From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Jun 1 15:14:15 1993 Return-Path: <growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM> Date: Tue, 1 Jun 93 12:06:15 PDT From: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, leefi@microsoft.com Subject: Re: Rover LWB in Cliffhanger My '64 SIIa is the "genuine Rover noise" star in the movie, "The Serpent And The Butterfly". This is a B horror movie about a beautiful (of course) athropoligist investigating Voo Doo in Haiti. I spent about four hours out in a quiet country area with a sound recording engineer from the studio. He was very consciencious and particular that he was getting things correct, like he would watch for airplanes (jets up high) and redo a recording if a bird churrped or there had been a truck off in the distance. He recorded everything he needed according to a "script" for the land Rover; accelerating, decelerating, braking, bonnet opening and closing, doors closing, slammimg ect. I went to see the movie (of course) even though it would not have been on my list of movies to see. My wife and I could easily recognize the Rover sounds from our truck, and I'd say they did an excelent job of putting the right sounds in the right spots. Maybe the "Rover noise star" in Cliffhanger *had* a Plymouth engine, but they asked me if mine was all original, before we cut a deal. See, now you have another reason to keep your Rover stock. Regards, Bill G.
> From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri May 28 22:51:30 1993 > To: lro@transfer.stratus.com > Subject: Rover LWB in Cliffhanger > Content-Length: 387 > X-Lines: 7 > > i saw the movie Cliffhanger this afternoon. in the movie, Stallone's > vehicle is a late Series II (perhaps III) LWB with a safari top, > gray/green. i don't believe the engine/transmission noises associated > with the vehicle in the movie were accurate, it sounded more like the > V8 in my old Barracuda from high school days... unfortunately, the > Rover had a minor role in the movie. :-( > >
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Jun 1 15:14:37 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Tue, 1 Jun 93 09:37:00 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, smb002@cent1.lancs.ac.uk Subject: Re: Fuel Deficiency Ross, You didn't say which engine you have in your land Rover. I just put a new series III readiator in my series II 109 2-1/4 pertol and it seems to be cooling just fine. I do have an overflow bottle attached. I also live in the cool coastal climate. You may want to check your thermostat, back- flush your block and check your timing. Land Rovers, like the TR3 & 4 (Morgans too) need a special thermostat that has a movable collar. There is a radiator bipass pipe that allows water to be pumped through the engine when the car is cold. When the thermostat opens, the collar moves to block the bipass opening and force the water through the radiator. If you do not have a special thermostat with the collar, your radiator (lots of little passages = high resistance) will be connected in parallel with an open bipass hose = low resistance) Most of your coolent would bipass the radiator when the engine is warm. When I rebuild my TR3A engine, I'm going to have to check if it takes the same diameter thermostat as the Land Rover (proper TR3 thermostats are very hard to find). TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Jun 1 18:14:42 1993
Return-Path: <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com>
From: Mark V Grieshaber <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com>
Subject: Beginning the rebuild on *my* Land Rover!
To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com (land-rover-owner)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 93 18:01:14 CDT
Reading about TeriAnn and Dixon working on their Land Rovers has gotten me
enthusiastic about working on mine.
I finally had a chance to start working on my Land Rover ('69 IIa 88" petrol)
project this last weekend. Nice to finally have some time available (another
major project got finished up the weekend before).
First order of business was to pull the rear differential, since the inner
two inches of the right axle was still in inside (twisted off in the diff).
I pulled the drive shaft and removed most of the differential housing nuts.
Then I went around to pull the left axle; I planned on replacing it too since
I didn't trust it, given the fate of its brother.
I pulled the bolts holding the drive flange to the wheel (and I also noted I
am missing a total of three bolts between the two sides). When I went to
gently pry it loose, it seemed *awfully* loose. When I took it in my hand I
could *spin* in around with no effort. Whoa. THAT shouldn't happen. I also
couldn't get the axle/flange to come out more than 0.25 inch. When I've
previously removed half shafts from an Austin Healey Sprite, they came out
with almost no effort whatsoever. Having a strong suspicion as to what I
might find, I removed the drive flange. The reason the drive flange was
rotating freely was that there were no longer any splines left inside the
flange. No more than smooth, very low bumps remained, along with some
buttery black goo (which is where splines go when they die).
Well, that answered that question! Add one drive flange to my shopping list
(anyone have a serviceable spare from a derelict in their sparebox? Rovers
North wants $44 for one, which is affordable, but I'd like to find a used for
less - I've already spent more on parts than I did for the Land Rover :( ).
The axle was still rather firmly engaged. I could wiggle it side to side,
but it would not budge when trying to withdraw it. I finally resorted to
rigging a gear puller jig, and managed to pull it (with a significant amount
of effort) another inch or so, at which point I ran out of travel with my jig
(the jig was up, so to speak :). The axle still being firmly attached, I
reattached the drive flange and pryed against it. There was a sudden soft
"pop" and the axle was free. When I tried to pull it I discovered that there
was not enough clearance between the Land Rover and the adjacent wall.
Rather than push the Land Rover outside, remove the axle, and push it back
inside by myself, I decided that it was late enough to retire from battle for
the night.
Next step (Friday, hopefully) is to remove the axle and differential. I will
be *very* curious to see the state of the differential. Any guesses as to
why the axle was so difficult to remove from the differential? Is there some
real reason that it should *not* be a smooth sliding fit like I was
expecting? As a guess, either the axle is half sheared at the differential,
and was thus an interference fit, or perhaps the axle is bent (didn't look
like it from the amount I was able to withdraw before hitting the wall).
Mark
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Jun 1 20:15:32 1993 Return-Path: <growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM> Date: Tue, 1 Jun 93 14:35:11 PDT From: growl@terminous.eng.sun.com (William L. Grouell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com, car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: LR Information Request for Weekend Project Dixon, I get the impression that none of the advise or suggestions that you get from this alias are worth the effort. Why don't you just continue with the duct tape, bailing wire and vise-grips. Let us know if your Rover gets down the driveway and back without requiring repair. Regards, Bill G. PS SIIa Rovers don't need ballast resistors. > ...a ballast resistor for the Mini (the Rover has the original)... > > I have found that nyloc nuts are really not worth the effort. > Rgds, > > Dixon > > > > -- > dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca > FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada >
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 2 06:14:55 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Aw,Nuts! To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Wed, 2 Jun 93 12:06:36 BST Can anyone tell me offhand what thread the two bolts are that fasten the main gear lever to the bellhousing?This is as distinct from the two *studs* that fasten it to the gearbox.My heap was missing the bolts when I bought it(also the D-shaped cover that fits underneath the mounting),and as a makeshift remedy then,(five years ago) I Loctited the back studs in, and made do with that.I did try at the time to find some siutable bolts, but gave up when I nearly dropped one into the bellhousing.I really*do* think its about time I did something about it,since it might make gear changing a little easier:-) Thanks Mike Rooth PS I'm even prepared to have an operation on my wallet,and BUY the two bolts.Talk about last of the big spenders.....
From shute!twakeman@apple.com Wed Jun 2 11:44:23 1993 Date: Wed, 2 Jun 93 09:44:11 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com, mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com Subject: Re: Beginning the rebuild on *my* Land Rover! Mark, Glad to read about you starting work on your Land rover. As to the cost of repairs, that is an interesting thing. Unless you got taken, or had the Landy for a while the cost of repair is inversly proportional to the fair selling price. I paid $350 for my 109 in 1978 and towed it home behind my late series IIA 88. The previous owner inherited the car and didn't know to put oil anyplace except the engine. He ran it until the rear diff went dry than on 4WD until the transfer case went dry. It was in overall poor shape with mostly good body panels. I got her on the road with a rebuilt diff and new bearings in the transfer case. 15 years and 200K miles later it was time to pay for the Land Rover. With a rebuilt engine, rebuilt transmission, new radiator, & assundry parts I just paid 8 times more than I paid for her to get her back on the road in decent condition. But it is nice to have her back on line again. Now about your axle problem. New axles can some times be a bit tight, but older axles should slide in & out One possible exception might be a soft metal axle (I currently have them in mine). Standard axles are hard steel. They have a tendency to crystalize then break. The soft metal ones are supposed to not crystalize and to twist unstead of break. Anyway, mine were a hammer fit. Now if yours were the same, then the ends (twords center of spyder gears) might still be a tight fit. Ether way, the axle should be clear of the diff when the axle is about 6 or 7 inches out. If you still have resistance and your axle is at least that far out, your resistance might be on the hub side and not the diff. You sticking might also have been because this axle was starting to shear or you had tension on the axle (was the transmission in gear or the transmission brake on and the drive shaft attached? ] If your other axle broke at the center, or you drove with the broken axle and rear drive shaft connected, chances are very good you will need a rebuilt diff. When you break an axle, you should immediatly stop the LR, and remove both axles and the rear drive shaft This insures nothing is turning the diff to get a chunk of metal between the pinion gear and the ring gear (sudden death). I've never broken an axle when I have had grubbies on and the tools in the car so I almost always lost the diff with the axle :*( You might try calling Jim "Scotty" Howett. He rebuilds diffs & can also probably send you a number of used parts. And yes I believe he will do mail order. Jim's number is (510)686-2255 (N.E. S.F. Bay area) Good luck! TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 2 11:54:47 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Wed, 2 Jun 93 09:44:11 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com, mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com Subject: Re: Beginning the rebuild on *my* Land Rover! Mark, Glad to read about you starting work on your Land rover. As to the cost of repairs, that is an interesting thing. Unless you got taken, or had the Landy for a while the cost of repair is inversly proportional to the fair selling price. I paid $350 for my 109 in 1978 and towed it home behind my late series IIA 88. The previous owner inherited the car and didn't know to put oil anyplace except the engine. He ran it until the rear diff went dry than on 4WD until the transfer case went dry. It was in overall poor shape with mostly good body panels. I got her on the road with a rebuilt diff and new bearings in the transfer case. 15 years and 200K miles later it was time to pay for the Land Rover. With a rebuilt engine, rebuilt transmission, new radiator, & assundry parts I just paid 8 times more than I paid for her to get her back on the road in decent condition. But it is nice to have her back on line again. Now about your axle problem. New axles can some times be a bit tight, but older axles should slide in & out One possible exception might be a soft metal axle (I currently have them in mine). Standard axles are hard steel. They have a tendency to crystalize then break. The soft metal ones are supposed to not crystalize and to twist unstead of break. Anyway, mine were a hammer fit. Now if yours were the same, then the ends (twords center of spyder gears) might still be a tight fit. Ether way, the axle should be clear of the diff when the axle is about 6 or 7 inches out. If you still have resistance and your axle is at least that far out, your resistance might be on the hub side and not the diff. You sticking might also have been because this axle was starting to shear or you had tension on the axle (was the transmission in gear or the transmission brake on and the drive shaft attached? ] If your other axle broke at the center, or you drove with the broken axle and rear drive shaft connected, chances are very good you will need a rebuilt diff. When you break an axle, you should immediatly stop the LR, and remove both axles and the rear drive shaft This insures nothing is turning the diff to get a chunk of metal between the pinion gear and the ring gear (sudden death). I've never broken an axle when I have had grubbies on and the tools in the car so I almost always lost the diff with the axle :*( You might try calling Jim "Scotty" Howett. He rebuilds diffs & can also probably send you a number of used parts. And yes I believe he will do mail order. Jim's number is (510)686-2255 (N.E. S.F. Bay area) Good luck! TeriAnn
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 2 12:34:02 1993 Return-Path: <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> From: Mark V Grieshaber <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> Subject: Background on my Land Rover To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com Date: Wed, 2 Jun 93 12:22:03 CDT In-Reply-To: <9306021644.AA23119@apple.com>; from "Teriann J. Wakeman" at Jun 2, 93 9:44 am TeriAnn says: > Glad to read about you starting work on your Land rover. As to the cost > of repairs, that is an interesting thing. Unless you got taken, or had > the Landy for a while the cost of repair is inversly proportional to the > fair selling price. Fortunately, I paid a very low price for my Land Rover. The fact that it had been derelict for approximately 10 years and abandoned by the previous owner helped. It is thus easy to spend more than the purchase price on new parts through Rovers North (for example, completely new rubber seals, two new axles, missing carb bits, new rear window, ignition switch (remember, I didn't get the key with it!), hydraulic rebuild kits, new choke cable, etc, etc, etc). One challenge here is that (as a balance for the low purchase price) I have to discover all the problems on my own - no previous owner to talk to, and no chance to drive it beforehand. Though I knew of the broken right axle, I did not try to disassemble the left axle or differential before purchase - I figured I'd take them as I found them and deal with them when rebuilding it. > Now about your axle problem. New axles can some times be a bit tight, but > older axles should slide in & out One possible exception might be a soft metal > axle (I currently have them in mine). Standard axles are hard steel. They > have a tendency to crystalize then break. The soft metal ones are supposed > to not crystalize and to twist unstead of break. Anyway, mine were a hammer > fit. Now if yours were the same, then the ends (twords center of spyder > gears) might still be a tight fit. Ether way, the axle should be clear of the > diff when the axle is about 6 or 7 inches out. If you still have resistance > and your axle is at least that far out, your resistance might be on the > hub side and not the diff. Yow! A *hammer* fit? The sprite was a finger push fit. I have no idea if these are the originals or replacements. They will shortly be replacement new Land Rover (via Rovers North) axles (halfshafts, I suppose, for the correct terminology). The resistance to removal dropped to zero after about four or five inches of extraction. I figure all the resistance was extracting the splines from the differential. > You sticking might also have been because this axle was starting to shear or > you had tension on the axle (was the transmission in gear or the transmission brake on > and the drive shaft attached? The rear drive shaft was removed at the time. My suspicion is a partly twisted inner spline end on the axle (the other was twisted completely off). I'll know when I remove the axle and diff this Friday. Mark
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sat Jun 5 04:17:29 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fearful!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: LR Information Request for Weekend Project
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 1993 03:14:41 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec
growl@terminous.Eng.Sun.COM (William L. Grouell) writes:
> I get the impression that none of the advise or suggestions that you get
> from this alias are worth the effort. Why don't you just continue with the
> duct tape, bailing wire and vise-grips. Let us know if your Rover gets down
> the driveway and back without requiring repair.
