From: mendo_recce@off-road.com Subject: Digest for mendo_recce: 2/2/1997 Errors-To: owner-mendo_recce@off-road.com Reply-To: mendo_recce@off-road.com Precedence: bulk This is the digest for the mendo_recce mailling list ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ------------------------------------ From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard) Date: Sun, 2 Feb 1997 07:33:24 -0800 Subject: Re: Diana's Clutch Revisited >I have one more question on this before I start pulling the box >(God only knows when I'll find the time). Could a failed pilot >bushing/bearing cause the clutch release failure? It was >difficult to disengage a couple of times (repeated trys necessary) >then failed totally). > >cheers, > >Jeremy > I don't remember the original details, but the throwout/(release) bearing is more suspect, and the release arm apparently wears or breaks in the series 3's. S3 is designed like an american clutch, not like the earlier ones. But the sleeve on the throwout bearing is plastic and I've seen them break at the Black rock. Then I think the release arm can wear through at the pivot, or the pivot fails? This doesn't explain the oil,,,, but it's a Rover! Bob B ------------------------------------ From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard) Date: Sun, 2 Feb 1997 07:49:18 -0800 Subject: Re: new question >Ok, this is folks in addition to Bob Bernard, > >Stubby (the 88 PU) runs and drives great. However, at high rpms (don't >know how high, cuz I don't have a tac) the transfer case know vibrates and >makes enough noise to be a speed limiter 54 mph is about max before the >noise kicks in (no OD). I had a friend in stubby a while ago and he un- >intentionally had his foot on the lever; like that, I was cruising at 60 >and had no problems and no noise. > >What should I do? Anything? Adjust the nut on the transfer case lever? >Does this mean anything about the tranny or transfer case? > >cheers, > >PS Bob, thanks for the past responses and thanks for stubby, he's cool. > >jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us 1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis" > 1984 Mazda GLC "Mazda box" >dormobile homepage: 1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's) >http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html > > John, My best way to get rid of that vibration noise in Sherman was to disengage the front hubs and stop the front driveshaft from turning at speed. It makes a big difference. Since Stubs has no freewheelers, it's hard to prove unless you remove the front drive shaft to road test. Then that may justify the cost of hubs for stubs. I never got into the drive shafts on Stubby, but I believe the slip yoke joint was tight, Unless it was held tight by olden grease. So maybe exercising the thing and warming it up has brought out some looseness in the spline. Also check the phasing of the U-joints. Make sure the front and rear of each shaft are aligned with each other (in the same shaft only, not in both shafts at the same time) Bob B ------------------------------------ From: Jeremy John Bartlett Date: Sun, 02 Feb 1997 09:08:17 -0800 Subject: Re: Mystery leak Michael Slade (who cheats and uses SIII parts on a SIIA :) )wrote: > snip > I appreciate your explanation, and I'll remember it for when I put back the > original IIA transmission later this summer. However, I have a SIII tranny > in there now OK, my final guess is your front crankshaft seal ... :) cheers, Jeremy ------------------------------------ From: eric johnson Date: Sun, 02 Feb 1997 10:08:51 -0800 Subject: Re: Mystery leak Jeremy John Bartlett wrote: > > Michael Slade wrote: > > snip > > The 109 was parked backwards with the nose downhill > > Exactly... check the oil type. If it's 90w its the classic > leak out of the transmission. The SIIA transmission design > of the primary input shaft and seal is such that if parked facing > downhill oil will seap past the seal into the bellhousing and > out. The shaft has a spiral groove in it that "forces" oil > back into the transmission under load, and if the vehicle > is parked tail downhill the oil doesn't reach this point under > stationary conditions. ... but park it facing downhill on a > steep enough grade and presto voila. > > If it's engine oil it could be a number of things (front crank > seal... etc.), but I'll bet its transmission oil due to the downhill > orientation. > > cheers, > > Jeremy Dude, I got stuck facing downhill for about three hours. The clutch got enough oil on it that I had to replace the clutch plate. I hope you have better luck. Mine was a '69 IIA 88". Eric ------------------------------------ From: