From: mendo_recce@off-road.com
Subject: Digest for mendo_recce:  2/1/1997
Errors-To: owner-mendo_recce@off-road.com
Reply-To: mendo_recce@off-road.com
Precedence: bulk


This is the digest for the mendo_recce mailling list
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



------------------------------------
From: "Alan DuBoff" <aland@ibm.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Feb 97 07:24:30 -0700
Subject: Re: RAB


On Fri, 31 Jan 1997 17:06:53 -0500, Mehdi.Saghafi.B@bayer.com wrote:

>When I bought my car it was 3 yr. old and 23,000 miles. No warranty.
>Within a 3000 mile I developed a pinion seal and a front swile housing gasket
>leak behind the breaks.  The gave me 1/2 warranty. at 36000 I had another leak
>at the right hand swile housing around the ball.  I got another 1/2.    They
>have been faire with me.  The shop guy Mark has given me tips and tads when
>I've been there.

Even if your paying 1/2 the price, your probably still over paying by
about 2 or 3 times...<G>

I read Scott's story about RAB and laughed, it reminded me of one time
I had my truck at LRSJ. In fact, I have not heard anything good about
the dealers in the SF Bay area of California, with the exception of
Cole up in Walnut Creek, people seem happy there.

It's kind of a shame, there are a lot of 'rovers up here, and I often
see comments on how we are spoiled with 4 or 5 dealers so close
together, but we need that many to get just one good one, and even then
the majority of us can't find *IT*...(or can't get to it easily).

Alan DuBoff
Software Orchestration, Inc.
aland@ibm.net




------------------------------------
From: Jeremy John Bartlett <Sbartlett@slip.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Feb 1997 11:12:58 -0800
Subject: Non LR Hummer Honesty in Advertising


I just came across a 2 page Hummer ad. in the Economist.
Finally it contains a bit of honesty in advertising.  The
ad is basically a 2 page spread of the front of a white
Hummer heading down a downtown street.  The large text reads:

"You are Invincible
You are All-Powerful
You are Unstoppable    (I wonder what that says about brakes :))
You are on Your Way to the Grocery Store"

cheers,

Jeremy


------------------------------------
From: "Walter C. Swain" <wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us>
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 1997 11:58:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Range Rover Cold Starting


On Sat, 1 Feb 1997 KKelly6788@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 97-01-27 12:27:20 EST, you write:
> 
> >I replaced both relays on the fuel system, located under the front
> >passenger's seat. 
> 
> Where did you buy the relays?  I am thinking about picking up a couple and
> keeping mine as spares.  I have heard that they are not very expensive.

Hi Kevin,

I ordered from BP, and it wasn't cheap.  Came in a Genuine LR parts box,
~$45. Turned out to be a Bosch, as expected.  I'd ordered two relays (fuel
pump and fuel injectors) from BP, and when the second one didn't arrive, I
called and talked to Steve.  Turned out that they hadn't been able to
figure out the designation for the second, so didn't send anything. I had
the factory manual at work, and so with it and their parts manual we were
able to ID the second: same as the first.  Bosch part # 0332 014 112, 12V
30A.  I went to the local semi-professional parts place (Southern Auto
Parts, I think) and they had a problem looking it up from the Range Rover
entries, but one of their more experienced guys knew how to get it as a
Bosch part. It was more complicated than it should have been. But I did
get it the same day, finally.  Cost:  ~$15.  This all on the day before
taking off for T-Day in Seattle. 

Later I called BP and filled them in on what I'd found, and asked if they
are stocking the Bosch relays as OEM parts.  It turned out they they've
just started getting orders from RR owners like us, and haven't worked out
the match between LR parts and the OEMs.  Steve mentioned that they'd like
to get a well worn 88 or 89 and tear it down for a thorough evaluation of
OEM part suppliers.  Sooner the better.