Actually they are very useful. Some, while greatly detailed and
outlining a series of steps are not appropriate when faced by a
notary waving a contract stating that the beast must leave the
property in order to finalise the sale of my house. This is when
the duct tape and bailing wire comes into play. I had roughly a
month to move out of my house into the new place withour
assistance. The Rover was my only form of serious transportation,
as Mini or Rabbit loads were not going to get me very far very
fast.
Now that I am happily ensconced in my new abode, I shall begin to
make use of the suggestions and advice and fix some of the
temperary bodge jobs that I have been forced to undertake. There
are a nuimber of outstanding problems that are needing to be
addressed. Starting with a compression test, replacing the Solex
with a Weber, replacing the petrol tank, exhaust system, should get
the vehicle to a more reliable state, or one where it will go more
than fifty miles without serious sworking at the side of the road.
On can only carry around boxes of spare parts and a ton of tools
for so long.
I have been archiving this mailing list for as long as I have
received it. The series on restarting a long dead engine have been
excellent, despite the final failure of all of the options to
actually move the pistons without actually extracting the engine.
In fact a number of people in the Ottawa area read the print-outs
that I supply (those without modems to connect into my system, or
who were ldx to my system) on the various trials and tribulations
of myself and others here.
While it would be nice to have a Rover that did not require the
amount of effort that I have poured into mine, the end result will
be rather satisfying, as well as providing me with the knowledge
and confidence to effect future repairs and restorative work on the
beast. The messages here have given me a great deal of confidence,
and even if many arrive after I have found a solution, is is
*greatly* assuring to read that I have done the correct thing.
Now, if I only had a live InterNet feed rather than the slow uucp
feed, much wasted effort would be avoided.
Don't forget, bailing wire, duct tape, and vice grips can get an
unco-operative vehicle to get somewhere where serious attention can
be addressed to the failures that have occurred. They are only
temperary in nature. Waiting for parts requires such inventive
actions, when one really cannot wait for various reasons. $$$
availability requires that I get parts from the cheapest, genuine,
source, and while RN is fairly close, when applied to my bank
balance, it is far away.
> PS SIIa Rovers don't need ballast resistors.
This one does. This is a SIIa that required the headlamps to be
turned on before the engine will fire. To get the 109 back to its
original state is going to be a long task as various "options" are
removed, and the vehicle put back into its original 1964 state.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Breckenridge, Quebec, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Jun 7 09:57:12 1993 Return-Path: <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> From: Mark V Grieshaber <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> Subject: The differential story, answers and questions To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com (land-rover-owner) Date: Mon, 7 Jun 93 9:44:26 CDT A friend and I pulled the rear differential on the Land Rover Friday night. I now have the dubious pleasure of knowing *exactly* why the rear end self destructed. The previous owner had made a permanently locked differential by arc welding the inside differential gears into one solid mass. The twisting forces going around turns must have been tremendous. No wonder one axle twisted off completely, and the other wiped out its drive flange. Other than the arc welding, the differential is in perfect shape. :( I had fully expected to find a catastrophic failure, broken teeth, etc. I would have shrugged and said - "accident, these things happen". But instead I feel disappointed that this whole mess was caused by a rather stupid human action. Can anyone enlighten me - does locking a differential like this make any sense, really? I can understand it for drag racers (straight shot, no turns), or off road *only* vehicles (mud, snow, sand, or bouncing three wheels off the ground a lot), but for a *Land Rover*? Anyhow, I need another differential and two new drive flanges (I looked at the "good" one, after wiping off grease - the splines are half gone already). I've already mentioned that there are *no* used Land Rover parts available locally. Does anyone on the list have a line on a decent used differential? (I am very serious here - if you have a spare used diff in your possession, or know of a derelict that you would be willing to snare the differential from, I would be very willing to buy it from you - email me if you are interested). I note Rovers North has used diffs listed for $350, which if I can't find one significantly cheaper, I'll have to take. TeriAnn, you passed along "Scotty" Howett's number earlier - is that where you have gotten your differentials when you have needed them? It is possible that mine is rebuildable - though minimally it will need a matched set of four differential gears, and probably the differential case (the one the crown wheel bolts to). Given this situtation, I am doubtful that mine could be rebuilt cheaper than buying a new one, but I don't know, having never done this before - opinions? Is rebuilding a Land Rover differential something a Land Rover expert (like Scotty) would be solely capable of, or could a local differential shop do a competent job? I spent the weekend fixing wiring. The p.o. had quite a few interesting bodge jobs in the wiring harness - there were loose wires lying about all over, bare ends (no terminals to even help guess where things went). After a full day with my meter, I am close to being confident that it will not melt down immediately when I connect a battery. A quick run to Radio Shack for more crimp connectors tonight, and the electrical system will be complete enough to test with power. (Speaking of bodge jobs, how does an aftermarket ammeter (the full current pass through kind (no external shunt)) with the wiring simply stripped and *wrapped* loosely about the terminals strike you?) I have a Zenith carb. The previous choke cable was toast. I put a new one on, but am apparently missing some clamping piece to hold the outer sheath at the carb. There are two thin parallel slots in a metal braket attached to the carb. Is this where it mounts, and if so, what does the mounting arrangement look like? Also, is the proper routing of the choke cable over or under the heater pipes? The total hydraulic system needs rebuilding, of course. I note that the clutch master cylinder is aluminum (whereas the brake master is iron). I've rebuilt plenty of iron cylinders, but no aluminum. Do I recall that there is a problem rebuilding aluminum cylinders? Recommended alternative (if so) is presumably buy a new one? Mark
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Jun 7 11:15:39 1993
Return-Path: <ccm!Bruce_Harding@intelhf.intel.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 93 09:10:03 PST
From: Bruce Harding <Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: The differential story, answers and questions
Mark,
There is a guy locally that is a land rover fanatic. I was
buying a slave cylinder rebuild kit the other day and he
mentioned he have many used parts. His vitals are:
Doug Shipman
Ships Landrover Repair/Parts
503-252-5566
All the local LR people I know have had god results working
with him. If he doesn't pan out let me know...When I was
showing my autos's at the Portland British Field meet last
year a person named Ken Hillard gave me his card and told me
about his LR business...he's located in Yakima, WA I beleive
(I have his card at home). Good luck.
Bruce Harding
Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com
Anyhow, I need another differential and two new drive flanges (I looked at
the "good" one, after wiping off grease - the splines are half gone
already). I've already mentioned that there are *no* used Land Rover parts
available locally. Does anyone on the list have a line on a decent used
differential? (I am very serious here - if you have a spare used diff in
your possession, or know of a derelict that you would be willing to snare the
differential from, I would be very willing to buy it from you - email me if
you are interested). I note Rovers North has used diffs listed for $350,
which if I can't find one significantly cheaper, I'll have to take.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 9 16:51:27 1993 Return-Path: <brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com> Date: Wed, 9 Jun 93 17:36:44 EDT From: Inside every Volvo is an Idiot trying to get out <brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Apparently-To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: New Old LandRover Owner Well, I did it.... I'm a registered LandRover owner now. Last weekend I bought a '69 IIa SWB and today it passed inspection here in Mass. Before I even had the inspection sticker, I had an order in to Rovers North for $500 in various parts and more are on the way. Interesting vehicle to drive... I've done Bondurant's and done track time so I like to do a proper heel-toe, rev-matched, double-declutched downshift when I'm driving (you're either on the throttle or on the brake or you're not driving). Doing this in the LR, however, is another matter :-). Heel-toe really *is* heel-toe in there. Since I'm usually using a synchro'd transmission, my double declutching is really an anti-wear measure, in the 3rd-to-2nd in the LR, it's required. I'm getting much better/smoother at it as a result. But putting all the pieces together, it whines, it shimies, and a decidedly non-linear steering mechanism make it all a real workout... I am having fun... This weekend I'm planning on replacing all shocks (they're pumping air at the moment), front springs, misc. electrical bits and maybe some seals if the RN order comes in time. I have a can of honest-to- god triethyl lead to fix up the fuel but a valve job with hardened seats will eventually happen. Probably work on the front bearings too; I have a bit too much endfloat at the moment... This new LR owner would like to enlist the readers in looking out for
some parts I'd like to get. Mainly, an overdrive unit. From the diagrams, it looks like this fits on the back of the transfer case and replaces what I'll call the idler shaft in the transfer unit... (Is that right?) Like to hear recommendations and suggestions on such a beast. RN has a Fairley unit for something like $800; I'd like to do better than that if possible (wouldn't mind rebuilding one). Would also like an oil pressure sending unit and an original heater valve.... How does one replace the side and rear door latches? If possible, I'd like to get matching locking units. Generally isn't necessary but I would like the option of having the beast minimally secured when parked in the open.... RN has some leather gaiters for the swivel pin housings. Has anyone tried these? Are they a good thing or do they just collect grunge? Also talked to RN about replacing the frame. It's not something I need to do yet but it would be an interesting project. They've had people do it in a (long) weekend. I asked them if they have anything like the tech bulletins in their newsletter on frame replacement and they said no but they've had offers/suggestions of making a video of LR repair including frame work. Give them a call and encourage them... this would be a 'Good Thing'. Guess I need a name for the beast, too.... Monty
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 9 18:04:19 1993
Return-Path: <ccm!Bruce_Harding@intelhf.intel.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 93 15:59:00 PST
From: Bruce Harding <Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: New Old LandRover Owner
>Well, I did it.... I'm a registered LandRover owner now. Last weekend
>I bought a '69 IIa SWB and today it passed inspection here in Mass.
Congratulations...they are different than anythong else you'll
drive (as it sounds like you've found out). If the tranny is stock,
1st and 2nd are not synchromesh. I have to double clutch into 2nd.
It's a bit harder to downshift into 2nd but it can be done without
grinding although it's easier to leave it in 3rd and push hard on the
accelerator.
