From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 31 95 Aug EDT 1903 Date: 31 Aug 95 03:56:03 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Tires for Range Rovers? > share regarding alternate tires for the Range Rover, particularly > wider tires than the 205. ... > My requirement is for driving in *very* deep, soft sand. The 205's > work OK however I have been in some scary situations with them even Rick, I have done extensive experimenting with tires on a RR plus raising the beast. The big problem with Range Rovers, especially the more recent models, are the very tight, snug wheelarches which are supposed to give this car its elegant sedan-like appearance while at the same time allowing for sufficient axle and wheel articulation offroad. The result is a construction which severely limits the size and type of tyres you can use without major modifications to suspension and body. I tried out a variety of springs, shocks, propshaft extensions, and 6 or 7 different types of tires; some worked, others didn't, and some caused outright damage. Based on my experiences, the conclusions are: If you want to fit anything alse than the standard 205/75 tires and at the same time do *not* want to cut away parts of the wheel arches you must at the very least fit the strongest, highest stock springs available for the RR, being the front diesel springs and the rear HD english police spec. springs (don't have the parts numbers at hand but I can give them to you if you're really interested). The spoiler, if fitted, must either be removed or 1 1/2" must be cut away at the inner ends. Having done this, the maximum you can fit is 225/75 or, at the very most, 235/75. With an additional minor modification, i.e. raising the rear suspension by an additional inch via a distance piece between spring and top spring mount, and bending around the sharp inner rear wheelarch edge, you can also squeeze in 235/85 (equivalent to 7.50x16). But that's where it ends. And in all cases you will have to adjust and limit steering lock so the wheels won't brush against the radius arms on full lock. Anything wider/bigger *will cause damage* when the axles go on full articulation offroad. Don't be fooled by Range Rover yuppie cruisers with big fat monster tires. The most articulation those cars ever get is running up a curb, and even that is done very carefully. Since you want to drive in deep sand you definitely don't want an aggressive tread. A used, 3/4 bald, wide tire at minimum inflation pressure would actually be ideal. The Michelin XS are excellent but very expensive, and useless on tarmac (loud and fast-wearing, wander). BFG All-Terrains are a good compromise. There have been extensive tire discussions on the list, maybe someone has a thread archived or FAQed and can forward it - I don't. Stefan From Mike Rooth Thu Aug 31 9:36:29 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 9:36:29 BST From: Mike Rooth Subject: Re: Not specifically relaed to Rovers, but... > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net [ truncated by lro-digester (was 16 lines)] > to me that this would be a good one... > Pardon the digression, Alan Dead easy! You dont even have to go to a scrapyard.You just find someone that makes number plates,tell 'em what you want and hand over the readies.Depends on the style though.Before(I think)'73, correct me if I'm wrong folks,the plates were silver letters on a black ground.Or white letters on a black ground.These can still be had for vehicles of the appropriate age.As soon as I've got some spare cash(I wish!)mine will have such a set.Later ones are black letters on a white ground at the front,black letters on a yellow ground at the rear.And there is square or oblong.Series Rovers with headlights in the rad grille panel would typically have square plates front and rear,the white or silver on black variety, the front one screwed to one front wing under the sidelights,the rear one under the rear lights.Late 11A and 111,with headlights in the wings,like my 11A,have an oblong one fastened above the front bumper,centrally,and a square one under the rear lights. Take your pick! Cheers Mike Rooth From Mr Ian Stuart Thu Aug 31 09:45:19 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 09:45:19 +0000 From: Mr Ian Stuart Subject: Re: UK registrations On 30 Aug 95, Duncan Brown wrote: > Anyway, with the very orderly, if somewhat confusing, rules for > British plates, what can we tell about the Lotus 7 driven by Patrick > McGoohan as "The Prisoner"? It was KAR 120C Area: AT - no idea year: C - see earlier post... (mid 60's) ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. or From Mr Ian Stuart Thu Aug 31 10:15:36 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 10:15:36 +0000 From: Mr Ian Stuart Subject: Re: Right-of-ways On 30 Aug 95, Alexander P. Grice wrote: > While us folks in the US have witnessed the reduction of off-roading > opportunities through closure of national forest trails, I never realized [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] > the front door, through the kitchen and out the back door. Apparently, > *going around* the house was not even considered. Sheesh.... Ah, the problems of "rights of way" and "Tresspass". Under Scottish law, there is no "right of way", nor is there "tresspass" - if you insist on travelling some route, you must make reparation for "damaged caused". There would be no right of way through a house and the walkers (each of them!) would have to pay for repairs to the home-owners. ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. or From Mike Rooth Thu Aug 31 11:26:56 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 11:26:56 BST From: Mike Rooth Subject: Uncle Joe Strikes Again! Now *there's* a subject heading to strike fear into the stoutest heart!And you can all come back!Cowards! The problem is as follows: Two vehicles,my '70 88" diesel,and a friends '67 88" petrol,mine with headlamps in wings,his with them in the proper place.Both have the same fault,developed independantly(or perhaps not,they have been parked next to each other).The indicator warning lamp(the little green one housed in the switch unit with the rubber tyred cancelling wheel in it)is on all the time. Mine glows faintly,his is at full brilliance.Turn off the electrics,light goes out.Use the indicators,lamp goes out,then flashes normally. Remove the earth from the switch unit,lamp goes out, as would be expected,since the circuit has been broken. Looking at the circuit diagram(Yes,I did,just goes to show how desperate we are getting),the only place the lamp can get a feed from is the flasher unit itself. Does anyone know whether the flasher unit has a separate contact for the warning lamp,which may not be fully opening "at rest" so to speak.Or indeed, before we both start ripping our respective dash panels apart,has anyone any other bright ideas? I might add,mine has been this way for about a year,and that we are talking home market vehicles here.The NADA circuit diagram definitely *does* show a separate feed for the warning light.The home market one doesnt. Just shows a single wire from the flasher unit O/P to the switch. Any contributions gratefully received.Particularly in my mates case,since he's getting a bit bored driving round with a bright green light glaring evilly at him all the time.His wife says it makes him look like th Thing from Twenty Thousand Fathoms, and its frightening the dog. Cheers Mike Rooth From Tom Stevenson Thu Aug 31 12:36:06 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 12:36:06 +0100 (BST) From: Tom Stevenson Subject: UK Reg plates The advantage of having a Q-plate is that your vehicle is exempt from the new MOT emissions tests, or at