Obviously, we could also go through our own vehicles and ID the OEMs of
many of these parts and go the local supplier route whan it's feasible.
I looked at some of the other relays (there seem to be dozens of them)
and quite a few are Lucas.  Bad luck.

> P.S. Do you carry a spare coil?  I have met a lot of long term LR overs that
> would not leave home without one.

Not yet, but I expect I will.

BTW, I now have a set of Gates belts on mine.  I think Kelly Minnick
mentioned that he uses them.  I ought to get the part numbers ID'd for
future reference as well.  Is somebody already keeping a substitute/OEM
parts list? 

Rgds,

Walt          * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * 
              * Walter C. Swain         | wcswain@dcn.davis.ca.us       *
              * Davis Community Network | 1969 LR Dormobile- "Bertha"   *
              * Davis, California       | 1988 Range Rover- "Lady Jane" *
              * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *



------------------------------------
From: Jeremy John Bartlett <Sbartlett@slip.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Feb 1997 14:13:04 -0800
Subject: Diana's Clutch Revisited


Several (three/four?) weeks ago I posted about a failed clutch
in an '83 RR (Diana).  The clutch will not disengage and but
the transmission will shift and there is an oil leak from the 
seal/pump from the gearbox to the bellhousing.  The hydraulics
check out OK.

I have one more question on this before I start pulling the box
(God only knows when I'll find the time).  Could a failed pilot
bushing/bearing cause the clutch release failure?  It was 
difficult to disengage a couple of times (repeated trys necessary)
then failed totally).

cheers,

Jeremy


------------------------------------
From: davery@on-ramp.ior.com (Dale W. Avery)
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 97 13:13:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: go/no-go fealer gauge??


>Dale says
>>Almost every valve was also tight.  I took JohnO's suggestion and got a
>>go-no go guage and that really makes a difference compared to the others I
>>have used in the past.  It really lets you know if you're on the money.
>What the heck is a go/no-go fealer gauge??
>I have never heard of such a tool.
>Paul
>
>Paul Archibald

Paul, sorry for taking so long to get back to you on this.  A go-no go guage
is very similar to the set of blade guages you are probably using now.
Here's the difference; the .010" guage is made from .012" guage stock that
has had the first ~1/2" of the blade machined down to .010".  In use, the
valve clearance is right when you can easily slip in the .010" front of the
blade, but cannot slip the rear .012" segment through.  The .010" "goes",
and the .012" is a "no-go".   Does that make sense, or should I give it
another try?

Dale
-----
    Dale W. Avery KC7MM & Ms Daisy '73-SIII-88"
    "No matter where you go, there you are." 



------------------------------------
From: "Rick Larson" <rlarson@vineyard.mti.sgi.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 1997 13:39:55 -0800
Subject: Re: On Board Air


I believe Ready Air starts with a York compressor.  They then machine
(or replace) the head to provide greater air volume.  My understanding,
without really knowing the details, is that their modifications to the
York unit limit its rpm range.  Obviously, a un-modified York has
no problems running across engine RPM ranges as it was designed as
an auto air conditioning compressor.  I would be interested in understanding
all the tradeoff's involved.  I know a couple people who run straight
Yorks with no problems.  (Airtools too.)    I suspect the trade off
is at what RPM the compressor puts out max volume.  If one
wants Ready Air volume out of the York Compressor they may need to run at
a higher RPM?  A hand throttle might be nice.   I'm going to have
Greg at SG make me some brackets. (Maybe next week if I can find
some time to think about what I want.  I'll probably pick up a new
York.)  They will than be available through him.  If I can't get to
it Monday, it will probably be 6 months......