>This new LR owner would like to enlist the readers in looking out for
>some parts I'd like to get. Mainly, an overdrive unit.
I would recommend this is you will do any driving over 55mph or
have any steep hills to climb. I have a Fairey OD on mine and I
can hold 65-70mph on a flat with no problem (I like to pass people
in MB and BMW's doing 75 and look at the expression on their
faces). The OD also allows you to split shift when driving up
steep hills. Without it stay off to the far right so the traffic
can pass.
>How does one replace the side and rear door latches?
I don't think removing them is a big deal. The door keys on mine
are different that the rear door. I don't know if this is stock or
not. You may want to just remove the locks and take them to a locksmith
to re-key them (I don't know if this is possable but seems cheaper than
new locks).
>RN has some leather gaiters for the swivel pin housings. Has anyone
>tried these? Are they a good thing or do they just collect grunge?
I have these on mine. They were put on when the swivel pins were
replaced 15k miles ago. The seem to be holding up fine. I would
think it's better to stop all the grunge from getting on the swivel
pins.
>Guess I need a name for the beast, too....
I can't think of a more approiate name then 'beast'.
Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com
70 Series IIa 88"
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 9 18:27:44 1993 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Wed, 9 Jun 93 22:47:08 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Monty's new rig Monty- many congrads on your new purchase. as for leather gaiters-i, too would like to see some comments from other lro's on this. i considered purchasing some while i did the swivel pin housing seals on nigel, but backed off. RN told me that they were a good idea if you plan on doing lots of off roading in the mud and sand, but were otherwise not really of any benefit. i am planning on replacing my cones and springs (within the swivel pin housing) with a raliko bush setup in the coming months (never did entirely get rid of my front end shimmy and have traced the problem to a) a partially worn spline that fits within my r/s cone and b) the cones themselves-original circa 1960's....i am told by RN that the new bush setup comes with new splines that have to be press fit into the lever controlling the angle of the swivel pin housing). i figure that while i do the new bush setup i will reconsider the gaiters. many people over the past several years i've watched this list have posted questions on overdrives......the consensus seems to be BUY NEW. $800 does not seem that rediculous to me-but then again, nigel came with a fairey unit as was. after enjoying it for a year now, i am not sure i will ever own a road-worthy rover without one. splurge! framejob in a weekend?? good luck. better wait 'til the off season (if there ever is one with a LR). Rovon! rd
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 9 19:19:42 1993 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Wed, 9 Jun 93 22:47:08 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Monty's new rig Monty- many congrads on your new purchase. as for leather gaiters-i, too would like to see some comments from other lro's on this. i considered purchasing some while i did the swivel pin housing seals on nigel, but backed off. RN told me that they were a good idea if you plan on doing lots of off roading in the mud and sand, but were otherwise not really of any benefit. i am planning on replacing my cones and springs (within the swivel pin housing) with a raliko bush setup in the coming months (never did entirely get rid of my front end shimmy and have traced the problem to a) a partially worn spline that fits within my r/s cone and b) the cones themselves-original circa 1960's....i am told by RN that the new bush setup comes with new splines that have to be press fit into the lever controlling the angle of the swivel pin housing). i figure that while i do the new bush setup i will reconsider the gaiters. many people over the past several years i've watched this list have posted questions on overdrives......the consensus seems to be BUY NEW. $800 does not seem that rediculous to me-but then again, nigel came with a fairey unit as was. after enjoying it for a year now, i am not sure i will ever own a road-worthy rover without one. splurge! framejob in a weekend?? good luck. better wait 'til the off season (if there ever is one with a LR). Rovon! rd
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 10 03:43:51 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Gaiters To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Thu, 10 Jun 93 9:35:09 BST A mate of mine who had a a '80 S11 88" rebiult his front axle,including new swivel housings.He also added gaiters.The people who sold him the parts advised him to fill the gaiters with grease after fitting.He did.Worked fine, no grot can get to the chrome housings through all *that* grease. As for O/D units,I wish I could afford one.Who knows,I *might* just be able to reach the dizzy speed of 50mph:-)Go for it. Incidenally,for S11 above,read S111. You are certainly going to be busy.Just how many days *do* you people have in a weekend?:-) Congratulations,and enjoy yourself. Cheers Mike Rooth
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 10 04:16:39 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Gaiters To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Thu, 10 Jun 93 9:35:09 BST A mate of mine who had a a '80 S11 88" rebiult his front axle,including new swivel housings.He also added gaiters.The people who sold him the parts advised him to fill the gaiters with grease after fitting.He did.Worked fine, no grot can get to the chrome housings through all *that* grease. As for O/D units,I wish I could afford one.Who knows,I *might* just be able to reach the dizzy speed of 50mph:-)Go for it. Incidenally,for S11 above,read S111. You are certainly going to be busy.Just how many days *do* you people have in a weekend?:-) Congratulations,and enjoy yourself. Cheers Mike Rooth
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 10 18:53:18 1993 Return-Path: <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> From: Mark V Grieshaber <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> Subject: Solex Carb rebuild kit, maybe available... To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com (land-rover-owner) Date: Thu, 10 Jun 93 11:17:31 CDT Weren't folks (specifically you, Dixon) saying that rebuild kits for Solex carburetors were no longer available? I just bought a rebuild kit for my Zenith, and thought I would ask (out of curiosity) if they could get a kit for a Solex. The shop checked into it, and said they could, but that they needed the number off the Solex to get the right kit. Perhaps they are mining a lode of unexhausted Solex parts kits? Does anyone want me to pursue this farther? Mark
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 10 18:55:13 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Thu, 10 Jun 93 08:47:05 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: New Old LandRover Owner Monty, Congradulations on your new purchase! I have the leather gaters over my swivel ball joints. I think they are good insurance. They are not very hard to put on & protect the swivels and the seals. pitting is the enemy on the swivels. If you live in a place where there are corrosives on the road I would consider them a must. RE: Overdrives. They do indeed replace a plate on the back of the transfer case. Beware of used ones, they are normally worn out. I would save up for a new one then be sure to keep it full of oil Oil Hmm that reminds me... FREQUENTLY check the oil levels in the transmission, transfer case (opening half way up on back), both front swivel ball housings, and both diffs. You do not know how fast these are leaking oil and you really do not want any of these to run dry. It gets very expensive very fast. Transmission- Do not try to speed shift these. all the gears need to cone to a complete halt at the middle of the 'H'. This is especilally true of the all syncro series III transmission. failure to do so will after a while result in little mettal pices littering the inside bottom of the transmission housing. Don't litter. 4th gear is always the prefered gear to minimize wear on the transmission. rear axles- These crystalize over time. Crystalized axles break. If you do not know how long yours have been in, it wouldn't hurt to replace both with new ones. New frame- Yah, right, pull the entire drive train, including front and rear axles, all the steering stuff, the body and install all this onto a new frame in one week end. right. You say there were about 10 trained Land Rover mechanics working on the job and all the bolts were new before they started? TeriAnn '60 109 two door
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 10 18:58:21 1993 Return-Path: <brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com> Date: Thu, 10 Jun 93 12:11:55 EDT From: Inside every Volvo is an Idiot trying to get out <brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Apparently-To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: New Old LandRover Owner Sounds like the gaiters are a good idea... Plenty of salt here in NE so a pair will be secured... Guess I will get a new Fairey unit. Looks like another call to RN is in the works. Has anyone installed one of these after-the-fact? Does it require a new hole and boot in the floor or does the stick come up through an existing hole? It's not clear from the picture in the catalog.... >New frame- >Yah, right, pull the entire drive train, including front and rear axles, >all the steering stuff, the body and install all this onto a new frame in >one week end. right. You say there were about 10 trained Land Rover mechanics >working on the job and all the bolts were new before they started? The story was, it was a *long* weekend, Thanksgiving to be precise. Didn't replace everything he should have, like shackle bolts, etc. and had to do these as they fell apart soon after the reframing. Another guy did one in a week and the RN person on the phone did one in a month of evenings. A minimum of 40 hours work was the estimate he gave. It sounds like a rewarding project: to have a LandRover with a pristine frame. Oooh, aaah! This weekend I'll be doing the shocks and front springs (lists just slightly to port) and will be playing Mr. Petroleum Products to top off all the oil/grease consuming bits. Another question: does the timing chain wear badly? Should I consider replacing it and the tensioner just as a precaution? And where do most people mount the Blaupunkt? :-) monty
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 10 18:58:21 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: Parts!
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1993 23:36:45 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
Finally! A parts order from Merseyside arrives. New door hinge
rebuild kits (to replace some ugly stove bolts), a new petrol tank
(to replace an army gerry can and a sediment filled original tank),
the adapter plate for the Weber, and a silencer/tail pipe assembly.
Looks like this may be a Rover weekend as I undertake the fitting
of all of these nice new parts... <grin> It may even be ready for
some serious off-road activities next weekend at the OVLR
camping/birthday party. I understand they have been setting up
some rather challenging courses for us to try out...
It feels like Christmas!
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 10 18:59:19 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Late breaking news...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1993 11:43:33 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
Though I lack the original article, the London Telegraph had an
article on the Discovery this past Tuesday. Apparently, Rover
has signed an agreement with Honda to rebadge the Discovery under a
Honda label and sell it in Japan. Rover has rejected suggestions
that this move will devalue the LR name, but says that it is a
tribute to quality English workmanship. This is the first time
that a Japanese firm has taken a foreign produced vehicle and
rebadged it with a Japanese name.
The version to be shipped will be the SWB softtop edition with roll
bar, alloy wheels, 2.5TDi engine. The article I am told also says
that it will be the petrol version. Somehow the engine and petrol
do not seem to go together very well...
Last year Rover sold 800 vehicles through 35 dealerships. With the
Honda version, it will be sold through the large Honda dealership
network. Production is expected to increase by some fifty cars a
week to meet the demand.
Honda owns 20% of Rover Group.
List price is expected to be the Japanese equiv. of 15,995 pounds.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 10 19:04:16 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: New Old LandRover Owner
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Wed, 9 Jun 1993 23:26:59 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
Inside every Volvo is an Idiot trying to get out <brandenberg@gauss. writes:
> Well, I did it.... I'm a registered LandRover owner now.
Congradulations. It is nice to hear that another LR has found a
happy home and will continue to work for many more years.
> This new LR owner would like to enlist the readers in looking out for
> some parts I'd like to get. Mainly, an overdrive unit.
Buy one new. Finding a used one can be very difficult, and at
$800 from RN, it is a worthwhile investment.
> If possible, I'd like to get matching locking units.
Actually, I have never seen one with matching locks. Both drivers
door and rear door have different keys.
> RN has some leather gaiters for the swivel pin housings. Has anyone
> tried these? Are they a good thing or do they just collect grunge?
They are a good thing, but only worth fitting if you are planning
to attack the swivel housing to replace seals or parts. To remove
all of the various parts to put the gaiters in place can be a
formidible task. I would wait until you need to undertake other
preventative measures.
> Guess I need a name for the beast, too....
Hmmm, until I think of something, "swamp beast" is reserved up here
:-) Actually it should probably be "tundra beast"... :-)
Rgds.
