From: mendo_recce@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us Subject: Digest for Mendo_Recce: 7/18/1995 Errors-To: owner-mendo_recce@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us Reply-To: mendo_recce@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us Precedence: bulk This is the digest for the mendo_recce Land Rover mailling list ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ From: BwanaE@aol.com Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 08:42:31 -0400 Cc: land-rover-owner@team.net ------------------------------------ Subject: Two Rovers for sale... NO !!! These aren't mine...( it's in my will that I'm to be buried strapped into my LWB, hands firmly gripping the wheel )... I came across these two this weekend, and promised a posting for the non-net owners. The usual dis-claimers apply... A) '73 Series III SWB. Howard Steele 916.346.2110 (Grass Valley) No other details on this one except that this owner paid $3500. three years ago, and now wants to sell. B) 73 SWB Lightweight (Airportable) Dave Bean 209.754.5802 day 209.754.1256 nite Overdrive, hardtop, spares, manuals. Color is RCAF blue. Vehicle is U.S. legal, has current Calif. registration. I've eyeballed this vehicle... seems in fair shape, but I cannot comment on the mechanicals. Owner wants $9,000 ( gulp! ), but it's been for sale for a while and will surely take less. Happy hunting, Eric. ------------------------------------ From: DANCSC@aol.com Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 10:25:25 -0400 Subject: Re: Danarosa's spelling(dale) dale, you said... > >Dan, hukd on fonex wurkd fer me and I'd have to say that's about the funniest thing I've seen all day! thanks! :-) Danarosa ------------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jul 95 08:14:26 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" B.@apple.com, Pool@apple.com, mendo_recce@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us ------------------------------------ Subject: Re: Split swivel seals In message <199507172227.PAA23107@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us> "John R. Benham" writes: > I did the ole `Kelloggian' trick on my 88 two years ago > Apparently it does work - both in TeriAnn's case and mine. Actually I learned this trick from Scotty. H'es evidently been doing it for years. TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com ------------------------------------ From: "John R. Benham" Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 09:09:29 +1100 Subject: A little help needed... Dear LRO's, Regular leaded gas will soon ceese to exist here in Washington. Because of this, I am forced to modify my engine head for unleaded gas. All of this creats a `cause and effect' spiral. Hence, while the head is off, should I mill it for an 8:1 C/R head? Although I only have 76K on the oddometer, should I give `Bwana" an `in vehicle' short block overhaul? I have a parts list, can you all suggest additions/deletions? I will FAX Merseyside later today for a quote. So here goes: HEAD: 4 stellite valves valve guides (all) valve seats (all) valve seals (all) Mill 0.10 off for 8:1 compression ratio I'm assuming the springs and intake valves will be in spec. I have a machine shop here in Spokane that can do the valve guide fly-cuts on the head once these parts arrive. ENGINE (in-vehicle short-block overhaul): rings .010 over rod bearings I hear that the piston bushings for the rods virtually never wear. The .010 over std. rings is so that I can hone the cylinder and can always file a little ring off to meet spec. GASKETS & SEALS: Head Oil sump pan Manifold Valve cover thermostat Bypass to thermostat rear main oil seal Anything else?? I'll let everyone know what Merseyside's quote is. Thanks, John R. Benham - Editor N.3616 Dowdy Road `The Rover Runner' Spokane, WA 99204 USA ______ |______\_____ 1968 88 IIA Marine Blue *--- [|_/-\____/-\_|} The `BWANA' Mobile *--- (O) (O) 509.747.0692 (H); 509.353.2700 (W); E-Mail: benham@wfoclan.usbm.gov ------------------------------------ From: Kelly Minnick Subject: Re: Next N. Cal Excursion???? Date: Tue, 18 Jul 95 10:13:46 PDT Good to see another RR on the board! Kelly Minnick ------------------------------------ From: Kelly Minnick Subject: Re: Fixing D90 winch induced spring sag Date: Tue, 18 Jul 95 10:16:16 PDT Do they not make the different springs with different K values for the D90? I know they do for the RR. Kelly Minnick ------------------------------------ From: Kelly Minnick Subject: Re: leaking swivel balls Date: Tue, 18 Jul 95 10:30:09 PDT Why go to all this 'short-cut'? All you have to do is drop the track rod (tie rod or whatever it is called in England), undo the brake line, 6 bolts around the knuckle and pull the whole thing out! While you are at it, replace the inner axle seal. Shoot, when I do mine, I usually drop the diff. and check the back lash on the ring and pinnion. The driven gears (opposite the spiders) have shims under them. There are three sizes available and they are only about $.50 ea. So, in about 3-4 hours