least it is in our local garage. -- Tom Stevenson: gbfv08@udcf.gla.ac.uk University Marine Biological Station, Isle of Cumbrae, Scotland Tel:(01475) 530581 Fax:(01475) 530601 From azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Thu Aug 31 12:41:24 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 12:41:24 UNDEFINED From: azw@aber.ac.uk (Andy Woodward) Subject: Tyres and Rims >> Tyres on the 16" rims should always be fitted with tubes. The rim is not > >designed for a tubeless tyre and doesn't have the bead retainer that stops > >you peeling the tyre from the rim under heavy side loads. With radials be > I just bought 5 brand-new 16" Land Rover Genuine wheels (well, OK, > Dunlop makes 'em, but they came with a Land Rover piece of cardboard > >stuck in the center!) I was told they were intended for use with > tubeless tires. Does your statement above apply only to the > original (1960's/70's) wheels, or also the brand new ones? My 1984 90 is on the original 16 inch rims. It has 3 tubes on, but the tyre place put a tubeless on the 4th corner before I checked. It works fine. From Haas Thu Aug 31 14:13:01 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 14:13:01 +0000 (BST) From: Haas Subject: Welding Land Rover chassis... I have just been told by a chap who runs an independent Land Rover repair business in SE London that Land Rover chassis are constructed from a high-carbon steel which becomes brittle when arc-welded, and that I should therefore use a MIG when welding my new front chassis legs on. A friend who has professional welding training agrees that if the chasssis is made of such steel, the advice given is sound. The question I have is: is this true? Is my LR chassis made from high-carbon steel (it's a 1970 LWB)? If so, is it possible to buy suitable rods which would allow arc-welding without the aforementioned embrittlement? I ask because I don't particularly want to buy a MIG at the moment, hiring is too much bother (arranging transport, planning exactly when to do it...and then it rains all day!) and is relatively poor value for money. Thanks for any advice. Marcus. (1970 109 2.25 petrol Station Wagon, now severely denuded...) From Mike Rooth Thu Aug 31 15:01:16 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 15:01:16 BST From: Mike Rooth Subject: Returned mail: User unknown (fwd) Forwarded message: >From Mailer-Daemon Thu Aug 31 14:57 BST 1995 From ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov Thu Aug 31 9:57:34 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 9:57:34 EDT From: ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov Subject: Re: Transmission Brake Rehab I. Harper asks how to remove the transmission brake hub... I have just completed this operation. If your brake is as well lubricated as mine was, it should slide right off. Sounds to me like something is binding, or the proper fasteners haven't been removed. Don't worry about losing the bolts into the transfer case. They are retained by a flange on the driving member. By the way, don't lose the all-metal lock nuts. They are a weird size - 5/16 20 or 22 pitch. Right in between a course and fine thread. If all six bolts have been removed and it still won't come off, try this: Remove the 4 U-joint keeper bolts and loosen the prop shaft. These bolts are retained as well, as you shall soon see. Remove the castellated nut from the output shaft. Now the whole shooting match will slide right off. You can then un-contort yourself and crawl out from under your truck and figger out why the dang thing won't come apart while your body is in a normal position and the light is better. The next thing you should do is pry out the old output shaft seal, take it down to the local bearing store, and buy a replacement. This rascal is undoubtedly why the transmission brake is shot anyway. Check the wearing surface on the shaft. If there is a groove you can catch your fingernail in, get a speedy sleeve and fit it. Bearing store will have this, too. Take the driving member with you to ensure right size is acquired. I found it very useful to remove the backing plate and completely degrease at this point. Remove and clean mechanism of adjuster and expander. Lightly lube with grease before refitting. If you disassemble the oil catcher from the inside of the backing plate, note you will need a new gasket. I made my own, and now have enough gasket material left over to last 5 or 10 years, acquired at a cost of $1.50. You'll also need a new felt washer for the output shaft. Good idea to keep some of those things laying around. Degrease the speedometer housing on the transfer box while you're at it. NOTE THIS: I was most surprised to find that there is a groove machined in the bottom of the housing designed to drain oil away from the oil catcher via the OUTSIDE of the backing plate. (Pretty swift, huh?) Mine was completely gunked up with dirt/oil/mud that it heretofore had gone unnoticed, and blocked. You can bet I will make sure that sucker remains open from now on. To quote Mr. Haynes. "Reassembly is the reverse of removal." Factory manual sez don't tighten up adjuster bolts right away. turn adjuster so that shoes are firmly against hub and are centered. Then tighten nuts. Back off on adjuster a couple of clicks, and the hub should turn. Lifting one wheel slightly off of the ground help in the adjustment process. Or leave the prop shaft unhooked until brake is adjusted. Just don't try it parked on a hill. Torque castellated nut to 85 ft/lb. Good luck. Scott Fugate 1970 IIA 1989 Range Rover BT From Easton Trevor Thu Aug 31 08:30:00 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 08:30:00 DST From: Easton Trevor Subject: EZ Bleed and Number Plates As posted previously, I used a modified reservior cap and small pump to pressurise the reservior which then allows you to go from wheel to wheel and bleed until fluid runs clear. Be sure to keep the fluid level up in the reservior or you'll be starting over with a system full of fresh air. A really handy pump is the Mityvac kit which can be used to suck or blow and has multiple uses outlined in the manual that comes with it. eg tune ups, brake servos, etc If you are lucky maybe some of our British subscribers could send you old plates. An alternative is to purchase a new set from any one of various suppliers, see UK auto mags. This way you could even have a vanity plate! Trevor Easton From Russell Burns Thu Aug 31 7:51:21 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 7:51:21 PDT From: Russell Burns Subject: Oil issues Since filling sumps with oil is a major passtime for landrover owners. I was wondering if any one had some easy/clean method for defying gravity, and pumping oil into our beloved Land-Rovers. My current method is to use a cheap plastic pump which tends to blow the filler hose off, and takes a lot of arm work. Any one out ther have an easier way ??? Thanks Russ From DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Thu Aug 31 08:00:30 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 08:00:30 MST From: DEBROWN@SRP.GOV Subject: Discovery A/C... Dual air. FROM: David Brown Internet: debrown@srp.gov Computer Graphics Specialist * Mapping Services & Engr Graphics PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486 SUBJECT: Discovery A/C... Dual air. Some have complained about the Discovery's A/C being "wimpy". Well, it's not the best, (I live in Arizona where it gets to over 120 degrees F, 45 Celcius?) I had dual air, and noticed that with the rear A/C turned on, the air blowing out of the front vents was not as cold as when the rear A/C was turned off. Just an observation... #=======# Never doubt that a small group of individuals |__|__|__\___ can