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 10 23:41:03 1993
Return-Path: <jory@Athena.MIT.EDU>
From: jory@athena.mit.edu
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: misc rover rantings
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 93 00:31:24 EDT
door locks:
when i got my rover, the rear lock was inoperational...
and the side locks were only marginally so... i ended up replacing
all the lock cylinders, so now everything is on the same key
note to monty (and other botson area roverists):
i recently had some spare keys made by a really
good locksmith who used to have a land rover
machina locksmith
(al kamishlan)
3 porter street
watertown ma 02127
617-923-1683
mobile: 617-694-3990
i am sure he coud advise you on your options...
frame replacement:
i once did a frame replacement on a chevy suburban
in less than 30 hours (although we did gain access to a 20 ton hoist and
3 people)... this job included a conversion from 2-4 wheel drive and
automatic to standard... admittedly, things needed a bit of fine tuning
during the next 6 months or so ;)
my (rover) frame replacement took probably 200 hours spread over almost
3 months... (jeez, your descriptions of weekend rover frame jobs makes
me feel slothful in the extreme)... but then again, my rover has been
cursed by satan and absolutely everything went wrong (and i had
pretty much no assistance which made parts of the project kinda
interesting) i also did paint (since the body panels were a
misfit bunch) and a bunch of other jobs "while it's apart..."
if i spent one more day waiting for the ups guy...
i must say that after this adventure/ordeal, my motivation to work on
the vehicle has declined precipitiously, anyone else experienced this type
of reaction... (it's been almost a year) perhas it is just that there
is no other rover enthusiasts to work with, since dixon's tales of
ovlr "work" sessions sounded kind o fun, and i also kind of liked the few
times i have had stuff done at RN (warranty work on a rebuilt gearbox
for example) & charlie let me assist and do other misc work... but in
this case, there was also definite joy to be derived from toiling in
one of the most pleasing working environments i have ever encountered
(good equipment, all the parts you could ask for, beautiful space/
building (building for that matter!) experts all round, other rovers
being worked on and driven, etc... :)
note to all (especially monty and other in the new england area):
thinking about parts from RN, just wanted to take this moment to reiterate
never to get anything from DAP in wareham mass... when i first had my rover
and didn't know about RN (and a while after i did know, and was just
plain stupid) i had got parts from there and had fred monsee do some work with
parts from there... absolutely every major component i sourced from DAP
failed in some manner... usually incurring greater costs that the original
problem...
a couple examples of my getting DAPped":
i got DAP springs, and within 1.5 years they were so fucked
that during the frame replacement rebuild i thought the new frame was
geometrically incorrect since the drive shafts would not mate properly
(the front springs were totally arched, with no spring and the rear were
flat) when i took these to a frame place for rearching, they said it wasn't
worth it, since the metal sucked, and they would have guessed the age of
the spring was more than 10 years...
i had an engine rebuild done, 2 years after which, various rocker-area hardware
had failed ("bad metallurgy") such that not only did i have to redo the upper
engine, but my crankshaft was hosed...
i could go on, but i guess this will (at least temporarily) satiate my desire
to expound the evils of DAP...
finally:
anyone have info on the rover rally type thingy happening in maine later
this month?
later,
jory
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 11 00:09:59 1993 Return-Path: <brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com> Date: Fri, 11 Jun 93 01:01:04 EDT From: Inside every Volvo is an Idiot trying to get out <brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com> To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Apparently-To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: misc rover rantings >note to monty (and other botson area roverists): >i recently had some spare keys made by a really >good locksmith who used to have a land rover > >machina locksmith >(al kamishlan) >3 porter street >watertown ma 02127 >617-923-1683 >mobile: 617-694-3990 I'll keep him in the file but my problem isn't so much that the lock cores don't match (true they don't) but I don't even have one on the passenger side. The latch/lock mechanism appears to be bolted/rivetted from the inside of the door and so not easily replaced. The rear and driver door locks have cores but no pins, *any* key opens them. That's actually fine with me, who thinks to look for a broken core? Jory, sorry to hear about your troubles... Driving to VT is a hell of a trip for warranty work... Hadn't heard about DAP but I thought there was some (disreputable) outfit in the Dedham area. I knew about RN so I never considered any local options for parts. monty
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 11 03:51:24 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Discojap To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Fri, 11 Jun 93 9:43:53 BST Sounds like the Daily Telegraph has *really* got its knickers in a twist:-)Disco *soft top*? SWB?Balls!And since the Range Rover, or so I hear,is *the* status car in Japan along with the Jag,and sells quite happily as Range Rover why the change of name?Strike me as yet another example of Land Rover propping up the entire Rover group,as they have done since the S1 first came out.I agree it is a downgrading of the Land Rover name.If this goes on,I can see another outcry similar to the one when either Ford or GM tried to buy out British Leyland,when Baggie Thatcher was in power.They admitted they didnt want any part of the group except Land Rover.You can still see Land Rovers over here with "Keep Land Rover Britsh" stickers left over from that time.There was one *hell* of a row,and of course,the deal was blocked.My feeling,for what its worth(ie not a lot)is that if Honda want an off-roader let them build their own.We've got enough japcrap japjeeps over here as it is without turning Land Rover into another one.Makes me so spitting mad(as you may have guessed) Sorry about the soapbox,and thanks for the info Dixon. Cheers Mike Rooth
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 11 10:05:17 1993 Return-Path: <bellas@gamma.tti.com> Date: Fri, 11 Jun 93 07:56:31 PDT From: bellas@gamma.tti.com (Bellas) To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Late breaking news... >Apparently, Rover has signed an agreement with Honda to rebadge the Discovery >under a Honda label and sell it in Japan. ><.....> >This is the first time that a Japanese firm has taken a foreign produced >vehicle and rebadged it with a Japanese name. I believe that Mazda takes Ford Explorers and rebadges them for sale under the Mazda nameplate, and have been doing so for several years. I see nothing wrong with rebadging as long as they don't want to muck with the internals (like puting a honda v6 in it). Keeping up sales volume some- times means doing things like this, and I would very much like to see Rover stay healthy. Just MHO. -Pete-
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 11 20:21:37 1993 Return-Path: <twakeman@apple.com> Date: Fri, 11 Jun 93 18:12:05 -0700 From: Teriann J. Wakeman <twakeman@apple.com> To: brandenberg@gauss.enet.dec.com, lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: New Old LandRover Owner The timing tensioner is usually the first to go. When it is on its way out, you will hear a sound on startup that sounds like bad bearings ubtil the oil pumps up the tensioner. Everything is probably OK until then. Assuming you can hear the radio over the engine & gears, many people have put a wooden shelf over the windscreen (mounts to the edges of the top). They put radios, speakers, amps, CBs & more up there. The antennal goes on the right wing. TeriAnn And You didn't think i knew the answer to the Blaupunkt question
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sat Jun 12 01:44:18 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Solex Carb rebuild kit, maybe available...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1993 01:03:39 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
Mark V Grieshaber <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> writes:
> Weren't folks (specifically you, Dixon) saying that rebuild kits for Solex
> carburetors were no longer available? I just bought a rebuild kit for my
> Zenith, and thought I would ask (out of curiosity) if they could get a kit
> for a Solex. The shop checked into it, and said they could, but that they
> needed the number off the Solex to get the right kit.
I would certainly be interested in hearing if the kits could
actually be obtained. When I tried last summer, most places said
they could get them, but when it came to produce, they couldn't.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sat Jun 12 10:51:54 1993 Return-Path: <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> From: Mark V Grieshaber <mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com> Subject: Re: Solex Carb rebuild kit, maybe available... To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Sat, 12 Jun 93 10:45:21 CDT In-Reply-To: <skm15B1w165w@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca>; from "dixon kenner" at Jun 12, 93 1:03 am > > for a Solex. The shop checked into it, and said they could, but that they > > needed the number off the Solex to get the right kit. > > I would certainly be interested in hearing if the kits could > actually be obtained. When I tried last summer, most places said > they could get them, but when it came to produce, they couldn't. I understand, and have run into the same thing before. If you want me to check, I need the number off the carb. Mark
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sat Jun 12 13:28:05 1993 Return-Path: <smb002@central1.lancaster.ac.uk> Via: uk.ac.lancaster.central1; Sat, 12 Jun 1993 19:15:25 +0100 From: Ross <smb002@cent1.lancs.ac.uk> Subject: carb rebuild kits To: lro@transfer.stratus.com (lro) Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1993 19:15:21 +0100 (BST) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Length: 674 Weber make a complete range of both Weber and non Weber service kits for most makes of carb. Kits include needle valves, diagphragms, gaskets seals, idle screws, springs etc... they do not include new jets however. They are availbale from mail order, direct from Demon Tweeks Hugmore Lane LLan-y-pwll Wrexham Clwyd United Kingdom LL13 9YE International phone number 44 978 664466 Fax: 44 978 664467 Exmaple of prices (from their colour catalogue, in pounds sterling, no VAT) Stromberg 175CD (Range Rover) 9.64 Weber DCOE 10.10 Ford VV 16.00 They can also supply kits for aisan, zenith, solex, pierberg, nikki etc type carbs.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun Jun 13 01:50:49 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: Saturday in the bush...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1993 00:51:41 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
Another Saturday has past, and the beast is some 35 miles away in
Almonte where further work shall be undertaken to ready it for its
safety. A fringe benefit of its new temperary home, is that it is
at the site of next weekends OVLR birthday party... :-)
I must admit, that towing a trailer with a dead Mini down a divided
highway does have its moments. Some brave souls are happy to fly
by at warp speed, while others like to hang back behind me for some
unexplained reason. But alas, I am now down the three cars, two of
which function, not counting a tempermental Land Rover.
While finding a home for the trailer behind one friends place,
through a rough field, the bouncing managed to rock the engine-
radiator enough to cause the hose to blow off. Not that I really
noticed at the time, as I dumped the trailer and headed off to a
second friends place to play in the woods and test out some of the
proposed trails for next weekends adventures.
They are good trails... :-) Some can be only taken with extreme
care, and robably a good bit of winching. Next weekend is going to
be an occassion for a lawn chair, a case of beer, and a good site
to watch the fun when it is not my turn (assuming the beast is
ready). Other trails are for swb's only. Some of the turns are
just too sharp for a 109 to get around the trees... Onther trails
are bouncy enough, that the spare 2.25l engine wedged in the back
came loose and bounced around in the back of my 109. Happily the
carpet and plywood saved all from serious damage.
We did manage to get one '62 swb stuck quite well, and after
extracting it with a second, the over enthusiastic driver forged
forward, bounced up over a large stump, and landed on the stump
with a mighty crash. It now has a rather dented frame, as well as
having ripped the frame support under the petrol tank mostly off.
Oh well, he is a welder with the Federal Science & Tech. museum, so
all is expected to be back to normal for next weekend.
As for my beast, the Solex has been replaced with the Weber.
Despite assurances by various people that this change over is
straight forward and simple, well it is and it isn't. The air
intake hone and adapter for a Solex is too large for a Weber. One
needs to get the air intake adapter off of a later vehicle
(something to locate...) and the throtle linkage is also wrong for
the conversion. One must remove the brass bushing from the linkage
and put it on the other side so you can get all of the necessary
clearences for it to work correctly. When ordering the Weber, one
must also remember to order the adapter as the normal bolt pattern
for a Solex is about 90 degrees out.
Tomorrow I guess the process of changing over the petrol tank will
be undertaken. As for the silencer, they sent me the wrong one.
The silencer for a swb will not cut it for a 109. Now to see how
my friends in England deal with this screw-up. My fax clearly
stated that the 109 was a 109, NADA Station Wagon, wit the serial
number. Kind of hard in my books to make such a goof... Oh well,
another in the club needs one, so this time I can unload it at my
cost. I'd rather be saved the trouble...
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun Jun 13 10:11:32 1993
Return-Path: <moore@fslg8.fsl.noaa.gov>
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 93 14:59:21 GMT
From: moore@profsc.fsl.noaa.gov (Mark Moore MOORE@FSL.NOAA.GOV)
To: lro@fslg8.fsl.noaa.gov
Subject: Expspensive fuses
>
> And where do most people mount the Blaupunkt? :-)
>
> monty
>
Following the adage that British headlamps will blow in order to
protect the fuse, the Blaupunkt is a most exspensive fuse. Exactly what
are you trying to protect? };-)
Mark
--0-
moore@fsl.noaa.gov
NOAA - Boulder, CO USA
1961 Land Rover 109 1974 Norton Commando
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Jun 14 15:13:43 1993
Return-Path: <sim1@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1993 16:02:37 -0500
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
From: sim1@cornell.edu (Steve MARGOLIS)
Subject: Re: misc rover rantings
>jory asked:
>
>anyone have info on the rover rally type thingy happening in maine later
>this month?