Michael Carradine Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2009 09:14:50 -0800 Subject: Re: new question At 10:14 PM 2/1/97 -0700, john hess wrote: :Stubby (the 88 PU) runs and drives great. However, at high rpms (don't :know how high, cuz I don't have a tac) the transfer case know vibrates and :makes enough noise to be a speed limiter 54 mph is about max before the :noise kicks in (no OD). I had a friend in stubby a while ago and he un- :intentionally had his foot on the lever; like that, I was cruising at 60 :and had no problems and no noise. Had the same sort of problem with my previous '72 Series III. I think it was harmonic vibration :) Anyway, pressing the lever either took up some lack and/or made the gears engage better and the noise and rattle went away. Then I though of putting a block from the lever to the seatbox or a strap to the firewall. I think I was just running the tractor at too high RPM. I changed to synthetic fluids and installed a Toro overdrive ... solved everything! ______ Michael Carradine [__[__\== 72-88, 89-RR Land Rovers Architect [________] www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html 510-988-0900 _______.._(o)__.(o)__..o^^ POBox 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 ------------------------------------ From: "Kevin P. Kelly" Date: Sun, 02 Feb 1997 11:09:33 -0800 Subject: '97 D90 at Hollister Rick Larson posted the URL to a J**p page with info on an on board air system . Now that I have my ISDN line It only takes a second to bring up a web page, so I thought I would check it out. The guy had a link to trip report at Hollister In the trip report after listing all the J**ps he wrote: Joe M. brought along his friend Nancy, who was itching to try out her new 1997 Land Rover Defender 90(number 47 built for 1997). She had never been off-roading before, and was anxious to see what her new toy could do. He has some photos of the D90 also. Kevin Kelly **Notice new e-mail address** ------------------------------------ From: Michael Slade Date: Sun, 2 Feb 1997 13:02:09 -0800 Subject: Re: Mystery leak >Michael Slade (who cheats and uses SIII parts on a SIIA :) )wrote: >> snip >> I appreciate your explanation, and I'll remember it for when I put back the >> original IIA transmission later this summer. However, I have a SIII tranny >> in there now > >OK, my final guess is your front crankshaft seal ... :) > >cheers, > >Jeremy So, is that something that I can replace in an afternoon? Thanks, Michael ------------------------------------ From: davery@on-ramp.ior.com (Dale W. Avery) Date: Sun, 2 Feb 97 15:45:25 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Dealer Service >I have had good luck with the parts dept. of R.A.B. I was dating a girl >in San Rafael a couple years ago and I was pleasantly surprised when one >of the parts guys mailed me a couple plastic parts for free with a note >that said "sorry we did not have them in stock when you came by". > >Kevin Kelly > So what's the connection between the girl and the plastic parts??? ;-) Is this perchance why you are no longer dating her?? ----- Dale W. Avery KC7MM & Ms Daisy '73-SIII-88" "No matter where you go, there you are." ------------------------------------ From: "Alan DuBoff" Date: Mon, 03 Feb 97 04:37:57 -0700 Subject: Re: Range Rover Cold Starting On Sat, 1 Feb 1997 11:58:51 -0800 (PST), Walter C. Swain wrote: >I ordered from BP, and it wasn't cheap. Came in a Genuine LR parts box, >~$45. Turned out to be a Bosch, as expected. Ouch! That is outrageous Walt! When me and Paul diagnosed his rangies relay, we were able to find them for less than $10. In fact, I bought 2 of them for spares, and they are just over $9 each. We got them at Quality Imports on Saratoga Ave. in San Jose, just south of the 280. Alan DuBoff Software Orchestration, Inc. aland@ibm.net ------------------------------------ From: Chris Dow Date: Sun, 02 Feb 1997 17:33:52 -0800 Subject: My beast is on blocks Well, actually, it's on jack stands... A friend and I had planned for some time to put the new shoes and brake springs on my IIA, and rebuild the wheel cylinders with the kits I have (oddly, although I've never purchased a wheel cylinder rebuild kit, I have enough of them to do three cars!). Today was the day, but he wasn't coming over until 11:00, so I set out to tie up a few loose ends before he arrived. I managed to get the turning indicators working for the first time since the Great Fire of 1996. This was funny: when I first set out to renew the wiring harness, I simply connected up wires by color. In my web page, I state that this is bad, as it can make debugging difficult later. I should have listened to my own advice. One