time, you can re-set the ring to pinion, take the slop out of the spider, replace the inner axle seals and hub seals and probably won't have to repeat the process for a long time! This is my humble opinion. Kelly Minnick ------------------------------------ From: Kelly Minnick Subject: Re: leaking swivel balls Date: Tue, 18 Jul 95 10:32:51 PDT > > If it's like most seal springs, I think it's actually a long, straight coil > > spring which forms a circle by its two ends' hooking together. Roll it out > > of the back of seal, unhook the ends. After putting the seal in place, > > reach the spring around the axle, hook the two ends back together, roll it > > back into the back of the snapped-into-place-after-having-been-split seal > > (after having daubed the two cut-seal ends with silicone). > > > James > This is just how you have to put on the rear main seal on a series rover (at least pre-2.5L). The 2.5L has a 'normal' oil seal. Kelly Minnick ------------------------------------ From: Kelly Minnick Subject: Seal Springs Date: Tue, 18 Jul 95 10:37:18 PDT I've found that the easiest way to re-attach the little springs is to either buy some used dentist tools (or hobby store tools), or buy one of these small curved pick sets from Harbour Freight... Kelly Minnick ------------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jul 95 10:50:38 -0700 From: "TeriAnn Wakeman" Subject: Re: A little help needed... In message <199507181612.JAA15205@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us> writes: > Dear LRO's, > > Regular leaded gas will soon ceese to exist here in Washington. > Because of this, I am forced to modify my engine head for unleaded > gas. All of this creats a `cause and effect' spiral. Hence, while > the head is off, should I mill it for an 8:1 C/R head? Although I > only have 76K on the oddometer, should I give `Bwana" an `in > vehicle' short block overhaul? I have a parts list, can you all > suggest additions/deletions? I will FAX Merseyside later today for a > quote. So here goes: > Ah a classic case of ship fitter's disease if I ever saw one. A top end and a bottom end gasket set may be cheaper than purchasing individual gaskets. You might consider pulling the timing cover and replacing the chain & tensioner and the gears if they show any wear. Check your engine & transmission mounts. They are easy to replace and can come appart if they are worn. They are most apt to do so off road and the most likely result is the engine going slightly forward putting the fan into the radiator. It happened to Morgan a year or so ago. You also might want to have your distributer put onto a distributer machine to make sure the mechanical advance is working properly. Rumor has it a cam with the 2.5L LR profile provides better power to the engine, esp if used with a header & the 2 venturi Webber set up. I know this is herasy in the NorthWest but, there is always the marine version of the iron Duke. Twice the HP lighter weight, no modifications to frame or firewall, better petrol milage, cheaper more easily obtained parts. I mean if Rover can throw in a Buik V8 it seems that its OK to throw in a GM 4 cyl. TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling twakeman@apple.com ------------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 11:13:40 -0700 (PDT) From: Jim Russell Subject: Re: A little help needed... John B When I did my valves I went ahead and milled the head down to 8:1 specs as well as rebuilding it with stellite valves and such. I have had no regrets over it and can't think of many reasons not to do it other than for considerable sentimental attachment to the 7:1 ratio or having only really rotton fuel available. Interestingly enough, I was also going to do the rings and bottom end bearings but when it came right down to it, I didn't. Part of the problem was in overcomming the lip formed at the top end of the cylinder and the other part was that I needed to get the thing back on the road. Good luck! Jim Russell ==== jrussell@netcom.com (Seattle -- San Francisco) ------------------------------------ From: Kelly Minnick Subject: Re: A little help needed... Date: Tue, 18 Jul 95 11:24:40 PDT I have a Excel database on all kinds of parts for the series vehicles. Lower end bearings are cheap if you are going to do a short block. Pistons are about $20 ea with rings and wrist pins. Small rod bushes rarely wear out. Ring sets are $20. Most shop0s only charge about $10 a hole to bore. As far as the head, most places sell stainless valves and stellite seats. Seats are only needed on the exhaust. Here in the US, they are about $10 ea. Stainless valves are about $7-8. You may want to grind the casting ridges out of the head before assembly. My Turner 'high performance' head has had that done. Just need a good Dremel tool. Buy the bushings for the rockers and a new rocker shaft. They are almost always gone. Seems some Rover owners think 'Rover' means no maintenance. Some don't change there oil very often. With the old canister filters, the oil gets dirty faster and plugs the oil