Here is the information as I (a former Maineiac) have it:
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
MID-COAST MAINE - JUNE 26TH, 27TH, 1993
"DOWNEAST" V
INTERNATIONAL LANDROVER RALLY
LandRover- RangeRover - Defender - Discovery - Rover cars
from Canada - United States - Europe
Saturday 6/26: Acadia National Park
Breakfast 7-9 a.m. Searsmont, Me. Evening BBQ at beach
Sunday 6/27: Airshow at Owls Head Transportation Museum, Owls Head, Me.
LandRover clubs - Companies - Awards - Buy - Sell - Swap - Trade
Information on "Downeast" and local accomodation contact:
Myles J. Murphy, RR2, Box 84, Lincolnville, Maine 04849, U.S.A.
There's also a note that the AROUND THE NEW WORLD IN 80 DAYS expedition
departs the Owls Head Trans. Mus. at 4:00 p.m. on Sunday.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
I wish it were in the cards for me to be there on Sunday. After all, Owls
Head is only about 15 or 20 miles from the location of my 1957 series I
Station Wagon (in kit form at present). If you go, say hello to Ted Howard
for me. He'll probably be there with a series I wagon that looks just like
mine will look someday (except the color). He may also be showing off a
series I pickup truck that he picked up about two years ago. I saw that
two years ago, the last time I was able to go to the show, but it was in
the yard of his garage (near mine) where he had towed it. I drove to his
garage in my car, where I picked up a 109 series II diesel powered pickup
truck to take to the show. He had driven there in the 107 wagon. After
you say hello to Ted for me, say hello to Ron and Bernie Mowry. They are
from West Lebanon, Me, in the Southwest corner of the state, and I imagine
still the Northeast Regional Co-ordinators of the Land Rover Owners
Association USA. Then find Frank DeLangton and his sons and say hello to
them for me, too. One of Frank's sons was the driver of the LandRover
pictured in the Rovers North newsletter some time back which had survived a
meeting with a Maine moose. (One of the few examples of Maine wildlife
bigger than the mosquitos.)
Steve Margolis, Cornell University, Ithaca is Gorges, NY
E-Mail to Steve-Margolis@Cornell.edu
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 16 12:17:13 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Cc: dhuddles@gandalf.ca
Subject: Tuesday night activities...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1993 23:19:00 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
Without a mighty <thunk> the petrol tank of the 109 has been
changed. The rusted, sludge filled tank from 1964 has been
replaced with a nice new tank of a much later vintage...
Replacing the tank went much smoother than could be imagined. The
two recessed bolts at the fore end of the tank came out without to
much difficulty (thank god), whiile the two rear bolts had to be
cut off with a grinder. Overall, the entire effort took about an
hour, much shorter than I had expected.
Surprisingly enough, once cleaned up, the fuel guage sender
actually works. I now have a general idea on how much fuel I
actually have. What a change this shall be from carrying about
several 20l army jerry cans to refill the one when it suddenly runs
dry.
Some observations... The new tanks supplied are a bit different.
The replacement tank has a second hole opposite the balancer pipe
and fuel siphon pipe hole. This hole is blocked off with a gasket
and plate, but I wonder which model it is used for. The hole for
the fuel sender is also a bit smaller. We had to cut an eighth of
an inch off to widen the hole to fit the 1964 sender. A third
difference is the lack of baffles inside the tank to limit the
amount of fuel that sloshes around.
The adapter plate for the winch was also retrieved from the dead
engine. The crank nut had to be drilled off, but now I am able to
fit the winch to the front of the 109 in preparation for some fun
this coming weekend... :-)
Rgds,
Dixon
'64 109
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 16 12:33:15 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Merseyside and wrong parts...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1993 11:23:11 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
Just a short note on the wrong silencer that I received from
Merseyside. I sent them off a fax, quoting my previous fax where I
described my Rover, serial number, et cetera and asking how they
could have goofed in such an excellent fashion. (In fact the fax
was sent off at 01:05 EST today)
At 10:02am this morning I had a voice call from Dave at Merseyside
who not only apologised for the error, but was shipping the correct
part airmail today at no charge. the swb silencer is mine to
dispose of as the cost of returning it is a wee bit high.
I must admit I am impressed with the prompt service and their
willingness to correct a problem. They have my business...
I figure that one might as well give credit where it is due, as we
also tend to rubbish firms that do not perform to satisfaction.
As for my lwb, a petrol tank gets changed tonight. News later on
describing how this effort went...
Rgds,
Dixon
A lwb itching to get into the mud this weekend! :-)
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 16 16:48:33 1993
Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu>
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 93 21:37:05 GMT
From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell)
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: new tank
dixon writes:
Some observations... The new tanks supplied are a bit different.
The replacement tank has a second hole opposite the balancer pipe
and fuel siphon pipe hole. This hole is blocked off with a gasket
and plate, but I wonder which model it is used for. The hole for
the fuel sender is also a bit smaller. We had to cut an eighth of
an inch off to widen the hole to fit the 1964 sender. A third
difference is the lack of baffles inside the tank to limit the
amount of fuel that sloshes around.
might the fuel siphon pipe hole be there to connect to a second tank placed
beneath the driver's (lhd) seat?? I have heard (thru this list) that one
can remove the toolbox (god forbid) and stick another tank in there (does the
exhaust pipe still clear???)
as for the lack of baffles-this is truely UNFORTUNATE, but then again i
suppose a rover is rarely subjected to side-to-side forces over a fraction
of a G.
rdushin
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 16 17:02:28 1993
Return-Path: <cak@parc.xerox.com>
To: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell)
Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Re: new tank
In-Reply-To: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu's message of Wed, 16 Jun 93 14:37:05 -0800.
<9306162137.AA22265@y1.sdsc.edu>
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1993 14:52:31 PDT
Sender: Chris Kent Kantarjiev <cak@parc.xerox.com>
From: "Chris Kent Kantarjiev" <cak@parc.xerox.com>
Another possiblity for the blocked off hole in Dixon's new tank is some
sort of evaporative recovery system, that tries to return unburned
fumes to the fuel supply.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 17 03:52:34 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: tank To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Thu, 17 Jun 93 9:40:17 BST The auxiliary tank theory has my vote as well.I've actually seen a 109 so fitted,and it had a filler cap both sides.The vehicle had been built in Oz,according to its works plate,and had found its way over here. So the extra blanked off holes could well be for LH fill.Incidentally,if the"god forbid" indicates a reluctance to sit on top of ten gallons of petrol,we do it all the time!I qiute thought up till now,that LHD Rovers had their tank on the opposite side to the RHD versions.Obviously not,so one lives and learns.Doesnt bother me,though,mines a diesel:-).....Well, there must be *some* advantages! Cheers Mike Rooth
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 17 05:21:52 1993
Return-Path: <daryl@rt2.menzies.su.edu.au>
From: daryl@rt2.menzies.su.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Tanks, tanks everywhere
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com (Land Rover Owners Group)
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 93 19:30:16 CST
Mike Rooth UK writes
> The auxiliary tank theory has my vote as well.I've actually seen a
> 109 so fitted,and it had a filler cap both sides.The vehicle had been
> built in Oz,according to its works plate,and had found its way over here.
This is a *Very* common modification over here, as are 75L (15 imp gal)
tanks. A few years back it was also possible to obtain tanks to suit 109
hardtops which fitted in front of the rear wheels but behind the
drivers/passengers seat, these were 45L (10 imp gal) tanks. Thus it was
possible to carry 240+L (50 gal) of fuel. If one was lucky enough to own a
late SIII V8, with constant 4x4, also sold in Oz with a 3.9 Isuzu diesel
option then all of these tanks could be fitted in addition to the standard
rear 70L station-wagon type tank. Of course you had to move the battery!
Owners reported that the fuel range was in the order of 1500 - 2000 Miles
with the diesel.
With this set up LRO's could snear at owners of Jap 4x4's, Unfortunately the
new 80 series Toyotas come standard over here with 190L tanks, and factory
accessory tanks are avail.
Still the Oz assembled Perentie 6x6 (based on the old 110/130 cab chassis) is
fitted with dual 75-80L tanks under the front seats, so maybe one could.....
.......
--
Daryl Webb (daryl@menzies.su.edu.au)
Darwin Australia (Kadadu Country)
ex 1966 SIIA 109 round roof.
Currently '82 SIII V8 county wagon (350,000 + Km and nearly stuffed :-(
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 17 09:58:06 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Tanks&Gauges To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Thu, 17 Jun 93 15:46:22 BST Thanks for clearing that one up,Daryl,but I have a question.How are these long-range tanks fitted up vis-a-vis the fuel gauge?Are they arranged so that the auxiliaries fill the "main" tank,and when its gauge starts to read less than full,youre looking for a filling station, or are there senders on each tank so that you can switch the gauge between them,or what?This aspect of long range Land Rovering has puzzled me for some time,because it is obviously necessary to know how much fuel you have left(even if you started out with a lot) particularly,I assume,in the outback,where suddenly finding you are down to *slightly* less than ten gallons would be likely to bring on an attack of mild panic.Any ideas? Cheers Mike Rooth
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 17 10:25:23 1993 Return-Path: <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> Subject: Re: Tanks&Gauges To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com (landy list) Date: Thu, 17 Jun 93 16:11:23 BST Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1] Mike Rooth asks about tanks and gauges on multiple installations. I have a tank under each front seat of my SWB (I knew there was a good reason why I'm a non-smoker). Each has a separate sender unit and fuel outlet. I have a switch on the seatbox by my ankles which is a two way petrol switch combined with a two way electrical switch. Switch to the right and the driver's fuel tank is connected to the pump and the corresponding sender to the gauge. Flip the switch and the passenger tank is used and its gauge read. I have an electric pump and switch tanks on the run if necessary, or just to check levels. The twin tanks (not electric fuel pump) were standard on the Military Lightweights, although standard procedure was to pull over to switch tanks, according to an ex-driver I know. Don't know what you do with three tanks... (invade Iraq ?? ;-)) Cheers, Steve.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 17 10:53:31 1993 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Thu, 17 Jun 93 15:41:14 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: god forbid the "god forbid" comment referred to two concerns: 1) being left WITHOUT a toolbox.........NO rover should be without a toolbox, and although you could mount one elsewhere, under the sear (seat, that is) is a convenient place for it (even though it is so damned small). 2) customizing your rover's body parts and thereby rendering it "box- stock-NOT". okokok--you can argue that an additional tank is an improvement-i will listen to that-but the concept of hacking away at the aluminium bothers me. (note: this concern has been bred into my blood from years of interest in older british bikes-bikes that are frequently hacked/chopped/or "bitsa-ed" away from their original state- perhaps i should just hop off of my (imaginary) ajs 7R and let it be.) rdushin
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 17 20:27:35 1993
Return-Path: <daryl@rt2.menzies.su.edu.au>
From: daryl@rt2.menzies.su.edu.au (Daryl Webb)
Subject: Re: tanks, gauges and the meaning of a stuff up
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com (Land Rover Owners Group)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 93 10:37:14 CST
In response to Mike Rooth's questions the answer is ... yes?
The small tanks which fit in front of the rear wheels do not normally have
provision for gauges but I'm sure you could fit them if you really needed to.
On my old '66 SIIA I had two tanks with gauges and two without. Fortunatly
this vehicle was not equiped with fuel return lines to the tank. I used two
3-way 3/8" LPG ball control valves. These are much more expensive than the
common brass type but are infinitely better. They dont leak, are made of
stainless and use a highly machined ball in a nylon socket as the control
mechanism, whats more they are rebuildable. These have the added advantage
that fuel flow can be completely stopped. Thus it was possible to set up
with only 2 control units and a Y piece joining them on the fuel pump side.
Each control unit had 3 positions Tank 1, Tank 2 and Off. When one tank was
selected on one valve the other was left in the off position.
Sounds much more complicated than it was.
The problem with this was that you had to manually select both tank and
gauge. Thus it was possible to have the gauge reading tank 2 whilst you
happily emptied tank 1, whilst marvelling at the remarkable fuel consumption.
After doing this a couple of times one quickly learnt to empty the tanks
without gauges first so that once fuel became a concern you at least had
some idea of how much was left.