of the turning indicator wires is green/white, and the oil pressure warning light is green/yellow (do you see where I'm going?). After 32 years, the green/white turning indicator wire which runs to the rear looks an awful lot like a green/yellow wire! I had hooked up the oil pressure warning light to the turning indicator. Now I have a working oil pressure warning light (NBD, really, as I have a good mechanical oil pressure guage), and working turning indicators. I also have what should be a functional cold start warning light (won't know this until I can run it for a while with the choke on). I used bullet connectors on the part of the switch that the choke cable runs through, as the screws have been lost sometime in the dark past. Anyway, my friend arrived at about 11:45 (got stuck behind the wreck on 85) and we started in on the brakes. What a mess. We barely touched the left-front wheel cylinder seal and it squirted brake fluid. I then pressed on the pedal and fluid squirted all over the place. I got out the rebuild kits and we looked at them. The parts weren't anywhere near the right size. Now, this kit had come from British Northwest (my stepfather had purchased them for his '62 IIA, but never used them), so I went to one of the boxes with a Rovers North sticker (these kits had come with the car), and opened it up. It was the same as the BNW kit, so I became somewhat puzzled. We then removed the wheel cylinder, and had a look. It wasn't Girling, as I expected, but rather claimed to be made by Villar. I've never heard of them, and I'm pretty sure Rovers are supposed to have Girling wheel cylinders. Also, all the drums are orignal, and inspection showed that they would be quite thin after turning, so I'm now looking at four new drums. Given that the drums have to be replaced ($320.00), and the wheel cylinders are of questionable (?) origin, I think I'll just get the kit that Atlantic British is advertizing (drums, shoes, brake springs, wheel cylinders & adjuster cams for 4 wheels for $399.00)--unless Steve can come close to that price :-). So, my Rover shall remain on jack stands for the next week. I did, however, drive it four out of five days the week before last, and all five days last week. I sure am glad, however, that I found out about the sorry state of the cylinders in my carport rather than on the highway. Once I'd bagged the brakes and my friend left, I decided to have a go at the speedo cable, and managed to get it in. So, when I'm next on the road, I'll know how well that Webber is working. One tip here, though, is to be sure and use something (I used a tie wrap) to keep the speedo cable away from the exaust pipe. I didn't have the outer PVC sheath on my old one in that area, and I hypothesize that is the reason. One more thing: I have 3/8" to 1/2" (not sure exactly) holes in the front and on the right-hand side of my transmission. They look like they should have bolts in them, but don't. Not suprisingly, they are right above two decent-sized puddles of 90-wt. If someone doesn't mind crawling under their Rover and telling me if they have those holes, I'd appreciate it. C Who's back in his 4WD Station Wagon--Tercel, that is! :-( ------------------------------------ From: "Candido Gomez" Date: Mon, 3 Feb 97 02:19:04 UT Subject: RE: My beast is on blocks Hey Chris, Just turned 192,000 miles on my 83 Tercel. Right front CV boot going out, lost 5th gear, and I need to smog her this yearr. Somehow I'm unable to replicate the Tercel into D-90. Cheers, Dino 95 5 speed Disco, Tallyho ---------- From: Chris Dow Sent: 02 February, 1997 5:33 PM To: mendo_recce Subject: My beast is on blocks Well, actually, it's on jack stands... A friend and I had planned for some time to put the new shoes and brake springs on my IIA, and rebuild the wheel cylinders with the kits I have (oddly, although I've never purchased a wheel cylinder rebuild kit, I have enough of them to do three cars!). Today was the day, but he wasn't coming over until 11:00, so I set out to tie up a few loose ends before he arrived. I managed to get the turning indicators working for the first time since the Great Fire of 1996. This was funny: when I first set out to renew the wiring harness, I simply connected up wires by color. In my web page, I state that this is bad, as it can make debugging difficult later. I should have listened to my own advice. One of the turning indicator wires is green/white, and the oil pressure warning light is green/yellow (do you see where I'm going?). After 32 years, the green/white turning indicator wire which runs to the rear looks an awful lot like a green/yellow wire! I had hooked up the oil pressure warning