passages to the three upper rocker towers. If these plug, the rockers and valves will not get oil! I know Bob has planned his 7:1 head to get the 8:1. I don't think he has had any problems. The higher compression will shift the torque curve upward over the whole rpm range! I degreed the stock and the 2.5L cam if you want the data. Doesn't seem to be a great difference (that's not what I tell people when they ask, though). Actually, the 2.5L cam cost twice as much (about $150) I paid $65 for the 2.25L cam. I know most replace the whole tappet assembly. You could easily get away with replacing just the brass slider. If you do not replace the oil pump, at least buy all the new internals (two gears, ball, spring & plunger). There's probably a lot I'm forgetting, but that is a long-winded start! Kelly Minnick ------------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 11:48:38 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Subject: Re: A little help needed... John Benham writes: > Regular leaded gas will soon ceese to exist here in Washington. >Because of this, I am forced to modify my engine head for unleaded >gas. All of this creats a `cause and effect' spiral. Hence, while >the head is off, should I mill it for an 8:1 C/R head? Although I >only have 76K on the oddometer, should I give `Bwana" an `in >vehicle' short block overhaul? I'd suggest doing a dry, then a wet, compression test to see how things stand right now. If compression is pretty good and pretty consistent across the cylinders, if it runs satisfactorily now and isn't tending to overheat, I'd do nothing, for the time being. If it ain't broke: Don't fix it! From the collected wisdom of the big rovernet, I'm now convinced that there is no reason to summarily modify a head as soon as you start to run unleaded fuel. Nor to use lead substitute additives. Keep a sharp eye on running temperature and periodically recheck the compression. Once you have unacceptably low compression, especially if it starts seriously falling off on one cylinder, then you may be ready for the valve job. If the compression is too low but comes up to a more satisfactory level on the wet test, or it starts burning oil abnormally, then you are probably ready for rings. [sever] >I have a parts list, can you all suggest additions/deletions? I will FAX >Merseyside later today for a quote. So here goes: > >HEAD: > > 4 stellite valves > valve guides (all) > valve seats (all) > valve seals (all) > Mill 0.10 off for 8:1 compression ratio > > I'm assuming the springs and intake valves will be in spec. Don't assume that the valve springs will be in spec. IMHO, a better assumption is that they will not. I'd just plan on replacing all the valve springs. Incidentally, this just got much less expensive in the last year. The double springs are now superseded by single, progressively wound springs that cost less and are supposed to increase valve life by easing the valves closed more than slamming them as the double springs apparently did. You will also need 16 of the valve retainers (the little wedges that keep the valve spring caps in place. [sever] >I have a machine shop here in Spokane that can do the valve guide >fly-cuts on the head once these parts arrive. > >ENGINE (in-vehicle short-block overhaul): > > rings .010 over > rod bearings > > I hear that the piston bushings for the rods virtually never wear. >The .010 over std. rings is so that I can hone the cylinder and can >always file a little ring off to meet spec. File a ring??!! Say what? >GASKETS & SEALS: > > Head > Oil sump pan > Manifold > Valve cover > thermostat > Bypass to thermostat > rear main oil seal John is talking about doing this job in the vehicle. Has anyone on this list ever successfully replaced the Land-Rover 2.25-liter engine's rear main seal with the engine in the vehicle? It's supposed to be possible. Yeah, right. I tried and tried to do this on one of mine and found it quite unpossible!! Cheers, Granville ------------------------------------ From: Kelly Minnick Subject: Re: A little help needed... Date: Tue, 18 Jul 95 12:08:36 PDT > > rings .010 over > > rod bearings > > > > I hear that the piston bushings for the rods virtually never wear. > >The .010 over std. rings is so that I can hone the cylinder and can > >always file a little ring off to meet spec. > > File a ring??!! Say what? > This is a common thing for people who race cars/motorcycles, etc. They file for end gap clearance! > John is talking about doing this job in the vehicle. Has anyone on this > list ever successfully replaced the Land-Rover 2.25-liter engine's rear main > seal with the engine in the vehicle? It's supposed to be possible. Yeah, > right. I tried and tried to do this on one of mine and found it quite > unpossible!! > > Cheers, > > > Granville Granny- I've done it. Put the seal on with the crank out. Slip the spring on with one of those special spring tools I was talking about! It ain't fun, though. Shoot, you could bore the block in place, too. Friend has a portable boring bar that would mount on the top of the block! If there is a will, there is a way! Kelly Minnick ------------------------------------ From: UncleBrad@aol.com Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 15:47:30 -0400 Subject: wanted-turbo kit I have a friend, Eric Mills in Concord, California, who is looking for a turbo kit for his Land Rover engine. he has a Dormobile and would like to give it a little more pull on those grades. Got any ideas? ------------------------------------ Subject: Re: A little help needed... Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 12:57:42 -0700 From: Benjamin Allan Smith Granville wrote: > I'd suggest doing a dry, then a wet, compression test to see how things > stand right now. If compression is pretty good and pretty consistent across > the cylinders, if it runs satisfactorily now and isn't tending to overheat, > I'd do nothing, for the time being. I agree. > If it ain't broke: Don't fix it! From the collected wisdom of the big > rovernet, I'm now convinced that there is no reason to summarily modify a > head as soon as you start to run unleaded fuel. People's mileage varied. Those who lived in colder climates and didn't do all that much highway driving, didn't find any real problems. On the other hand, I had a head that was in good shape (I know, I had it off beforehand) show excessive wear in the valve guides (become oval) and valves in 30,000 miles. And of the mileage, there was about 5 cross country runs and a few 1000+ mile trips. (I thought the PO had installed Stellite valves and discovered otherwise 4 years later) > Nor to use lead substitute additives. I don't recall seeing any posts saying the the lead additives didn't work. I recall some people in places like Vermont saying that they didn't have any problems with out it. Two entirely different statements. Then again, my memory could be faulty. > You > will also need 16 of the valve retainers (the little wedges that keep the > valve spring caps in place. These don't usually wear and you can usually use the old ones So in the end drive it and see of the lack of lead effects you. Ben ------------------------------------ From: "John R. Benham" Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 13:06:17 +1100 Subject: Re: wanted-turbo kit > I have a friend, Eric Mills in Concord, California, who is looking for a > turbo kit for his Land Rover engine. he has a Dormobile and would like to > give it a little more pull on those grades. Got any ideas? Brad, Another rare Dormobile, eh?? The more I look at the turbine and air/exhaust ductwork on my SAAB 900T, the more I think it could be easily modified to the 2.25L Land Rover engine. I assume Eric has a diesel injection system? I'm sure Kelly M. could loan Eric his Turbo system out of his SAAB just to see how and if it could be modified to work... Hey, a little duct tape, bailing wire here and there... Seriously, maybe a visit to a SAAB shop or a wrecking yard is in order to see if there is an extra turbo lying around! Later, John R. Benham - Editor N.3616 Dowdy Road `The Rover Runner' Spokane, WA 99204 USA ______ |______\_____ 1968 88 IIA Marine Blue *--- [|_/-\____/-\_|} The `BWANA' Mobile *--- (O) (O) 509.747.0692 (H); 509.353.2700 (W); E-Mail: benham@wfoclan.usbm.gov ------------------------------------ From: BobandSueB@aol.com Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 16:46:04 -0400 Subject: Re: A little help needed... In a message dated 95-07-18 12:12:42 EDT, John Benham wrote: > I will FAX Merseyside later today for a >quote. So here goes: > >HEAD: > > 4 stellite valves > valve guides (all) > valve seats (all) > valve seals (all) > Mill 0.10 off for 8:1 compression ratio > Hi John, First of all I wouldn't go to all that work,expense until a valve job is needed. I only recently did mine because it was using oil , but the valves were still fine even though we don't have leaded in calif for some time now. Also I did the 0.10 mill to the head at that time. If you know your head hasn't been milled to clean it up during previous rebuilds, go for it. If you're not sure, then measure the head height which is 3.690 when new. Good luck, Bob Bernard ------------------------------------ From: BobandSueB@aol.com Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 16:56:36 -0400 Subject: Re: A little help needed... In a message dated 95-07-18 12:12:42 EDT, John Benham wrote: >Hence, while >the head is off, should I mill it for an 8:1 C/R head? Although I >only have 76K on the oddometer, should I give ` P.S. I noticed your B-wana is a 68. It's possible you have an 8-1 already according to some of the things I have read. If there is a raised boss top of the head half way back, behind the carb, It should be stamped 7 or 8. Supposedly this was offered since 67. I've only seen it since 1970. If you can look at a ser III head you will see the boss. My 69 had no boss. Bob Bernard ------------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 13:56:05 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Subject: Re: A little help needed... >> File a ring??!! Say