The situation on the SIII V8 is both more complex and more idiot resistant.
As the V8 has fuel return lines to the tanks I didnt relish the thought of
twice as many control valves. The solution came in the form of Pollack fuel
change over solenoids. These electrically operated units are available with
3/8" and 1/4" lines in a common valve block and can switch between 2 tanks.
The Wagon has 3 tanks fitted all with senders, so...
I have two fitted, one selects between the rear tank and the fr5ont
auxillaries, the second between the left and right aux.
The neat trick is that the same switch which changes the fuel over can also
switch the gauge unit over. You simply get a double 2-way switch from any
electronics supply store (like tandys). On one side you provide the 12v
supply to the change over valve and the other the sender connections. You
then mount the switches in the dash board such that one toggles from left to
right an the other up and down and hey presto you always know which tank
you're using and how much fuel is left.
Of course you still have to remember to go to the filling station. :-(
--
| |
Daryl Webb (daryl@menzies.su.edu.au) \ /
Menzies School of Health Research \__/
P.O. Box 41096 || <<
Casuarina N.T. 0811 _-*_|\---------------------- * <<
Australia / \ || <<
Voice : 61_89_228196 \_.--._/ /||\
Fax : 61_89_275187 v * || o
/ || \
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 18 10:35:02 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Tool boxes and batteries To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Fri, 18 Jun 93 16:26:28 BST Its a good job youve not got a 11A diesel,Dushin,with the original bettery arrangement (battery).Not only would it not be possible to fit a reserve tank,you wouldnt have toolbox either!They were fitted with two 6v batteries,one under the bonnet,the other guess where. Cant for the life of me think WHY though.Fortunately mine had been "semi-rationalised" bfore I bought it and now has a thumping great 12v under the bonnet,*and* I've got my toolbox back.I say "semi" because some nerd had made up the battery leads from 440v earth cable,which got decidedly warm on start up each morning,due to the inadequate cross-section of the cable strands to take the current. It ended when I looked out of the windshield one morning while grinding the motor over and thought"hello,its got a bit foggy" followed by "this fog smells funny......aaaargh" and a mad scramble to put the fire out.Burnt out the cable and the starter solenoid. Start of a long saga of "nerd correction measures"that was. Trouble is the toolbox isnt big enough to carry al the tools I like to carry,but then I worry too much as well.Mind you I havent got to Dixon's state yet....carrying a spare engine:-) Like you I would be *very* reluctant to hack the panels about.Took a good three months to pluck up enough bottle to cut holes in the hardtop to put the rear windows in.Turned out that was the *easy* bit of *that* operation.*Much* better visibility though. Seen locally....1971 S111 petrol 88" with 6.00 by16 tyres on the front,and 7.50 by 16 on the back.Think about it. Cheers Mike Rooth :wq :wq
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 18 12:13:28 1993
Return-Path: <hiner@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu>
Posted-Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1993 11:25:55 -1812
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1993 11:25:55 -1812
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
From: hiner@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Greg Hiner)
Subject: Land Rover List
6/18/93
Here is a collected list of suppliers, dealers, and such pertaining
to the Land Rover. Please comment as to any typos and especially any
comments you would like to pass along as to the various suppliers
listed (so we can have an annotated list).
Greg - hiner@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu
Thanks to -
Paul Anderson - ACUS05@WACCVM.corp.mot.com
Lee Fisher - leefi@microsoft.com
Mark V Grieshaber - mvgrie@shute.monsanto.com
Bruce Harding - Bruce_Harding@ccm.hf.intel.com
Jory (last, first ?) - jory@Athena.MIT.EDU
Dixon Kenner - dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
Mike Rooth - M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk
Ross (last, first ?) - smb002@cent1.lancs.ac.uk
R. Glenn Stauffer - stauffer@cc.swarthmore.edu
Teriann J. Wakeman - twakeman@apple.com
******LAND ROVERS - RESTORED, USED, & PARTS (USA)******
----------
Atlantic British Ltd
Box 110 Rover Ridge Drive
Mechanicville, NY 12118
(800) 533-2210 Orders only
(518) 664-6169 Technical questions
(518) 664-6641 Fax
Free catalog
Lots of aftermarket parts
Many "oem" parts, but not Land Rover authorized
----------
B. Jones & Associates
(Brian Jones)
Import/Export Trading
23 N. West Street,
Allentown, PA 18102
(215) 437-6125
This company imports Land Rovers from England to order. Generally, they
handle pre-1968 vehicles, Series II and IIa 88" 3-door wagons, 109" 5-door
wagons, 2-door pickups, and 3-door wagons. They occasionally bring in
Series I 80" or 86" soft or hard-top vehicles. Other specialized models
can be ordered. (prices from 1.3.93)
Series IIa 109 gas $6300
diesel $6100
Series II 109 gas $6100
diesel $5900
----------
CARS
Camarillo, CA
(800) 882-1349
Maintains comprehensive product lines for the Jaguar, MG and Triumph. They
have recently added Range Rover parts.
----------
The British Northwest Land-Rover Co.
1043 Kaiser Rd. SW
Olympia, WA 98502
parts - (206) 866-2254
sales - (206) 866-2381
Bruce Harding writes: "When dealing with these folks you need to verify
costs and availabilities over the phone or you may be surprised.
Ask if an item is being back ordered or 'special' made."
He goes on to say: "After all this happened I sent out a message to the group
asking where people purchased their parts and NOBODY replied they used
this outfit. I then looked back over my invoice numbers to discover
they issue an average of 9 invoices a week over an 8 month period...
and several of these were return/backorder invoices of mine.
I can't believe they sell many LR's as their prices are extremely
high, although their LR's are very nice. I wonder how they stay in business."
Lee Fischer says: "I would go to great lengths to get parts/service
from any other Rover company that I've dealt with instead of these folks."
----------
D.A.P. Enterprises, Inc.
7 Kendrick Road
Wareham, MA 02571
(508) 291-1311
Range Rover and Land Rover parts & accessories
- warehouse distributors for Lucas & Girling
Jory reports some major problems with this outfit: "absolutely every
major component I sourced from DAP failed in some manner...
usually incurring greater costs than the original problem..." In particular
he had bad experience with road springs and rocker area hardware.
----------
Jim "Scotty" Howett
(510) 686-2255
Teriann Wakeman says: "He rebuilds diffs & can also probably send
you a number of used parts. And yes I believe he will do a mail order."
----------
Machina Locksmith
Al Kamishlan
3 porter street
Watertown, MA 02127
617-923-1683
mobile: 617-694-3990
Mainly of interest to you in the Eastern half of MA - Jory says that this guy
is a good locksmith and used to have a Rover.
----------
Nisonger
Victory Gardens, NJ
(800) 431-2496
Maintains comprehensive product lines for the Jaguar, MG and Triumph. They
have recently added Range Rover parts.
----------
Rovers North
Box 61 Route 128
Westford, VT 05494
(802) 879-0032
Authorized Land Rover parts supplier
Free catalog
Restoration program:
- Customer must sign up (no cost)
- Rovers North tracks your cumulative purchases - When you "cash out",
you receive a discount (7% to 20%) on future purchases based
on the amount you have purchased up to that point.
----------
Rover's West Eight Parts
4060 Michigan
Tucson, AZ 85714
(602) 748-8115
----------
Roverworks - New York
800-999-6402
Land Rovers available:
1959-1974 Full Restorations, All Components rebuilt
Base Model 88 $17,000 109 Regular $19,500 109 Safari $24,000
Used Models (currently importing a wide range of models from the UK. Prices
start at $5,000) (prices from 1.3.93)
1967 88 hardtop (VG) $ 8,000
1961 109 Safari $19,000
1967 109 Safari $12,000
Roverworks also sells restoration kits and new and rebuilt parts.
----------
Doug Shipman
503-252-5566
Bruce Harding says that this guy has a lot of used Land Rover parts.
He reports that many local people have used his services with good results.
******LAND ROVERS - PARTS (GREAT BRITAIN)******
----------
A.E.W Paddock Motors Ltd
The Showground
The Cliff
Matlock
Derbyshire DE4 5EW
Tel 0629 584499
Fax 0629 584498
----------
Demon Tweeks
Hugmore Lane
LLan-y-pwll
Wrexham Clwyd
United Kingdom
LL13 9YE
International phone number 44 978 664466
Fax: 44 978 664467
Ross says: "Weber make a complete range of both Weber and non Weber
service kits for most makes of carb. Kits include needle valves,
diaphragms, gaskets seals, idle screws, springs etc...
they do not include new jets however." These kits are available form the
above company. They may have Solex rebuild kits.
----------
Famous Four
Tattershall Way
Fairfield Industrial Estate
Louth
Lincolnshire LN11 0YA
Tel 0507 609444
Fax 0507 609555
----------
John Craddock Ltd.
70-76 North Street
Bridgtown
Cannock
Staffordshire WS11 3AZ
Tel 0543 577207 or 505408
Fax 0543 504818
----------
Merseyside Land Rover Services Ltd.
Bridge Industrial Estate
Speke Hall Road
Speke (Nr. Airport)
Liverpool L24 9HE
tel 051 486 8636
fax 051 486 5986
Dixon reported a problem with an order in that they sent him the wrong
part (silencer) - but he says that they cleared that up promptly and sent
him a new one (by air their cost) and let him keep the other part.
"I must admit I am impressed with the prompt service and their willingness
to correct a problem. They have my business... "
----------
P.A.Blanchard & Co.
Clay Lane
Shiptonthorpe
York YO4 3RU
Tel 0430 872765
Fax 0430 872777
Deal in ex-military spares & vehicles. Careful! may not fit
civilian versions
******MAGAZINES AND OTHER PUBLICATIONS******
LRO International c/o Mercury Airfrieght Int.
2323 Randolph Avenue
New Jersey 07001
Cost $70 US/year
also this address
LRO Publications LTD.
The Hollies, Botesdale,
Diss, Norfolk IP22 1BZ
UK
******LAND ROVER CLUBS******
Land Rover of North America (LRONA)
PO BOX 6836
OAKLAND CA 94603 USA.
Editor - Brad Blevins
2998 Atlantic St
Concord, CA 94518 USA
voice or fax (510) 687-1188.