change the world... indeed, it's the only | _| | |_ |} thing that ever has. "(_)""""""(_)" -Margaret Mead From Andrew Grafton Thu Aug 31 16:51:14 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 16:51:14 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Welding LR chassis... I've drilled, cut and welded a few LR chassis now... It certainly worked like mild steel. Either that or *very* special high-carbon steel, that is stronger than mild steel but retaining the same working properties! (I wish). Attempt at explanation follows; correct if wrong, anyone! When welding anything you create a heat-effected region that will be stronger but more brittle than the surrounding metal. The more carbon there is in the steel, the more this effect shows itself. The heat-effected region causes stresses that can lead to premature failure of the component, usually in the heat-effected but otherwise unaltered material on either side of the weld itself... Welding up high-carbon steel by any method is usually followed by heat-treatment to relieve the residual stresses and return the metal to its prior state with the carbon finely and evenly distributed within the iron. I'm not sure how using MIG welding will alter this although MIG tends to heat the base metal less than stick welding, and is (depending on the operator) usually less likely to leave slag inclusions in the weld. If I wanted to weld hi-carbon steel without heat treatment, I'd consider using oxy-acetylene and letting it cool slowly. Perhaps this is the wrong approach? In summary, tho' If your Landrover chassis isn't mild steel, I'd be surprised. Even if it isn't, there must be half a million out there with major chassis work undertaken with stick arc welding machines. And mild steel rods. Perhaps Landrover will confirm the chassis material? All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk From "Tom Rowe" Thu Aug 31 10:52:45 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 10:52:45 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: Oil issues Russell Burns asks: > Since filling sumps with oil is a major passtime for landrover owners. > I was wondering if any one had some easy/clean method for defying [ truncated by lro-digester (was 7 lines)] > blow the filler hose off, and takes a lot of arm work. > Any one out ther have an easier way ??? Back when I did more automotive work than I do now, I got a couple of pumps for lube oil. One from Sears the other I don't remember where, but Central Tractor sells them I know. Also most auto parts houses can get them. They were about $20 US and fit on a 5gal pail of lube. I used them mostly for gear oil. They have a metal cover that replaces the pail lid. A extendable center tube fits down into the pail and has a manualy operated pump on the top. A hose about 5 feet long ends in a u-shaped metal tube that fits nicely in filler holes. These will also fit 30 gal drums if you have *really* bad leaks. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Thu Aug 31 11:28:30 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 11:28:30 EST From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Subject: Discovery Rear A/C & Taillights Just replaced the RH taillight assy on 95 Discovery. It was necessary to undo the upper hinge points of the jumpseat -- no big deal, but your access to change a burnt out bulb is the same. Seems like the rear A/C would make changing a bulb in the LH side even worse. If the rear A/C is nothing more than some ductwork and a fan (no compressor), and since it forces LH jumpseat out into the cargo area several inches, I'm glad I didn't elect to get the rear A/C. Hank From NADdMD@aol.com Thu Aug 31 12:17:29 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 12:17:29 -0400 From: NADdMD@aol.com Subject: Dings in a new Galvinized Frame: Follow-up Bother! This is the second attempt at this note. The first was eaten by the AOL mail server. No back up copy. 1. I'd like to thank everyone who sent me input. I learned a great deal about frame evaluation. 2. Last night I spent a fair amount of time measuring all the factory specs on the frame, including diagonals. In addition, I ran the frame with a framing square looking for possible problems not detected by measurement alone. Today, I called my local garage (they work on ALL our vechicles from the Ford tractor to the 1963 Dodge horse van to a 1986 Volkswagen GTI, to our 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee. They are presently doing some work on my 67 88" SIIa. They say "It's sorta like them old Jeeps we used ta see. It's got them front axles like Toyota uses.") I HIGHLY recommend them not only for LR's but any other vehicle with a four stroke engine. (For anyone in the Baltimore Region who wants their name/number, just e-mail me). Their opinion: " If it measures out to spec and is square, AND the damage is out at the end of the support AND there's no visible damage to the galvinized coating, don't worry about it." In their experience, when done correctly, galvinized heavy gauge steel can be pounded nearly to a 45 degree angle without cracking the coating. They also felt that in more cases than not, minor damage was to be expected on chasses that are shipped. 3. As for Atlantic British, I was quite satisfied with their response to this whole situation. They suggested without prompting that I check the squareness and dimentsions of the frame. Further, they faxed me the factory specs. They were not opposed at all to return of the frame or to the possibility of replacement of outriggers which were damage. All they asked was to check the frame first. In addition, they provided this all in writing which they also faxed to me. Again, I found their customer service very acceptable. 4. AB imports the frame from England, it came with my brake drum shipment. 5. Boring MD is in northern Baltimore County, up where foxhunting is avidly pursued. Again, I'd like to thank everyone for their comments, they're much appreciated. Look for my future postings as my restoration progresses. Nate Dunsmore Rocking Horse Farm Boring MD (Baltimore County) USA NADdMD@aol.com (410)429-4964 From jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben) Thu Aug 31 12:52:07 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 12:52:07 EDT From: jib@big.att.com (Jan Ben) Subject: importing from UK - info in Bristol Needed. Hello, I am importing a vehicle from UK to US. I am getting it at Avon LandRovers in Bristol. A recent post on this group led to some unfavorable comments about the Avon integrity. ? Do you have any experience with them? Do you know any LR fans in Bristol, who might be willing to take a quick look (if nothing else, to confirm that all work was done as described)? I am getting the AA or RAC to give me a report, can you recommend a better/ cheaper alternative? Any help is greatly appreciated, as I need to resolve this one way or the other in the next couple of days. Jan jib@big.att.com (908)872-9641 PS. Ian, thanks for your advice. From vortex@worldaccess.nl (Bert Palte) Thu Aug 31 19:38:16 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 19:38:16 +0200 From: vortex@worldaccess.nl (Bert Palte) Subject: Life-time Tool Warranty Hello fellow readers, Though the following does not relate specifically to British cars, you may find it amusing to read. In 1970 I bought my first car, a rather rusty small vehicle of French origin, a Renault R4 of 1963. Almost everything needed attention or replacement, including most of the bodywork. Mechanical work was also involved, especially on the brakes and the suspension. It was already clear to me, then (at the age of 17 - a year before being able to attend driving lessons) that working on cars would