what? >> > >This is a common thing for people who race cars/motorcycles, etc. They file >for end gap clearance! Duh, of course! I was picturing his trying to file the circumference! How embarrasing! >> John is talking about doing this job in the vehicle. Has anyone on this >> list ever successfully replaced the Land-Rover 2.25-liter engine's rear main >> seal with the engine in the vehicle? It's supposed to be possible. Yeah, >> right. I tried and tried to do this on one of mine and found it quite >> unpossible!! >Granny- >I've done it. Put the seal on with the crank out. Slip the spring on with one >of those special spring tools I was talking about! It ain't fun, though. >Shoot, you could bore the block in place, too. Friend has a portable boring >bar that would mount on the top of the block! If there is a will, there is >a way! >Kelly Minnick Oh, well, with the crank out I can see it. But what I'm talking about is without removing the crank; Dave Hudson says he can do it and I've heard of others' doing it (and it seems to me that the manual says you can do it). But I can't seem to do it. If I have to try again, I guess I'll take the crank out, at least part way. The problem, as I recall, was getting the seal to stuff up into its slot without its getting distorted and ruined. Granville ------------------------------------ From: "John R. Benham" mendo_recce@owens.ridgecrest.ca.us Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 14:03:06 +1100 Subject: Re: Distorted seals... Granville writes about real engine seals: > But I can't seem to do it. If I have to try again, I guess I'll take the > crank out, at least part way. The problem, as I recall, was getting the > seal to stuff up into its slot without its getting distorted and ruined. > > Granville > Granville, That's why they sell RTV Blue silicon! When in doubt, just gloop it to death! Later, John R. Benham - Editor N.3616 Dowdy Road `The Rover Runner' Spokane, WA 99204 USA ______ |______\_____ 1968 88 IIA Marine Blue *--- [|_/-\____/-\_|} The `BWANA' Mobile *--- (O) (O) 509.747.0692 (H); 509.353.2700 (W); E-Mail: benham@wfoclan.usbm.gov ------------------------------------ From: Kelly Minnick Subject: Re: wanted-turbo kit Date: Tue, 18 Jul 95 14:14:37 PDT Where is he going to dump all that heat? Why not a larger engine? With a turbo, he will have to put in lower compression pistons and probably a different crank. I guess he could put in one of those 185 HP 195 ft.lb SAAB engines... Kelly Minnick ------------------------------------ From: Kelly Minnick Subject: Re: A little help needed... Date: Tue, 18 Jul 95 14:23:56 PDT > Oh, well, with the crank out I can see it. But what I'm talking about is > without removing the crank; Dave Hudson says he can do it and I've heard of > others' doing it (and it seems to me that the manual says you can do it). > But I can't seem to do it. If I have to try again, I guess I'll take the > crank out, at least part way. The problem, as I recall, was getting the > seal to stuff up into its slot without its getting distorted and ruined. > > Granville > > I would loosen the mains and drop the crank about an inch. Seal should go on pretty easily then. The seal retainer in the rear would have to be removed. If this is done (the two moon-shaped halfs), it should be pretty easy to put the seal in. Just a thought... Kelly Minnick ------------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 15:16:52 -0700 From: growl@hsmpk14a-101.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) Subject: Re: A little help needed... > Has anyone on this > list ever successfully replaced the Land-Rover 2.25-liter engine's rear main > seal with the engine in the vehicle? > Granville I did it. The trans was out and the flywheel was off. I made the "special tool" from two pieces of aluminum angle about two inches long. Drill so they mount, one on each side, with the oil pan bolts, with the corner of the angle just alined with the edges of the bearing cap cut out. bend the top edges of the angle out so that as you push the bearing cap into postion, the "T" shaped rubber/cork seals get compressed into their channels. By the way... I believe that my rear main seal was killed by *SLICK 50*! Every seal in the engine began to leak within weeks after putting it in. R, bg ------------------------------------ From: DANCSC@aol.com Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 18:25:31 -0400 Subject: Re: saab story. kelly In a message dated 95-07-18 18:21:49 EDT,I wrote, > >hell, why don't you sell the Rover and buy a Saab?:-)!!! what I meant was... why doesn't HE sell the Rover and buy a Saab?... ah, it loses it's impact if you don't get it right the first time.. it sounded funny when I thought of it... danarosa ------------------------------------ From: DANCSC@aol.com Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 18:17:26 -0400 Subject: saab story. kelly kelly, you said.... >I guess he could put in one of those 185 HP 195 ft.lb >SAAB engines... >Kelly Minnick > > hell, why don't you sell the Rover and buy a Saab?:-)!!! Danarosa ------------------------------------ From: Kelly Minnick Subject: Re: saab story. kelly Date: Tue, 18 Jul 95 16:05:04 PDT > > kelly, you said.... > > >I guess he could put in one of those 185 HP 195 ft.lb > >SAAB engines... > >Kelly Minnick > > > > > > hell, why don't you sell the Rover and buy a Saab?:-)!!! > Danarosa > Hmm! I've already had 5. Yes, a little bit of a SAAB freak, too. I've had 2 series, 2 RR, 1 99, 4 -900's lets see... 35 or more motorcycles, and 15 or 20 various other cars/trucks... You could say it's a sickness... Kelly Minnick ------------------------------------ From: Kelly Minnick Subject: Re: saab story. kelly Date: Tue, 18 Jul 95 16:07:06 PDT Maybe we could build a 4wd SAAB. Couldn't be much worse than a Ford SHO Tarus... Or a full size van... Kelly Minnick ------------------------------------ From: DANCSC@aol.com Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 19:37:06 -0400 Subject: Saab stomps a mudhole in "BIgfoot's" ass. kelly says, {{{{{{{{{{{{{Maybe we could build a 4wd SAAB}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}}} the other day I was up in the geyser area, and I saw a pretty big mercedes, it was one stout 220! (I think it was a 220) two tone brown with like 35inch or so tires, looked to be on a jeepish chassis, I'd say a 4X4 saab would be just as acceptable, and hey, if you built it on a Rover chassis, you could have that turbo,and still have the respect of the left coast club, if you wrapped the dash in tin foil, you could probably pass it off as a metal dash series Rover. Danarosa ps. I hope no one takes offense to my "subject" line, I apologize in advance, but man that sounded funny to me (too many jack and gingers with lunch...)!!!! ------------------------------------ From: DANCSC@aol.com Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 19:26:35 -0400 Subject: kelly's been around the barn with all them "kaas"! kelly, you said... >You could say it's a sickness... sickness, I'd call that a... I can't think of anything, but boy, that's a lot of vehicles. I've got about 9 bicycles, but only one car... my faithful Rover. I couldn't imagine owning so many cars... My dream would be to have one brand new Rover, and own it for the rest of my days. living in a dream world, danarosa ------------------------------------ From: UncleBrad@aol.com Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 20:19:58 -0400 Subject: swivel balls I just thought I'd toss in the obvious... did you check to see that the swivel drain plug was tight? Also, the split seal trick was used by Scotty back in the '60s. He took the technique from the factory's use of a split rear crank seal. I don't think that Kellog was even out of diapers back then. See ya! Brad Blevins ------------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 17:47:00 -0700 From: gpool@pacific.pacific.net (Granville B. Pool) Subject: Re: saab story. kelly >Maybe we could build a 4wd SAAB. Couldn't be much worse than a Ford SHO >Tarus... Or a full size van... >Kelly Minnick Funny you should mention that, Kelly, because I've always been puzzled as to why a company in icy Sweden would not build AWD cars. In fact the 9000, which is essentially the same car as the Fiat Chroma and Lancia Delta (or some Lancia model--I may not have the model name right) and (I think) the Alfa 164. The Lancia version was slated to be developed into an AWD version with a Ferrari V-8 engine. I don't know whether or not it ever got that far. Granville ------------------------------------ Date: Tue, 18 Jul 1995 19:06:12 -0700 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: Re: A little levity You wrote: snip >I know this is herasy in the NorthWest but, there is always the marine version >of the iron Duke. Twice the HP lighter weight, no modifications to frame or >firewall, better petrol milage, cheaper more easily obtained parts. snip > >TeriAnn Wakeman .sig closed for remodeling >twakeman@apple.com > OOOOoooh! A marine engine! This ought to go real well with that Mantec Snorkel! Haruumbaa! Haruumbbaaa! DIVE! DIVE! DIVE! Or is this how people deal with rain in the NW? :) More seriously some photos "Scotty" gave me of the Iron Duke show a pretty clean installation. I've heard the engine is slightly shorter than the LR 2.25l (would this lead to minor radiator/fan change requirements for cooling?). The only major modification I've heard is required for this engine is for the manifolds (intake and exhaust); apparently custom manifolds are required. I could be out to lunch on this (so what else is new?). Morgan was looking into this a bit more seriously not long ago and might be able to fill in anyone interested. By the way I understand that there are 2 basic versions of this engine: the marine and the Iron Duke (true?). I've also heard that installation of marine engines in automobiles is generally not recommended due to the different power characteristics (false?). Of course one could always change the use of the "propellor" shaft! :) Cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------------ End of Digest