-Rick



n Feb 1,  2:23pm, Jeremy John Bartlett wrote:
> Subject: Re: On Board Air
> Rick Larson wrote:
> >
> > To: Doug M and any one else interested in real on-board air:
> >
> > A very good little web site on this guys Jeep.
> > Check out the $150 on board, engine driven, air system
> > he put together.  A friend knows I'm interesting in
> > putting a system togther for the D90 and forwarded this
> > to me from the off-road list.
> >
> > http://www.ftn.net/~jon/jeep
>
> Interesting piece of work.  The fellow seems to have the compressor
> set to automatically engage if psi goes below 95 (maybe I missed
> something).  This interested me because Ready Air recommends their
> compressor only be run/engaged at idle (800-1000 rpm).
> You're doubltess familiar with Spot's Ready Air set up.
> I'm starting in on installing a Ready Air unit myself.
> Looks comparable, although the cost is significantly higher (new parts).
> However, there's a trade off in that Ready Air has brackets fashioned for
> the D90 (with or without air conditioning).
>
> For anyone interested the contact is:
>
> Therold Industries
> 500 E 7th St. Holtvilee, CA  92250
> tel. 619-356-4515
>
> cost runs close to $800.
>
> As I recall the fellow to talk to is Harold (?) last name??
>
> cheers,
>
> Jeremy
>-- End of excerpt from Jeremy John Bartlett




------------------------------------
From: Jeremy John Bartlett <Sbartlett@slip.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Feb 1997 14:23:55 -0800
Subject: Re: On Board Air


Rick Larson wrote:
> 
> To: Doug M and any one else interested in real on-board air:
> 
> A very good little web site on this guys Jeep.
> Check out the $150 on board, engine driven, air system
> he put together.  A friend knows I'm interesting in
> putting a system togther for the D90 and forwarded this
> to me from the off-road list.
> 
> http://www.ftn.net/~jon/jeep

Interesting piece of work.  The fellow seems to have the compressor
set to automatically engage if psi goes below 95 (maybe I missed 
something).  This interested me because Ready Air recommends their
compressor only be run/engaged at idle (800-1000 rpm). 
You're doubltess familiar with Spot's Ready Air set up.  
I'm starting in on installing a Ready Air unit myself.
Looks comparable, although the cost is significantly higher (new parts).
However, there's a trade off in that Ready Air has brackets fashioned for
the D90 (with or without air conditioning).

For anyone interested the contact is:

Therold Industries
500 E 7th St. Holtvilee, CA  92250
tel. 619-356-4515

cost runs close to $800.

As I recall the fellow to talk to is Harold (?) last name??

cheers,

Jeremy


------------------------------------
From: tbwill <tbwill@interserv.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 97 17:57:27 -0800
Subject: Range Rover Purchase


Thanks to all of you who responded to my request last week concerning the 
purchase of a used Range Rover. After looking at the vehicle again today 
in better light, it was apparent that it had seen some hard use. Most of 
the interior trim had problems such as cracks or broken pieces. The 
exterior looked ok although it appeared no one ever bothered waxing the 
roof. The vehicle was parked in a different location and had a definite 
list to the right side, so it looks like it was due for new springs. It 
did run ok, but it just had that appearance of having hard use. So for 
now, I'll keep my driving my Disco and see what happens. Thanks again for 
all the responses, I've saved all the information for future use.

Tom Williams
Fresno, CA
tbwill@interserv.com


------------------------------------
From: eric johnson <cplej@sjm.infi.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Feb 1997 20:29:00 -0800
Subject: Torque Values


Hello all,
Anyone know of any torque values for the U-Bolt nuts for the axels? Also 
are there any values for the nuts that tighten the hub spindle to the 
axel case?

Thanks, Eric


------------------------------------
From: Michael Slade <Slade@imagina.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 1997 20:40:38 -0800
Subject: Mystery leak


All,

My 109 is leaking from the front of the engine in a spot I hadn't noticed
before today.  Normally it sits with it's nose slightly elevated as the
driveway is not level.  today when I went to open the gate and walked back
toward the car I looked underneath to check for any unusual or new leaks.
I guess I was looking for trouble.

The 109 was parked backwards with the nose downhill overnight and there was
a sizeable (read: more than 4 or 5 drops) puddle underneath the front of
the engine.  I had a tie on and was in no opprotunity to crawl underneath
and check it out.