probably become a lifetime commitment. So, I started buying tools whenever they were required. One of the tools I bought then was an open 10 x 11 mm ring spanner by Belzer. You need such a special tool to unscrew the brake pipe from a brake cylinder (there simply is no other way to do the job properly). A few weeks ago I helped one of my colleagues with a brake job on his Nissan Vanette. I saw him put this same spanner on a brake line nipple - and one of the jaws broke off. The same guy told me then that there was a lifetime warranty on Belzer, so, just to see what would happen, I went back to the store where I bought it about 25 years ago. (No, no, I could _not_ find the bill any more...). They told me that, in principle, this lifetime warranty thing was true, but they could'nt help me because they since had changed to selling a different manufacturers' products. So I decided to mail the tool directly to Belzer in Germany to see if, and how, they would react. This was about four weeks ago. Much to my surprise, I received a telefax from them today, a very nice letter stating that they had investigated my claim. (Without formally confirming or denying the warranty claim - they just didn't mention it) they are going to send me a new one, free of charge... .. and hoping that il will serve me equally well over a similar period of time... Thanks, Belzer! Bert Palte Soest, The Netherlands (Yes, of course, I have another one, in 3/8" x 7/16" size, for my British cars). (Disclaimer: I have no personal interests in B.) From Jeff Gauvin Thu Aug 31 11:38:38 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 11:38:38 MDT From: Jeff Gauvin Subject: '94 D90 Limited...? Anthony Verriello asks: >Can anyone tell me if there is a way to identify a 94 D90 >originally set up as a limited production black/leather or >one thats been painted and had leather installed? Not exactly, but... When I first started looking at the '94 D90 that I eventually bought, the salesman told me it was a "limited", but he never mentioned it again after that. Mine is optioned as follows: Alloy wheels (obviously) Hardtop (probably not part of the "limited" package) Rear safari cage Beluga Black Paint Leather front and rear seats Spare tire cover Aluminum fender protection plates Chrome "A-frame" front bumper guard w/2 Hella-500 lights Mine is #1930, which is only 28 away from a '95 I've seen mentioned here in the digest (jpappa), so mine was definitely near the end of the '94 production run. Until you (Anthony Verriello) mentioned it, I'd never heard anybody else talk of the "limited" D90, other than the one reference by the salesman, and we all know they'll say anything... How many were made? Were they the last '94s made? Does it sound like I have one? If so, so what? My "limited" didn't cost extra. In fact, because LRNA was trying to get rid of remaining '94s to make room for the '95s, I got $$$$ off the sticker; drove away for just under $30K ! -- Jeffrey J. Gauvin From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus 31 95 Aug EDT 1914 Date: 31 Aug 95 14:06:33 EDT From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus Subject: Re: Uncle Joe Strikes Again! 1. Replace the flasher unit. You probably are getting some current feedback through its heating coil or a funky contact. 2. Re: The Thing From 20,000 Fathoms: Don't all LR owners look like that? Tongue in cheek... -Alan From paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash) Thu Aug 31 07:43:52 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 07:43:52 +1000 From: paul@frcs.alt.za (Paul Nash) Subject: Re: Funny Questions... > I have a question from David Bobeck..."Does anyone have any secrets > for keeping there Rover from tipping over it's "High-Lift" jack when > lifting from the front bumper?" A couple of large-ish rocks placed in front of (or behind) the rear wheels will do the trick. Because the handbrake acts on the prop shaft, the rear wheels are free to turn in opposite directions, which is what happens when the jack topples. Chock the wheels and it won't topple. The toppling action is a feature, not a bug, BTW. It is useful for getting a stuck vehicle out of deep ruts (lift & topple at front and rear). paul -- Paul Nash turbo-nerd & all-round nice guy 14/114 Blamey Cres, Campbell, Canberra ACT 2601, AUSTRALIA From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus 31 95 Aug EDT 1914 Date: 31 Aug 95 14:13:28 EDT From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus Subject: Re: Welding Land Rover chassis... Re: MIG vs. stick welding: Rover chassis are relatively common mild steel. The rule I've always followed with this stuff is to hit it with a magnet. If it sticks, stick-weld is OK. If not, then find out what it is and go from there. Personally, I have a MIG I use as a wire-feed (gasless) welder for chassis repairs. Hasn't boken yet... -Alan From "Bobeck, David R." Thu Aug 31 14:56:44 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 14:56:44 EST From: "Bobeck, David R." Subject: Re: company's address (British Leyland) This came from a friend at work- DB Thought you might find all this interesting, particularly the WWW address at bottom. (Forwarded from STUMPERS-LIST). --BillC -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=- In response to Mai Po~ldaas' question: < we have a patron who is interested of address of British Leyland < Public Limited Company. Can you somebody help, please? Rose-Ann Movsovic responds: < To cut a very long story short (which would involve the entire history of < the ailing British car industry), suffice it to say that the company which [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] < is owned by British Aerospace, unlike most other "British" car companies < which are owned by US or French companies) < Rover Group Ltd < International House [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] < B37 7HQ < UK Since I am the resident Rover W*mb*t, this calls for an update correction. While British Aerospace acquired the Rover Group in 1988, they sold it last year to BMW. Honda, which had a 40% interest in the company and marketed Land Rover Discovery in Japan under their badge, was also interested in taking over the Rover Group, but was so miffed by BMW's successful bid that they sold all their interest. Land Rover, the 4WD division of the Rover Group, has been since its founding in 1948, immensely successful (more so today than ever), and its profits have often been used to prop up the ailing car division. The Rover Group has an official home page at http://www.rover.co.uk but so far it consists only of engineering employment opportunities. The Personnel Dept address: Gaydon Test Centre Banbury Road Lghthorne Warwickshire CV35 ORG Land Rover Ltd is at Lode Lane, Solihull, Warwickshire. This was the site of the original Rover car factory, but has for some time been devoted solely to Land Rover. Some other web addresses: http://sun1.bham.ac.uk/D.Hejcman.mes/ROVER/rover.html (an unofficial Rover Group page, showing locations of all Rover plants and operations). http://www.du.edu/~tomills/landrover.html (links to all known Land Rover and Rover Group web sites, and a history of Land Rover) http://www.du.edu/~tomills/lrtfm.html (a picture of me and my Land Rover) T.(eutonic) F.(ourwheeler) Mills tomills@du.edu University of Denver Library http://www.du.edu/~tomills Denver CO 80208 USA From Bennett Leeds Thu Aug 31 12:33:55 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 12:33:55 PDT From: Bennett Leeds Subject: Re: Discovery Questions (was: Newbie Questions) I am inches away from purchasing a Discovery. I've got two questions: 1) The dealer is offerring a 100K mile/7 year bumper to bumper extended warranty from GE, with a $50 deductible. He says it's $1500, but naturally I expect that reflects at least a 100%, if not more, markup. How much do think this is worth? 