******LAND ROVER DEALERS******
Andrew Cadillac Company (615) 373-3800
Maryland Farms
Brentwood, TN 37024
Aristocrat Motor Company, Inc (913) 677-3300
9400 West 65th Street
Shawnee Mission, KS 66203
Ascot Imported Cars, Inc. (412) 741-3300
418 Walnut Street
Sewickley, PA 15143
Autohaus Tischer, Inc (301) 498-7400
3225 Ft. Meade Road
Laurel, MD 20707
Automaster (802) 985-8482
Route 7 Box 220
Shelburne, VT 05482
Baker Motor of Charleston, Inc. (803) 577-3885
1081 Morrison Drive
Charleston, SC 29403
Barney Garver Motors (713) 869-4855
7025 Katy Road
Houston, TX 77024
Bauer Motors (714) 971-5550
2025 South Manchester Avenue
Anaheim, CA 92802
Baxter Chysler-Plymouth, Inc. (402) 493-7800
11910 West Dodge Road
Omaha, NE 68154
Benson Motor Company (504) 522-2365
2001 St. Charles Avenue
New Orleans, LA 70130
Berndt Classic Imports (414) 543-3000
2400 South 108th Street
Milwaukee, WI 53227
Bill Jacobs Motorsport, Inc. (708) 357-1200
1564 West Ogden Avenue
Naperville, IL 60566
Bluff City British Cars, Inc. (901) 743-4422
1810 B Getwell Road
Memphis, TN 38111
Bob Moore Cadillac, Inc. (405) 232-0381
400 North Walker
Oklahoma City, OK 73102
Brandywine Motor Cars, Inc. (215) 696-1220
715 Auto Park Boulevard
West Chester, PA 19382
British Motor Car Distributors, LTD (415) 776-7700
901 Van Ness Avenue
San Francisco, CA 94109
Carousel Automobiles (612) 544-9591
8989 Wayzata Boulevard
Minneapolis, MN 55426
Chaisson Motor Cars (702) 871-1010
2333 South Decatur Boulevard
Las Vegas, NV 89102
Cherry Hill Imports, Corp. (609) 665-5370
2261 Route 70 West
Cherry Hill, NJ 08002
Cole European (415) 935-2653
2103 North Main Street
Walnut Creek, CA 94596
Continental Cars Limited (808) 537-5365
1069 South Beretania Street
Honululu, HI 96814
Don Rasmussen Company (503) 226-0380
2001 SouthWest Jefferson Street
Portland, OR 97201
Don Snell Buick, Inc. (800) 231-3445
11400 North Central Expressway
Dallas, TX 75243
Fields Range Rover (407) 695-9100
265 North Highway 17-92
Longwood, FL 32750
Foreign Motors West, Inc. (508) 655-5350
235 North Main Street
Natick, MA 01760
Frankel Cadillac Company (410) 484-8800
201 Reisterstown Road
Baltimore, MD 21208
Fred Lavery Company (313) 645-5930
499 South Hunter Boulevard
Birmingham, MI 48009
Frederick Cadillac, LTD (206) 728-7900
2301 6th Avenue
Seattle, WA 98121
Gengras Motor Cars (203) 522-6134
One Weston Park Road
Hartford, CT 06120
Great Britains (215) 443-5900
Old York Road & Penn Turnpike
Willow Grove, PA 19090
Gregg Motors (805) 682-2000
402 South Hope Avenue
Santa Barbara, CA 93105
Grubbs European Motors, Inc. (817) 560-9000
2900 Alta Mere Drive
Fort Worth, TX 76116
Gunn Infinity/Range Rover (512) 824-1272
750 N.E. Loop 410
San Antonio, TX 78217
H.B.L., Inc. (703) 442-8200
8545 Leesburg Pike
Vienna, VA 22180
Haron Motor Sales (209) 237-5533
2222 Ventura Avenue
Fresno, CA 93721
Haywood-Clarke Rover (804) 379-3510
11650 Midlothian Pike
Midlothian, VA 23113
Hendrick Imports (704) 535-0885
6950 East Independence Boulevard
Charlotte, NC 28227
Hennessy Cadillac, Inc. (404) 261-5700
3040 Piedmont Road
Atlanta, GA 30305
Holiday Automotive, Inc. (806) 359-2886
4600 Canyon Drive
Amarillo, TX 79109
Holts House of Vehicles, Inc. (716) 334-0880
3925 West Henrietta Road
Rochester, NY 14623
Hornburg Jaguar, Inc. (213) 272-7737
9176 Sunset Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90069
Hornburg Jaguar, Inc. (213) 453-3377
3300 Olympic Boulevard
Santa Monica, CA 90404
Hubacher Cadillac, Inc. (916) 929-2777
#1 Cadillac Drive
Sacramento, CA 95823
Jack Kaplan's, LTD (401) 461-2000
206 Elmwood Avenue
Providence, RI 02907
Keller Motor Car Company (518) 785-4197
1111 Troy-Schnectady Road
Latham, NY 12110
Knauz Continental Autos, Inc. (708) 234-1700
1044 North Western Avenue
Lake Forest, IL 60045
Ladd Hanford Jaguar-Volvo (717) 272-9500
2247 West Cumberland Street
Lebanon, PA 17042
Larry Dimmitt Cadillac, Inc. (813) 797-7070
25191 U.S. Highway 19 North
Clearwater, FL 34623
Leith, Inc. (919) 876-5432
5601 Capital Boulevard
Raleigh, NC 27629
Lyle Pearson Company, Inc. (208) 377-3900
351 Auto Drive
Boise, ID 83709
Midwestern Auto Group (614) 889-2571
5016 Post Road
Dublin, OH 43017
Newport Imports, Inc. (714) 722-4000
3000 West Pacific Coast Highway
Newport Beach, CA 92663
Palm Beach Motor Cars (407) 659-6206
915 South Dixie Highway
West Palm Beach, FL 33401
Paul Miller, Inc. (201) 575-7750
250 U.S. Route 46
Parsippany, NJ 07054
Pepe Autos Ltd. (914) 949-4000
50 Bank Street
White Plains, NY 10606
Phillips Oldsmolbile, Inc. (804) 499-3771
4949 Virginia Beach Boulevard
Virginia Beach, VA 23462
Pioneer Centres (619) 695-3000
9020 Miramar Road
San Diego, CA 92126
Pioneer's Land Rover Centre (303) 920-9888
109 Aspen Airport Business Center
Aspen, CO 81611
Pioneer Centres, Inc. (303) 751-1500
2950 Havana Street
Aurora, CO 80014
Plaza Motor Company (314) 569-1311
11830 Olive Street Road
Creve Coeur, MO 63141
Prestige Motors, Inc. (201) 265-7800
405 Route 17
Paramus, NJ 07652
R.A.B. Motors, Inc. (415) 454-0582
540 Francisco Boulevard West
San Rafael, CA 94901
Land Rover Land (516) 674-8500
350 Glen Head Road
Glen Head, NY 11545
Range Rover of Darien (203) 655-7451
1335 Post Road
Darien, CT 06820
Range Rover-Clevland (216) 932-9460
3020 Mayfield Road
Cleveland Heights, OH 44118
Red Noland Cadillac, Inc. (719) 633-4633
1260 Motor City Drive
Colorado Springs, CO 80906
Riverside Motor, Inc. (501) 666-9457
1403 Rebsamen Road
Little Rock, AR 72202
San Jose British Motors (408) 246-7600
4040 Stevens Creek Boulevard
San Jose, CA 95129
Sandia Imports (505) 884-0066
3400 Menaul Boulevard NorthEast
Albuquerque, NM 87107
Schneider & Nelson, Inc. (908) 389-1000
270 Highway No. 36
West Long Branch, NJ 07764
Scott Motor Company (702) 826-0661
2401 South Virginia Street
Reno, NV 89502
Scottsdale Jaguar, LTD (602) 990-9000
6925 East McDowell Road
Scottsdale, AZ 85257
Shelton Imports, Inc. (813) 263-6070
850 North Tamiami Trail
Naples, FL 33940
South Bay Autohaus (310) 534-3333
3233 Pacific Coast Highway
Torrance, CA 90505
Symes Cadillac, Inc. (818) 795-3381
3475 East Colorado Boulevard
Pasadena, CA 91107
Terry York Motor Cars (818) 990-9870
15800 Ventura Boulevard
Encino, CA 91436
Tom Williams Motors, Inc. (205) 252-9512
2200 3rd Avenue South
Birmingham, AL 35233
Tom Wood Range Rover (317) 848-7447
3473 East 96th Street
Indianapolis, IN 46240
Volkswagen Intermountain - Range Rover (800) 748-4689
3711 South State Street
Salt Lake City, UT 84115
Warren Henry Automobiles, Inc. (305) 654-3900
20802 NorthWest 2nd Avenue
Miami, FL 33169
Willians Ford Sales, Inc. (513) 891-0500
9260 Montgomery Road
Cincinnati, OH 45242
Zumbach Sports Cars, LTD (212) 582-5613
629 West 54th Street
New York, NY 10019
Range Rover on Bay (416) 928-9096
76 Davenport Road
Toronto, Ontario M5R 1H3
Budd's Imported Cars (416) 845-1443
513 Speers Road
Oakvill, Ontario L6K 2G4
Automobiles Elegante (514) 374-6550
4350 Boulevard Metropolitain Est.
Montreal, Quebec H1S 1A2
David Morris Fine Cars, LTD (403) 484-9000
17210 103rd Avenue
Edmonton, Alberta T5S 1N1
Lone Star Inc. (403) 253-1333
100 Glendeer Circle, SouthEast
Calgary, Alberta T2H 2S8
MCL Motor Cars (604) 738-5577
1730 Burrard Street
Vancouver, British Columbia V6J 3G7
Chapman Motors Limited (902) 453-2110
3363 Kempt Road
Halifax, Nova Scotia B3K 4X5
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 18 12:33:51 1993 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Fri, 18 Jun 93 17:21:01 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: newly cut holes mike- as you know, i too have a "blindsides hardtop" on nigel.....here in the states (in ny state at least) the rules for commercial vs. passenger vehicles are not quite as absurd as in the motherland (actually, they are- but for some reason they do not apply-supposedly, ANY vehicle with a "removable top" is supposed to be registered as commercial, whereas only permanant tops and soft tops are permitted to be registered as passenger vehicles.....somehow the big-little brother (governor mario cuomo) has failed to realize that a rover top can be removed so easily, and he allows rovers to fall into the same classification as jeeps-ie passenger vehicles. i am not so sure how they'd treat a 109 pickup, though...just tell the lady at DMV "it is just like a jeep" and they'll never know..)-anyway, i read with angst about your cutting windows into your blindsides (and sympathized with your commercial vs. passenger woes) and am now releived to find that it took three full months at the bottle to work up the balls to do it. i am also sure that the extra visibility paysoff (having near ly trashed several new lexus' at the hands of impatient commuters who cannot wait for nigel to get back into the right lane where he belongs). hope (and trust) it looks stock, anyway, rdushin
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Jun 21 11:10:18 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: new tank
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1993 20:48:43 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu (dushin russell) writes:
> as for the lack of baffles-this is truely UNFORTUNATE, but then again i
> suppose a rover is rarely subjected to side-to-side forces over a fraction
> of a G.
Friday, I would have agreed with you. Today, after this weekend's
jaunt into the unfrozen forest I do. I went over enough rocks,
roots, and general non-flat terrain to get a good portion of the
contents in the petrol tank airborn within it. The vertical and
horizontal lurches can be quite something.
It will probably take a day or so to recover enough to write up the
weekend fun. Oh did we get stuck... The Saab pull was also
amusing, though some sleeping participants were unimpressed when we
started that one at 1:30am.
Rgds
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Jun 21 11:42:45 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: god forbid
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1993 20:55:59 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu (dushin russell) writes:
> 1) being left WITHOUT a toolbox.........NO rover should be without
> a toolbox, and although you could mount one elsewhere, under the sear
> (seat, that is) is a convenient place for it (even though it is so
> damned small).
One could build quite a list. If you are going off-road a tuggum
strap, chain, hooks etc. are also major requirements. At least
where we go... :-) I always keep a towing cable in all of my
vehicles, but then again I carry most of a spare car with me
anyway... :-)
> 2) customizing your rover's body parts and thereby rendering it "box-
> stock-NOT".
I would, and actually am, going to customise the front bumper on my
109. Off shall come the stock one, and on shall go one made of 6"
channel steel. Three Rovers got a bit near to trees this week. At
even very slow speeds the ends of the front bumper bent like a
pretzel and were a pain, especially when that section of bumper is
driven into the tire. The replacement will be a bolt on job, as
welding a new bumper on seems to be rather final...