light to the turning indicator. Now I have a working oil pressure warning light (NBD, really, as I have a good mechanical oil pressure guage), and working turning indicators. I also have what should be a functional cold start warning light (won't know this until I can run it for a while with the choke on). I used bullet connectors on the part of the switch that the choke cable runs through, as the screws have been lost sometime in the dark past. Anyway, my friend arrived at about 11:45 (got stuck behind the wreck on 85) and we started in on the brakes. What a mess. We barely touched the left-front wheel cylinder seal and it squirted brake fluid. I then pressed on the pedal and fluid squirted all over the place. I got out the rebuild kits and we looked at them. The parts weren't anywhere near the right size. Now, this kit had come from British Northwest (my stepfather had purchased them for his '62 IIA, but never used them), so I went to one of the boxes with a Rovers North sticker (these kits had come with the car), and opened it up. It was the same as the BNW kit, so I became somewhat puzzled. We then removed the wheel cylinder, and had a look. It wasn't Girling, as I expected, but rather claimed to be made by Villar. I've never heard of them, and I'm pretty sure Rovers are supposed to have Girling wheel cylinders. Also, all the drums are orignal, and inspection showed that they would be quite thin after turning, so I'm now looking at four new drums. Given that the drums have to be replaced ($320.00), and the wheel cylinders are of questionable (?) origin, I think I'll just get the kit that Atlantic British is advertizing (drums, shoes, brake springs, wheel cylinders & adjuster cams for 4 wheels for $399.00)--unless Steve can come close to that price :-). So, my Rover shall remain on jack stands for the next week. I did, however, drive it four out of five days the week before last, and all five days last week. I sure am glad, however, that I found out about the sorry state of the cylinders in my carport rather than on the highway. Once I'd bagged the brakes and my friend left, I decided to have a go at the speedo cable, and managed to get it in. So, when I'm next on the road, I'll know how well that Webber is working. One tip here, though, is to be sure and use something (I used a tie wrap) to keep the speedo cable away from the exaust pipe. I didn't have the outer PVC sheath on my old one in that area, and I hypothesize that is the reason. One more thing: I have 3/8" to 1/2" (not sure exactly) holes in the front and on the right-hand side of my transmission. They look like they should have bolts in them, but don't. Not suprisingly, they are right above two decent-sized puddles of 90-wt. If someone doesn't mind crawling under their Rover and telling me if they have those holes, I'd appreciate it. C Who's back in his 4WD Station Wagon--Tercel, that is! :-( ------------------------------------ From: twakeman@scruznet.com (TeriAnn Wakeman) Date: Sun, 2 Feb 1997 18:33:28 -0800 Subject: Re: new question At 10:14 PM 2/1/97 -0700, john hess wrote: > I had a friend in stubby a while ago and he un- >intentionally had his foot on the lever; like that, I was cruising at 60 >and had no problems and no noise. > >What should I do? Anything? Adjust the nut on the transfer case lever? >Does this mean anything about the tranny or transfer case? John, there is a little anti rattle spring on the ball part of the shaft ( BP part # 243714). You might check to see if its still there. TeriAnn twakeman@scruznet.com ------------------------------------ From: Chris Dow Date: Sun, 02 Feb 1997 21:18:38 -0800 Subject: Re: My beast is on blocks Bob and Sue Bernard wrote: 8< > The rear and front cylinder bore diameters are different, so see if the > cylinders in the other boxes are also too small. 9< > You can get your drums measured at a machine shop for size. they may be > grooved too deeply however. If you haven't done brakes much or at all, It > might be best to get them checked before tossing them. This is an 88 right? > 88 should be 10" standard and up to .030 maximum can be turned. 