2) I drive dark moutain raods at night regularly, and so want to put "fog" lamps on. To do this on a '95 I either need to get a belly pan for $150 or get a brush bar and attach them to that. Any thoughts? The brush bar is $575 from the parts department - don't know what the dealer wants for it. Someone mentioned the '96s will have a fog lamp option. Considering the price involved to get the lights should I wait for the '96s? Also, I've got dealer invoice on the car and factory options from Edmunds, but not on the dealer added things like brush bars, etc. If you know them and can share them with me, I'd appreciate it much. Thanks! - Bennett Leeds bennett@mv.us.adobe.com From kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood) Thu Aug 31 13:16:14 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 13:16:14 -0700 From: kirkwood@strider.fm.intel.com (Clayton Kirkwood) Subject: Re: Discovery Questions (was: Newbie Questions) On Aug 31, 12:33pm, Bennett Leeds wrote: > Subject: Re: Discovery Questions (was: Newbie Questions) > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net [ truncated by lro-digester (was 20 lines)] > option. Considering the price involved to get the lights should I > wait for the '96s? Perhaps you saw my "testimony" about the brush bar vs deer. As with most anything posted these days, I received a fair amount of flack from an offroad list for being totally insensitive to the plight of deer (and who cares about my ongoing living family). I would suggest getting one. Besides, it lends a certain style to the already cool car. > Also, I've got dealer invoice on the car and factory options from > Edmunds, but not on the dealer added things like brush bars, etc. If [ truncated by lro-digester (was 9 lines)] > bennett@mv.us.adobe.com >-- End of excerpt from Bennett Leeds -- Clayton R. Kirkwood, FM1-58, 916 356-5838 From lenagham@bachman.com Thu Aug 31 17:05:50 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 17:05:50 EST From: lenagham@bachman.com Subject: Aftermarket EFI info From bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner) Thu Aug 31 18:00:57 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 18:00:57 -0400 From: bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner) Subject: D90 oil change Sounds like a silly post huh? Well, today was the first time I changed the oil on my D90 myself. What a mess!! When I took out the drain plug the oil shot over 3 feet ouyt of the whole! It bounced off my drivers side tire and made quite a mess. Is there some trick I have missed? I used to be an auto-mechanic about 10 years ago and I have changed alot of oil. I can't do another oil change like this one. I live in a condo and making a mess in the parking lot is a big no no. I cleaned it all up with kitty litter. It also tool 7 qts of oil. My book said 6. Any way I would appreciate any help. -=>Brian<=- From GARCAY@aol.com Thu Aug 31 18:58:05 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 18:58:05 -0400 From: GARCAY@aol.com Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest Hello All ! I have a friend who is currently rebuilding a Rover and is looking for : INDIVIDUAL REAR JUMP SEATS (FOUR) S11-S111 88 STATION WAGON (not bench seats) Anyone who has a set of four for sale or trade will be greatly received !!! If you know where a set can be purchased for not too much money, I would greatly appreciate knowing where. Thanks!! George Arcay (for Greg Long) Alexandria, Va. From "John B. Friedman" Thu Aug 31 16:43:02 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 16:43:02 -0500 From: "John B. Friedman" Subject: Unisyn dual carb tool FS Thanks to all who have helped me clean my shelves of old tools. But there at the back is a Unisyn, designed for dual Solexes or SU's or whatever where you need to read and match the vacuum on two separate throats. This is a real piece of 60's-70's automotive history and I have tuned many a MG sprite, Porsche, dual Weber and Solex set up with it. Heavy die casting with a rubber seal on a plate about 2 inches in dia. which sits on the top of carb. A float in a glass tube reads the vac and you go from one carb to the other. I will take 25.00 and include shipping on it. The piston ring compressor seemes still to be for sale too. John Friedman From TONY YATES Fri Sep 1 07:24:18 1995 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 07:24:18 +0800 (WST) From: TONY YATES Subject: Child restraints Anyone had any experience fitting child restraints into the back seat of a LWB, particularly 110 County? Thanks. ========================================================== () ( ) () Tony Yates ( ) ( ) ( ) Bureau of Meteorology ( )( ) ( ) Port Hedland ( ) )( ) Western Australia ( ) ) -------- ------------ ph: (091) 401 350 \\\**\\**\ fax: (091) 401 100 \***\*\ \\*\ email: A.Yates@bom.gov.au \\ ========================================================== From "Francis J. Twarog" Thu Aug 31 20:13:18 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 20:13:18 -0400 (EDT) From: "Francis J. Twarog" Subject: 109 stuff. Does anyone in New England know of or have a pair of door posts for a 109 station wagon - they are the only things we're really lacking for the resto project that starts next week (plus and engine, though) - the "t" posts, by the way. Again, it will be for sale or could be built to one's specification... Frank Twarog Burlington, VT From "John B. Friedman" Thu Aug 31 16:43:02 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 16:43:02 -0500 From: "John B. Friedman" Subject: Unisyn dual carb tool FS Thanks to all who have helped me clean my shelves of old tools. But there at the back is a Unisyn, designed for dual Solexes or SU's or whatever where you need to read and match the vacuum on two separate throats. This is a real piece of 60's-70's automotive history and I have tuned many a MG sprite, Porsche, dual Weber and Solex set up with it. Heavy die casting with a rubber seal on a plate about 2 inches in dia. which sits on the top of carb. A float in a glass tube reads the vac and you go from one carb to the other. I will take 25.00 and include shipping on it. The piston ring compressor seemes still to be for sale too. John Friedman From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Thu Aug 31 17:13:50 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 17:13:50 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Discovery Questions Clayton Kirkwood writes: >Perhaps you saw my "testimony" about the brush bar vs deer. As with most anything posted these days, I received a fair amount of flack from an offroad list for being totally insensitive to the plight of deer (and who cares about my ongoing living family). I would suggest getting one. Now Clayton, certainly I didn't want to hurt your feelings by offering another perspective to your 'testimony'. We all like you and your's very much and are glad you're safe from the attack of that mean deer! (I already said I was 'Just Jealous', didn't I?) While you're outfitting your Disco with protective devices giving you the confidence to continue speeding around Georgetown country roads Sunday mornings, consider that you may have been just lucky *this time*, nothing more! Next time, while turning to your wife at 60 mph, it may be a child on a bike caught in your bull bar; or maybe just another deer which next time jumps on your bonnet and comes through the windscreen. Forgive me, but somehow it makes me ill to think of all these nice vehicles needing armour to manage highway obstacles. I always thought of Rovers as slow