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Jun 22 03:29:41 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Lifeboat To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Tue, 22 Jun 93 9:22:06 BST .......Carry most of a spare car...... Heh heh,picture Dixon in a 109" with a Mini neatly stowed on davits on the stern...:-):-) Mike
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Jun 22 05:29:11 1993 Return-Path: <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> Subject: heavy bumpers To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com (landy list) Date: Tue, 22 Jun 93 11:01:26 BST Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1] dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca: > I .... going to customise the front bumper on my 109. Off shall come the sto > one, and on shall go one made of 6" channel steel.....very slow speeds the en > of the front bumper bent like apretzel and were a pain, especially when that > section of bumper is driven into the tire. Yes, I know what you mean. I have a heavy bumper on the front of mine too. Do bear in mind however the LR designers knew perfectly well that their light guage open section bumpers were going to bend - this saves bending the frame when you hit something. Just a word of warning in case you weren't aware. Cheers, Steve.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Jun 22 11:18:52 1993 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Tue, 22 Jun 93 16:03:52 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: taxes mike- 1) on the contrary, "blindsides" hardtops seem to be the odd bird-i have only seen 1 (nigel). safari tops (with skylights, heat deflector, and sliding windows) seem to be slightly less common than regular hardtops (sans skylights and heat deflector, but with sliding side windows). softops also appear to be quite rare these days (in these parts)....but in my opinion no hardtop is as much fun to drive about in than a softop with the sides and rear rolled up in the summer months. 2) as for taxes and registration fees.....they vary from state to state, but in ny they are dependent upon several factors-type of registration, vehicle weight, and cost. it is difficult to decipher just what the charges are from looking at my registration (one just pays the bill and gets on with it) as there is an "annual charge" figure as well as an "amount paid" figure (the latter, of course, being the bigger of the two). furthermore, in this state over the past several years there have been many changes to the system as they struggle to raise more funds (that the state claims is needed for highway improvement-but we all THOUGHT that was what all that extra gas tax was going for........). as far as i can tell this is the breakdown: flat rate for registration: as of 5/92 it was $17.25 (for one of my vehicles registered passenger, not a rover but the same weight, roughly), but as of 7/92 it was $20.75 (nigel, registered as a passenger rig)-go figure(?). these are annual figures, incidentally, and you pay double this for a two year registration (required in this state-supposedly cuts down on paper work for them, but they upped the rate at the same time as they made this change-the less for more phenonmenon). for commercial plates, the figure as of 7/90 (which i believe corresponded to the 5/92 figure above-ie it probably went up by 7/92) was $30.00. on top of this you pay extra for a vehicle being registered for the first time . this depends upon the price paid for the vehicle, or its "blue book" value, whichever is less (nice guys!). there is no blue book value for a 1960 land rover (and probably not for any others either) so they just had to take my word for it (and you can probably guess what i told them.....). i think you might also pay extra "fees" that are not disclosed on my reg. they might be based upon weight (?), or they might be a flat fee. these fees are the states way of raising extra money without having to say that the cost of registering your vehicle went up..... i do suppose i should quit complaining, because you do seem to have it much worse than we do wrt the TAXMAN. condolances, rdushin
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 23 04:01:57 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Lifeboat
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 1993 23:47:27 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> writes:
> .......Carry most of a spare car......
> Heh heh,picture Dixon in a 109" with a Mini neatly stowed on davits
> on the stern...:-):-)
Give me half a chance and a Moke... :-)
Rgds,
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 23 04:12:50 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: heavy bumpers
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 1993 23:28:27 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> writes:
> Yes, I know what you mean. I have a heavy bumper on the front of mine too.
> bear in mind however the LR designers knew perfectly well that their light
> guage open section bumpers were going to bend - this saves bending the frame
> when you hit something. Just a word of warning in case you weren't aware.
I am aware of the problems inherent with changing to a *solid*
front bumper, thus the necessary design requirement that any
replacement be bolt on for a quick change over depending on the
application. In the bush, a solid front bumper is a requirement
for the jarring into trees and other sundry things that I should
avoid. When in the bush, there is also the need for some sort of
solid mounting piece for the pto winch, hooks for chain and tow
straps for vehicle extracation.
I see no need to needlessly destroy a fine LR bumper in our regular
foreys into the unfrozen tundra when a temperary replacement would
suit the situation to a far more useful extent.
Maybe it is being a bit spoiled by having access to land that we
can really play and push our vehicles to the limit. "Tread
Lightly" on this land is certainly not the operational view
considering the canals we have churned out in sections. We have
managed to bury our Rovers past the frames in attempts to ford
beaver dams, bog, rock faces etc. (other ventures we do take great
attention to leaving a little a trace as possible on our passage,
we are not lunatic environmental terrorists...). We have vehicles
that were designed to handle horrible conditions, and some of us
enjoy seeing what these limits may be without damaging our
vehicles.
As for this eveings efforts, the dead engine out of the 109 has
been stripped to the bare block in preparation of a complete
rebuilt. I note that the "Made in China" engine stand will not
mount a Land Rover block, so a game of blocks of wood and frequent
turning was required to strip the block. Our only stupidity was to
try and drive the pistons out from the bottom. We nicked the two
centre pistons quite well when they hit the flange before we got
our act together.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 23 09:26:50 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: bumpers To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Wed, 23 Jun 93 15:16:49 BST Dixon, I'm afraid I dont follow your reasoning here.If you clout something, be it in bush or backstreet,and clout it hard enough,the bumper will bend.if the bumper is so strong it *wont* bend,something else will. Like the front chassis leg.Similarly with winch mounting points.Well, not exactly,but the same principal.How about straightening the bent bumper and using *that* off-road (it already bolts on) and getting another for best?At least that way everything stays within the design parameters.Trouble with every part being of equal strength is you get the Parson's dog-cart syndrome.Carriagemaker biult the Parson a dog cart to this principle,it went for years,and finally all parts failed together,and it collapsed in a heap of dust!History doesnt record who M was the most surprised,the Parson or the horse. Cheers Mike was the most surprised,the Parson or the horse.
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 23 09:58:01 1993 Return-Path: <smb002@central1.lancaster.ac.uk> Via: uk.ac.lancaster.central1; Wed, 23 Jun 1993 15:41:19 +0100 From: Ross <smb002@cent1.lancs.ac.uk> Subject: bumpers To: lro@transfer.stratus.com (lro) Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1993 15:41:35 +0100 (BST) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Length: 84 How much are new bumpers out there anyway - they're only about 20 pounds over here!
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 23 10:46:59 1993 Return-Path: <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> From: Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> Subject: exhausting To: land-rover-owner@transfer.stratus.com (landy list) Date: Wed, 23 Jun 93 16:35:41 BST Mailer: Elm [revision: 64.9.hplb.1] Does anyone else with a swb softtop have problems with the exhaust gases being sucked back in thro' the open rear canvas door? When I travel on the open road I can smell exhaust fumes if I have the rear flap/door open; no fumes if I don't. Off-road there's no problem either. If I also put the sides up the problem disappears too. So it seems to me that there is some swirling effect, similar to that found on estate cars where exhaust fumes/road grime etc is thrown back into the back of the vehicle. BTW the exhaust is a shortened RR one exiting in a 2 inch pipe behind the nearside (this is UK) wheel. Anyone experienced the same, or better still have a solution? Cheers, Steve. V8 Lightweight
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 23 10:53:20 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Bits and Panels To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Wed, 23 Jun 93 16:44:06 BST Ross, Which reminds me,talking of bumpers,did you get your replacement panels from Craddocks? Any good? Mike
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 23 11:16:08 1993 Return-Path: <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> From: Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> Subject: Exhausting To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Wed, 23 Jun 93 17:05:27 BST Steve, I get this effect on my hardtop,the back surface *always* has a layer of diesel on it when I clean it(Oh god,should I have admitted that I clean it?)My tailpipe comes out behind the offside rear wheel.I reckon the only way I could get rid of it would be to somehow get the tailpipe to exhaust at the back,mebbe pointing down towards the road.Or maybe just an elbow on the existing pipe to deflect the gases down would do.I think some Halfords type shops used to sell chrome tailpipe "trims" that did this.If the gases hit the road,I reckon that the "wash" from the mudflaps would make them clear the vehicle.Well its a thought. Cheers Mike
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 23 11:19:41 1993 Return-Path: <u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@Sdsc.Edu> Date: Wed, 23 Jun 93 16:10:18 GMT From: u10122%y1.sdsc.edu@sdsc.edu (dushin russell) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: exhausting Steve- Although it has been quite sometime since I've been in a softop (the farm rig was long ago converted to a hardtop, unfortunately) I do recall this rear-entry exhaust phenomenon quite well. It may be unavoidable but- -does your exhaust exit from the side or the rear? -if it exits from the side does the pipe extend to the outside of the wheelwell? -does this thing pass emmissions inspection? Only got two solutions for ya, neither is to be taken seriously- 1) Make yourself an elaborate set of fins and spoilers to alter the aerodynamics (ie lack of) on your rover. 2) Slow down. oh well, ya might have to live with this one. rdushin
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 23 13:58:18 1993 Return-Path: <burns@cisco.com> From: Russell Burns <burns@cisco.com> Subject: Re: heavy bumpers To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Wed, 23 Jun 93 11:49:00 MDT In-Reply-To: <5HVk6B1w165w@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca>; from "dixon kenner" at Jun 22, 93 11:28 pm Yea, but those range rover bumpers suck when yoneed to use a jack. I am thinking aboutbuilding a HD rear bumper form my RR so I can us my sheepherders jack, and carry some extra fuel. The one good point with the light bumpers is that they beat back into shape fairly easily. Russ Burns deranged rover > > Steve Methley <sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com> writes: > > > Yes, I know what you mean. I have a heavy bumper on the front of mine too. > > bear in mind however the LR designers knew perfectly well that their light > > guage open section bumpers were going to bend - this saves bending the frame > > when you hit something. Just a word of warning in case you weren't aware. > > I am aware of the problems inherent with changing to a *solid* > front bumper, thus the necessary design requirement that any > replacement be bolt on for a quick change over depending on the > application. In the bush, a solid front bumper is a requirement > for the jarring into trees and other sundry things that I should > avoid. When in the bush, there is also the need for some sort of > solid mounting piece for the pto winch, hooks for chain and tow > straps for vehicle extracation. > > I see no need to needlessly destroy a fine LR bumper in our regular > foreys into the unfrozen tundra when a temperary replacement would > suit the situation to a far more useful extent. > > Maybe it is being a bit spoiled by having access to land that we > can really play and push our vehicles to the limit. "Tread > Lightly" on this land is certainly not the operational view > considering the canals we have churned out in sections. We have > managed to bury our Rovers past the frames in attempts to ford > beaver dams, bog, rock faces etc. (other ventures we do take great > attention to leaving a little a trace as possible on our passage, > we are not lunatic environmental terrorists...). We have vehicles > that were designed to handle horrible conditions, and some of us > enjoy seeing what these limits may be without damaging our > vehicles. > > As for this eveings efforts, the dead engine out of the 109 has > been stripped to the bare block in preparation of a complete > rebuilt. I note that the "Made in China" engine stand will not > mount a Land Rover block, so a game of blocks of wood and frequent > turning was required to strip the block. Our only stupidity was to > try and drive the pistons out from the bottom. We nicked the two > centre pistons quite well when they hit the flange before we got > our act together. > > Rgds, > > Dixon > > > -- > dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca > FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada >
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 24 01:47:02 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: bumpers
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1993 19:09:51 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
Mike Rooth <M.J.Rooth@lut.ac.uk> writes:
> I'm afraid I dont follow your reasoning here.If you clout something,
> be it in bush or backstreet,and clout it hard enough,the bumper will
> bend.if the bumper is so strong it *wont* bend,something else will.
Very true, but in the bush, when you do hit something it will be at
under 5mph usually. Where there are obstacles, one tends to go
fairly slowly. The standard LR bumper will not hold very well at
these speeds (well, maybe a bit faster...) considering the mass
behind. The chap who will make it for me, is well aware of this
problem and will make it in a fashion so it will bend over a
certain speed.
Part of the method behind my madness is that my front bumper thus
far is in excellent shape. I would like to keep it this way, thus
the idea of a heavier replacement for the woods.
Rgds,
Dixon
--
dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca
FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada
From shute!@mtcamm.monsanto.com:car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 24 01:47:16 1993
Return-Path: <@mail.uunet.ca:sandelman.ocunix.on.ca!aficom!fourfold!dixon@micor>
To: lro@transfer.stratus.com
Subject: Technical advice sought...
From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1993 20:35:58 -0400
Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada
Looking through my library of books, I seem to be missing the
popular title "Tuning your Land Rover". This book, like that other
popular title "Tuning your Mini" details how to turn your stodgy
Land Rover into a lean, mean racing machine (at least in the
muskeg... :-)). As this title is unobtainable, probably because it
doesn't exist, yet, I must fall upon my fingertips and seek the
advice of the list on how to proceed with my diabolical plans.
I wish to rebuild the dead 2.25l engine into something that truly
purrs. To this end, I shall have the crank balanced, should
probably purchase four