Does the 2.25 leak differently depending on how it's parked?  Is there a
front main seal that can go bad (sorry I'm not so knowledgable about engine
construction)?

It's just got me thinking....

Later,

Michael




------------------------------------
From: "Kevin P. Kelly" <kkelly6788@earthlink.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Feb 1997 20:59:39 -0800
Subject: Dealer Service


>>I recommend RAB.   They are very good at giving appointments.  Good service
>>also.  No attitude like those damn SJLR people.
>>Also their head technician took second place in all LR tech. in US and is going
>>to England for recognition.

>Whoa!  This wasn't my experience at all.  They needed to replace my
>windshield washer pump under warranty (the PO had replaced it four
>months earlier).  I could not do the install myself, as this would void
>the warranty. 

I have found over the years that the dealers treat people differently
depending on what they drive and how much they spend at the dealership.
It seems like a guy that buys a new Range Rover every two years and has
all his maintenance done at the dealer always gets top priority when a
poor kid with a '89 or '90 Range Rover (it seems funny putting "poor
kid" and "Range Rover" in the same sentance) that does his own
maintenance is treated just a little better than a homelwss guy that
wanders on to the dealers lot (but still better than a 2002 owner at a
BMW dealership).  

I have had good luck with the parts dept. of R.A.B.  I was dating a girl
in San Rafael a couple years ago and I was pleasantly surprised when one
of the parts guys mailed me a couple plastic parts for free with a note
that said "sorry we did not have them in stock when you came by".

Kevin Kelly


------------------------------------
From: Benjamin Allan Smith (Pencom) <bens@smtp.scs.philips.com>
Date: Sat, 01 Feb 1997 21:17:48 -0800
Subject: Large Emails and/or binaries


	Before anyone complains, I just notices a 660k email that was
sent to the list (it was either an encoded enclosure or photo).  Since many
subscribers of this list are on slow links, I killed that message out of
sendmail's queue so only some of the realtime people should have gotten it.
(how many I don't know).  Digest people should not get that message.

	In the future please refrain from posting photos or really long
enclosures to the list.   (by long I mean more than 50kbytes).

Ben


------------------------------------
From: Jeremy John Bartlett <Sbartlett@slip.net>
Date: Sat, 01 Feb 1997 22:35:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Mystery leak


Michael Slade wrote:
> snip
> The 109 was parked backwards with the nose downhill 

Exactly... check the oil type.  If it's 90w its the classic
leak out of the transmission.  The SIIA transmission design
of the primary input shaft and seal is such that if parked facing
downhill oil will seap past the seal into the bellhousing and 
out.  The shaft has a spiral groove in it that "forces" oil
back into the transmission under load, and if the vehicle
is parked tail downhill the oil doesn't reach this point under
stationary conditions. ... but park it facing downhill on a 
steep enough grade and presto voila. 

If it's engine oil it could be a number of things (front crank
seal... etc.), but I'll bet its transmission oil due to the downhill
orientation.

cheers,

Jeremy


------------------------------------
From: john hess <jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 1997 21:58:52 -0700
Subject: disco for sale, hi miles, low price


For ben and others,

from the sac bee:  Land Rover '94 discovery, black, 50K, loaded, $20,000,
Great Shape! 916 351 9809

also, rangie '91 county, loaded exc cond $16,999 (209)838 8076

rangie, '88 clean high miles $10,500 916 983 3722
rangie '88, loaded, exc cond $10,988 916 966 2743


jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us      1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis"
                                  1984 Mazda GLC "Mazda box"
dormobile homepage:               1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's)
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html




------------------------------------
From: BajaRover@aol.com
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 1997 23:32:21 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: MiniDigest part 1/1 for mendo_recce: 2/1/1997




------------------------------------
From: john hess <jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 1997 22:23:10 -0700
Subject: Re: Large Emails and/or binaries


>	Before anyone complains, I just notices a 660k email that was
>sent to the list (it was either an encoded enclosure or photo).  Since many
>subscribers of this list are on slow links, I killed that message out of
>sendmail's queue so only some of the realtime people should have gotten it.
>(how many I don't know).  Digest people should not get that message.
>
>	In the future please refrain from posting photos or really long
>enclosures to the list.   (by long I mean more than 50kbytes).
>
>Ben

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH,

I got your email BEFORE the dreaded huge stupid enclosure.