and easy going trucks, recognizing obstacles ahead and effecting a defensive maneuver like slowing down and stopping, but then that's just me! It's not the bar that's alarming, it's the change in driver attitude that's frightening. I'm not concerned about a few deer, there seems to be an overpopulation of them in California anyway (they were probably teenages anyway crowding the bank daring each other to jump... you know the type! :) >Besides, it lends a certain style to the already cool car. How can you tell how cool the car is after attaching the bull bar? All of these type of off-highway vehicles look more alike by adding bull bars (as do passenger vehicles with bras!). Are we now supposed to recognize vehicles by the type of bull bar they have on? One thing that always impressed me by Range Rovers was how civilized they looked when cleaned up and driven in the city, certainly not by carrying around the iron gate to the pasture on the front bumper. Happy holidays (for the US! Others, well...), Michael Carradine, Architect Ph/Fax 510-988-0900 Carradine Studios, PO Box 494, Walnut Creek, CA 94597 USA _________________________________________________________________________ Mercedes-Benz Unimog 4x4 WWW page at: http://www.crl.com/~cs/unimog.html From JCassidyiv@aol.com Thu Aug 31 22:07:07 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 22:07:07 -0400 From: JCassidyiv@aol.com Subject: Oiling Frames I know someone posted a message regarding spraying "bar and chain" chainsaw oil onto their frame. What kind of sprayer are you using-can you use just a simple plastic garden-type pressure sprayer. We're hurtling into fall and I'd like to spray the frame soon-anything for a little extra protection. Cheers, John Cassidy From jpappa01@interserv.com Thu Aug 31 20:53:18 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 20:53:18 PDT From: jpappa01@interserv.com Subject: Re: Misc. - A lot on D90 hood latches. Similar to hoopla on D110 hood latches. Yes, one problem is convoluted path that cable takes. Main problem is internal wire inside outer jacket is some sort of mild steel which, yes, *CORRODES!* Just received a bulletin from LRNA that newest cable assy's feature *STAINLESS* inner wire in addition to `95 models being easier to pull anyway... These should be easy to retro to `94 models and if you're in for warranty replacement be sure to ask for the stainless one... - Have driven three Grand Cherokees which were traded with LRMW lately - and couldn't believe how loose (all were `93 models - two Laredos and one Limited - all V8s) and tinny they felt. All rattled, creaked and groaned. The highest mileage one was 41,000. The lowest? 650 miles!!! On a GC Limited Orvis edition. Traded on a Disco. The wife absolutely despised the Jeep - they had originally traded their `90 Rangey on the Orvis!! So it was no surprise that they came back to auntie Rover... - Latest Land Rover Gear item is a really neat Gerber multi-purpose tool which comes in a slick black ballistic nylon sheath with LR logo sewn-in. This is a cool tool! At all LR Centres... cheerz Jim - Rover and out `67 2A 88 5.0L hybrid `67 2A 109 5.0L hybrid `68 2B 110 F/C Diesel `70 P6B 3500S `90 Range Rover County `93 D110 (#457/500) `95 D90 #1958 From iharper@afm.org Fri Sep 01 00:20:27 1995 Date: Fri, 01 Sep 95 00:20:27 EST From: iharper@afm.org Subject: Zenith Jets Further to the discussion about Zenith Carbs and altitude changes, what are the correct jets for different altitudes? (i.e. at sea level, 1000ft, 2000ft, 3000 etc.) Is the main jet the only one that needs to be changed or should all be changed? Since I now understand that you cannot change the mixture in a Zenith without changing the jets, is it possible, while travelling through mountainous regions to temporarily compensate for the richer condition of the higher altitude? Should you jet it for the higher altitude and then just put the choke on as you descend?? Ian Harper, Stratford, Ontario.... iharper@afm.org --- This copy of Freddie 1.2.5 is being evaluated. From Roger Sinasohn Thu Aug 31 21:27:59 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 21:27:59 -0700 From: Roger Sinasohn Subject: Re: Plasti-Dip > I'm giving some serious thought to trying an appliance epoxy on mine, > just to givi it a stable coating, thn blowing a few dollars on a leather > cover... yuppie wimp that I am... I'm going to go for one of those thick rubber covers with all the bumps on it. As I get older, gripping the thin steering wheel causes some serious stiffness and pain in my fingers, and I think the resulting thickness will be pleasing. The other advantage is that they just slip on -- no lacing required. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California From Roger Sinasohn Thu Aug 31 21:28:04 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 1995 21:28:04 -0700 From: Roger Sinasohn Subject: Re: Tyres and tubes > I just bought 5 brand-new 16" Land Rover GenuineFrom RICKCRIDER@aol.com Fri Sep 1 03:55:05 1995 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 03:55:05 -0400 From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com Subject: Rovers and Ham (radio, that is) CQ, CQ, CQ.......Calling all Hams............ Have noticed amateur radio call signs attached to the signatures of several of us on the list. Probably a common thread in there somewhere since most ham types are generally the gadget / tool/ 'by God I'll fix it myself' types .................. Would like to see posted responses from any and all ham radio operators on the list......perhaps we can share common problems and solutions concerning our toys......such as mounting, RFI, antennas, road noise, etc. I've designed and fabricated a *really nice* overhead console.....takes the place of the sunvisor gizmo in the series Rovers.......looks and works great.....and holds loads of radio gear and speakers. Let's share our knowledge....... Cordially: (and 73) Rick Crider KD4FXA Monroe NC.......USA (704) 289-6303 ' 66 SIIA 109" (Hugo)........ and for sale............. ' 73 SIII 88" (Jesse) ' 88 Range Rover ............and way too many Alfa Romeos......... From RICKCRIDER@aol.com Fri Sep 1 04:31:25 1995 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 04:31:25 -0400 From: RICKCRIDER@aol.com Subject: ...."SHOQ's" ..... Hi All:.............. "SHOQ's" = 'Stupid Hopeful Owners Questions' Posted a 'For Sale' ad (for my 109" SIIa) in the local 'Truck Trader' tabloid......one of those you see on the racks at most all (USA) convenience stores......paid the extra $ for a front cover spot. Boy........was I overrun with calls.......No one has written a check yet though. Some of the more amusing questions I've posted below. The response in '( )' are not necessarily my *actual* responses to said questions......... *Is it like the one in the Born Free movie? (I've never seen Born Free) *Is it like the one in the 'The Specialist' movie? (Yes, but sans the dynamite) *Is it automatic? (Huh?) *Does it have air conditioning? (Are you kidding?) *Why is there a tire on the hood? (It's a 'bonnet', and that's where it belongs.) *Who was the original owner? (Hell, I was nine years old in 1966.....) *Is it Four Wheel Drive? (Thanks for calling.....bye now.) *Would it be a good college car for my son? (Yes, if he's in Sarajevo.....) *Is it easy to repair? (Yes, if you're good with pliers and coathangers....) *Is it a kit car? (Well.......you could call it that.........) *Are parts readily available? (Does the UPS truck pass your house?) Yes folks....these were real questions......not made up merely for your amusement. In all fairness though.....I did have some very legitimate calls.....some from previous LRO's who knew exactly what to ask. See Ya...... Rick