8< > Villar sounds like a brand I've seen and if it's from rovers North, It'll > just be made out of gold instead of Aluminum. > Of course the BNW ones would be just gold plated and tarnished. :>) 8< The drums were worn down about 1/8", so I'm sure they're well past gone. The kits were wheel cylinder rebuild kits, not wheel cylinders themselves, though the Chuck humor is much appreciated. BNW was the only parts place my poor (well, he wasn't poor before he found them--he's a lawyer) stepfather ever found. In fact, they are the reason he sold his Rover--the parts cost too much. When he looked through my catalogs, he was shocked. He's now back in the market for a Series Rover, much to my mother's chagrin. > About the holes in the tranny, > There are 9-10 in a circle to hold the tranny to the engine, but something > is in my memory about two other holes. > What year/model is yours? > On the right bottom is two holes that the hi-lo shifter mounts to. Here's a 'diagram' of where the holes are: Front +------first hole v +------------+ | | | | | | | |<- second hole | | | | +------------+ These are just above the bottom of the tranny. > > I can look at a 74 S111 on the floor, and a 65 s11A 88 in the truck in the AM. I have a '65 IIA. Thanks, C ------------------------------------ From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard) Date: Sun, 2 Feb 1997 21:03:41 -0800 Subject: Re: My beast is on blocks Chris said: >Well, actually, it's on jack stands... > >Anyway, my friend arrived at about 11:45 (got stuck behind the wreck on 85) and we started in >on the brakes. What a mess. We barely touched the left-front wheel cylinder seal and it >squirted brake fluid. I then pressed on the pedal and fluid squirted all over the place. I >got out the rebuild kits and we looked at them. The parts weren't anywhere near the right >size. Now, this kit had come from British Northwest (my stepfather had purchased them for his HI, When a drum is off don't step on the pedal as the things and stuff will pop out along with the fluid. Be careful about getting the fluid in your eyes. It will burn.!! The rear and front cylinder bore diameters are different, so see if the cylinders in the other boxes are also too small. You can get your drums measured at a machine shop for size. they may be grooved too deeply however. If you haven't done brakes much or at all, It might be best to get them checked before tossing them. This is an 88 right? 88 should be 10" standard and up to .030 maximum can be turned. >'62 IIA, but never used them), so I went to one of the boxes with a Rovers North sticker >(these kits had come with the car), and opened it up. It was the same as the BNW kit, so I >became somewhat puzzled. We then removed the wheel cylinder, and had a look. It wasn't >Girling, as I expected, but rather claimed to be made by Villar. I've never heard of them, Villar sounds like a brand I've seen and if it's from rovers North, It'll just be made out of gold instead of Aluminum. Of course the BNW ones would be just gold plated and tarnished. :>) About the holes in the tranny, There are 9-10 in a circle to hold the tranny to the engine, but something is in my memory about two other holes. What year/model is yours? On the right bottom is two holes that the hi-lo shifter mounts to. I can look at a 74 S111 on the floor, and a 65 s11A 88 in the truck in the AM. Bob B >and I'm pretty sure Rovers are supposed to have Girling wheel cylinders. Also, >all the drums >are orignal, and inspection showed that they would be quite thin after turning, so I'm now >One more thing: I have 3/8" to 1/2" (not sure exactly) holes in the front and on the >right-hand side of my transmission. They look like they should have bolts in them, but don't. > Not suprisingly, they are right above two decent-sized puddles of 90-wt. If someone doesn't >mind crawling under their Rover and telling me if they have those holes, I'd appreciate it. > >C >Who's back in his 4WD Station Wagon--Tercel, that is! :-( > ------------------------------------ From: Chris Dow Date: Sun, 02 Feb 1997 21:19:46 -0800 Subject: Re: My beast is on blocks > Villar sounds like a brand I've seen and if it's from rovers North, It'll > just be made out of gold instead of Aluminum. > Of course the BNW ones would be just gold plated and tarnished. :>) Oh, yeah, Villar was the name of the cylinders that were on the truck. C ------------------------------------ From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard) Date: Sun, 2 Feb 1997 21:03:39 -0800 Subject: Re: new question >At 10:14 PM 2/1/97 -0700, john hess wrote: >> I had a friend in stubby a while ago and he un- >>intentionally had his foot on the lever; like that, I was cruising at 60 >>and had no problems and no noise. >> >>What should I do? Anything? Adjust the nut on the transfer case lever? >>Does this mean anything about the tranny or transfer case? > > >John, there is a little anti rattle spring on the ball part of the shaft ( >BP part # 243714). You might check to see if its still there. > >TeriAnn > >twakeman@scruznet.com > Real good point TeriAnn, But I put a new one in. Of course it could fall out, but not usually once its together. Bob B ------------------------------------ End of Digest