Thanks for doing your best.


jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us      1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis"
                                  1984 Mazda GLC "Mazda box"
dormobile homepage:               1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's)
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html




------------------------------------
From: john hess <jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us>
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 1997 22:14:01 -0700
Subject: new question 


Ok, this is folks in addition to Bob Bernard,

Stubby (the 88 PU) runs and drives great.  However, at high rpms (don't
know how high, cuz I don't have a tac) the transfer case know vibrates and
makes enough noise to be a speed limiter 54 mph is about max before the
noise kicks in (no OD).  I had a friend in stubby a while ago and he un-
intentionally had his foot on the lever;  like that, I was cruising at 60
and had no problems and no noise.

What should I do?  Anything?  Adjust the nut on the transfer case lever?
Does this mean anything about the tranny or transfer case?

cheers,

PS Bob, thanks for the past responses and thanks for stubby, he's cool.

jfhess@wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us      1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis"
                                  1984 Mazda GLC "Mazda box"
dormobile homepage:               1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's)
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html




------------------------------------
From: davery@on-ramp.ior.com (Dale W. Avery)
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 97 22:31:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Dealer Service



>I have had good luck with the parts dept. of R.A.B.  I was dating a girl
>in San Rafael a couple years ago and I was pleasantly surprised when one
>of the parts guys mailed me a couple plastic parts for free with a note
>that said "sorry we did not have them in stock when you came by".
>
>Kevin Kelly
>
So what's the connection between the girl and the plastic parts??? ;-)  Is
this perchance why you are no longer dating her??
-----
    Dale W. Avery KC7MM & Ms Daisy '73-SIII-88"
    "No matter where you go, there you are." 



------------------------------------
From: Michael Slade <Slade@imagina.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 1997 22:49:32 -0800
Subject: Re: Mystery leak


>Michael Slade wrote:
>> snip
>> The 109 was parked backwards with the nose downhill
>
>Exactly... check the oil type.  If it's 90w its the classic
>leak out of the transmission.  The SIIA transmission design...

Jeremy,

I appreciate your explanation, and I'll remember it for when I put back the
original IIA transmission later this summer.  However, I have a SIII tranny
in there now (up for grabs later this spring BTW) which still leaves me
scratching my head.  I haven't checked what kind of oil it was, as it's all
washed down the drain (it's raining here today).

Thanks, and I'll give you one more try.  ;)

Michael




------------------------------------
From: paarch@ix.netcom.com (Paul Archibald)
Date: Sat, 1 Feb 1997 23:04:39 -0800
Subject: Re: go/no-go fealer gauge??


Sounds like I need to pick one up. I always used two gauges, this would be
faster and more accurate
Paul
>Paul, sorry for taking so long to get back to you on this.  A go-no go guage
>is very similar to the set of blade guages you are probably using now.
>Here's the difference; the .010" guage is made from .012" guage stock that
>has had the first ~1/2" of the blade machined down to .010".  In use, the
>valve clearance is right when you can easily slip in the .010" front of the
>blade, but cannot slip the rear .012" segment through.  The .010" "goes",
>and the .012" is a "no-go".   Does that make sense, or should I give it
>another try?

Paul Archibald
Paarch@ix.netcom.com
(510)353-1320 or wk. (408)487-1336
'58 88" RHD 2-litre ....slowly, but surely
"87 Range-Rover-160,000 miles-"going strong" (Squeak)
Fly yellow '92 Ducati 750SS




------------------------------------
End of Digest