Crider KD4FXA From sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM Fri Sep 1 11:18:23 1995 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 95 11:18:23 BST From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM Subject: Films Hi, I was watching Carry On Camping the other night and I spotted a series 1. I think it was a long wheel base with a soft top (removed apart from the sticks). It was used to carry the campers off somewhere. Another one to add to the list! Steve Reddock. Lightweight V6 From "Tom Rowe" Fri Sep 1 06:33:35 1995 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 06:33:35 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: Misc. > Jim writes: > Latest Land Rover Gear item is a really neat Gerber multi-purpose tool which > comes in a slick black ballistic nylon sheath with LR logo sewn-in. This is a > cool tool! At all LR Centres... Gee, I wonder if you can get just the pouch. I bought a Leatherman (which the Gerber is a *quality* knockoff of). I do a lot of work on computers and the Leatherman has pliers cloeser to needle a nose style. The Gerber seems like it might be better in you LR kit though, it seems a bit heftier. But I wouldn't mine having the sheath you mention. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From "Tom Rowe" Fri Sep 1 06:40:23 1995 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 06:40:23 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: Unisyn dual carb tool FS John Friedman writes: > Thanks to all who have helped me clean my shelves of old tools. But > there at the back is a Unisyn, designed for dual Solexes or SU's or > whatever where you need to read and match the vacuum on two separate > throats. This is a real piece of 60's-70's automotive history and I Snip, [Unasked for testimonial] I have one of these tools and used it on my BMW. I can highly recommend them.. I'm keeping it on the theory that someday I'm going to get another Beemer. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From "Tom Rowe" Fri Sep 1 06:45:13 1995 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 06:45:13 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: Oiling Frames John Cassidy asks: > I know someone posted a message regarding spraying "bar and chain" chainsaw > oil onto their frame. What kind of sprayer are you using-can you use just a > simple plastic garden-type pressure sprayer. Snip John, I posted that. I haven't done it myself. There were places in VT where I lived that did it. I imagine it would be worth a try. As someone mentioned you may have to enlarge the holes somewhat. If you heat the oil some it might noe be as much of a problem. You will want to drill holes in the door channels and other places to get at hiiden areas. You can get plastic plugs (like the ones used on the rear cross member) to put in the holes. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 01 95 Sep EDT 1908 Date: 01 Sep 95 08:18:13 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: D90 oil change *WHOooosh*... splat! > oil on my D90 myself. What a mess!! When I took out the drain plug the oil > shot over 3 feet ouyt of the whole! It bounced off my drivers side tire and > made quite a mess. Is there some trick I have missed? I used to be an And I thought my old 109 left big spots :-) Did you already have the oil filler cap off? If you leave it *on* , the oil usually blubs out gradually and doesn't come shooting out like that. Additionally blocking the crankcase ventilation (not forgetting to unblock it afterwards) also tends to slow down the rush of oil. Another method altogether is to get (or make) yourself a simple device to suck most of the oil out via the dipstick tube before removing the drain plug. For this to work the oil has to be relatively hot, or you'll be there a long while. Better luck next time! Stefan From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Fri Sep 01 08:50:22 1995 Date: Fri, 01 Sep 95 08:50:22 EST From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Subject: Draining Oil Has anyone heard of some sort of spigot that replaces drain plugs? This might be the way to go, since copper crush washers should really only be used once. (I've haven't changed mine yet through 1st 3 changes, but will next time!) I think the spigot thing may have been offered by one of the quicky-lube type shops. Hank From "Steve Methley" Fri Sep 1 14:23:02 1995 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 14:23:02 +0100 From: "Steve Methley" Subject: Re: importing from UK - info in Bristol Needed. Hi Jan, Avon landrovers is about 10 miles from my house, although I know nothing about them and have never visited their site. I first saw their adverts for vehicles a couple of years ago - had they been around longer I would probably have heard. More recently I have noted that they are selling parts too. As far as I know it's the usual farmer's field full of LR's for sale. You're very brave buying across the pond - Let me know if I can help you. I know my way around leafers and coilers, but don't offer any guarantees! The AA/RAC inspections are well regarded over here. -- ////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// Best Regards, Steve. Dr Steve Methley ***** ***** HP Labs, Filton Road, *** /_ __ *** email: sgm@hplb.hpl.hp.com Bristol, BS12 6QZ, UK ** / / /_/ ** or sgm@hpl.hp.co.uk direct line: +44 117 922 8751 *** / *** fax: +44 117 922 9286 switchboard: +44 117 979 9910 ***** ***** or 8920 ////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// From "Tom Rowe" Fri Sep 1 08:54:08 1995 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 08:54:08 GMT -0600 From: "Tom Rowe" Subject: Re: Draining Oil AHnk writes: > Has anyone heard of some sort of spigot that replaces drain > plugs? Snip Sounds dangerous if you go off road. Tom Rowe UW-Madison Center for Dairy Research 608-265-6194, Fax:608-262-1578 trowe@ae.agecon.wisc.edu Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck in places even more inaccessible. From ASFCO@aol.com Fri Sep 1 09:56:59 1995 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 09:56:59 -0400 From: ASFCO@aol.com Subject: Re: Amateur Radio Callsigns Being rather new to the digest I have noticed several HAM RADIO CALLSIGNS which have appeared in various sigs. I would be interested to find out just how many land-Rover owners are hams as well, besides it will give me practice in getting e-mail and downloading info. Thanks 73 Steve Bradke WA2GMC 72 ser lll 88 From Michael Turpin Fri Sep 01 15:11:23 1995 Date: Fri, 01 Sep 1995 15:11:23 +0100 From: Michael Turpin Subject: Re: importing from UK - info in Bristol Needed. Jan, Last year I bought a '84 110 2.5D Station Wagon from Avon Land rovers. (Yes, Steve, it is the usual farmer's field full of LRs with a couple of barns for workshops). When I first looked at the vehicle I pointed out a few minor defects which they said that they would correct. The only fix that I didn't particularly like was the patching of the holes in the bottom of the front doors. They welded a couple of plates straight over the holes and these rub on the bottom of the door frame. When I picked the LR up, one of the rear bench seat cushions was missing so they said that they'd get a new one and send it on. I think it took around two months and a lot of phone calls before I received one. Also, they offered to underseal the vehicle for me (for a small fee) which I agreed to. It must have taken someone all of ten minutes to slap a coat of underseal on. Quite a lot of it is already peeling away! (Preparation?...what's that!) The car was to have a new MOT certificate when I picked it up, but they hadn't had time to get it tested before I arrived. So, I went along to the testing centre with Barry from Avons. No probs. apart from the emissions test which it eventually passed with the air filter removed! Having said this, I bought my 110 for around =A31000 less than I could have from any local dealer, which made it roughly the same as a private sale but with a year's warranty. Also, they didn't try to hide anything, they even put the car up on their ramps so I could take a better look at the chassis. Hope this helps Cheers Mike ____________________________________________________________________________ Michael Turpin Network Operations Section, Network Group, Information Systems Division, Kathleen Lonsdale Building, University College London, Gower Street, WC1E 6BT. E-Mail: m.turpin@ucl.ac.uk Tel: 0171-380-7828 From ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov Fri Sep 1 10:59:29 1995 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 95 10:59:29 EDT From: ScottFugate_Group8@ctdvns1.ctd.ornl.gov Subject: Insurance for U.S. Series Rovers Gang, The article on insurance in the September LRO Magazine has reminded me to get around to a subject I've been meaning to do, but have neglected. That is - How do you U.S. citizens insure your Series Rovers? I currently am carrying liability only on mine, but I wish to perhaps add collision and comprehensive. Problem is, how much is a 1970 British vehicle worth? All I know is that, after three and a half years worth of "rolling restoration" mine is worth more than the $1,700.00 I paid for it. How much? I have saved my receipts, but I believe the old boy is worth more than the sum of his parts. I have considered getting an appraisal, but where do I find a certified vehicle appraiser who knows anything about old Land Rovers? There sure aren't any in these parts (American Iron predominant here), and I can't afford to pay for any of the hired gun appraisers who advertise in Hemming's to come to town. "Vintage Car" policies require you to drive your vehicle only for shows and parades, etc. My truck still works for a living, albeit on weekends only. How have other folks dealt with this conundrum? From reading the LRO article, I'm at least glad we don't have to deal with the crap our fellow enthusiasts in the UK have to put up with. Reporting "performance" mods such as roof racks and new wheels - Sheesh! Have a happy Labor Day weekend. Dove hunting season starts in Tennessee in a little over an hour. See y'all Tuesday! Scott Fugate 1970 IIA 88 1989 RR BT From jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Fri Sep 1 08:55:36 1995 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 08:55:36 -0700 From: jjbpears@ix.netcom.com (Jeremy Bartlett) Subject: Re: Bouncing Deer and Bars You wrote: Clayton Kirkwood Hey..before you get angry at me I'm not having a go at you. ...I'd choose a bull-bar any day. >Sorry If I've offended you in anyway I just thought you might like to hear someone else's point of view. When we're driving we watch our speed and we try to avoid obstacles at all costs but I'd still prefer to have some protection on my vehicle - just incase. No offence to be taken here :) You've made my point "watch our speed and try to avoid obstacles at all costs". (I should never have picked up this thread. Problem is, I just don't know when to keep my mouth shut!) Glad to see you back on the net. With so little traffic from AU/SA we'd thought roo's buggered the whole bloody lot! PS- Like reading your travel logs, and finding the places on the map. Michael Carradine ? '65 IIA 88" 'Rumpole of the Bay' at cs@crl.com _\ __ http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html [__[__[__] _________________________(o)___(o)_______________________________________ From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Fri Sep 01 09:25:53 1995 Date: Fri, 01 Sep 1995 09:25:53 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Insurance for U.S. Series Rovers >"Vintage Car" policies require you to drive your vehicle only for shows and >parades, etc. My truck still works for a living, albeit on weekends only. An insurance broker at a booth at the local British Car meet in Hayward, CA a few months ago provided policies such as the following: -- comprehensive and liability insurance -- driving not more than 2,500 miles per year -- no driving to work -- vehicle to be garaged (carported?) -- agreed-to replacement value (he took photos) For a $7,000 vehicle value, using 'A' rated (or better) insurance cmpanies, the annual premium was quoted at $180. [For more information contact Barlow Insurance Brokerage, 1515 Tanglewood Drive, Corona, CA 91720, (800) 484-9880] Michael Carradine ? '65 IIA 88" 'Rumpole of the Bay' at cs@crl.com _\ __ http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html [__[__[__] _________________________(o)___(o)_______________________________________ From Bennett Leeds Fri Sep 1 09:46:15 1995 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 95 09:46:15 PDT From: Bennett Leeds Subject: Re: Brush/Bull guard testimony I've got my own deer/vehicle story. I was driving home late from work one night, doing about 30 MPH up a fairly twisty mountain road cut into a hillside, so there was a steep slope up at my left and a steep dropoff on my right. All of a sudden I see the eye of a deer coming down the hillside (my left) at quite a clip. He was very close when I first saw him - maybe 5-10 feet. He was going too fast down the hillside to stop before the road. In a split second I just knew we were going to collide - that there was no way for me to avoid it. I had this same feeling 15 years ago when I was in an accident. Just before the impact you know you're toast. I hit the brakes and turned the car to the right, hoping that he'd turn also so that we'd bump side to side which would be better for him - he might not be seriously hurt. Well, my car stops and there's no bump, no deer, just a rustle in the bushes to my right. The inescapable conclusion is that he jumped over my car! I've since found out that deer can jump 5 to 6 feet (hence some people put dual 6 foot fences around their vegetable gardens). He might have been able to slow enough to go behind my car, but I strongly doubt it. I was slowing down by braking, which would make that harder. I was driving a little RX-7, so jumping over isn't such a big deal. Had I been in a Discovery (which is where I'd rather have been), I wonder if it would have caught the roof rack, tipping me over. I hope to never find out. BTW, if you see one deer, even off in the distance, keep alert as they usually travel in packs and they don't look before crossing. - Bennett Leeds bennett@mv.us.adobe.com From hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Fri Sep 01 12:54:35 1995 Date: Fri, 01 Sep 95 12:54:35 EST From: hlapa@Zeus.signalcorp.com Subject: Insuring Series Vehs Added my '60 109 SW to my USAA insurance when bought in Florida about 7 years ago. Since I was Navy, I called back to Nevada DMV to get new plates for her from that state, where I had my "residence of record." No inspections, and the prettiest plates in the USofA. USAA simply asks what value you place on the veh, presumably that's what they pay if totaled, or upper limit of repair. Of course, the higher value you give, the higher the premiums. Other questions you have to answer include miles driven per year, with USAA's lower limit being 2000. So I said $12,000 veh, 2000 miles per year. That's pretty close to my "investment" to date, and I don't think I've gone over 2k per year, except maybe the year I moved to DC area. Became a civilian in Maryland, and by law had to get their license, registration and plates. Based on infrequent driving (for which I kept a log several years), vehicle age, and likely difficulty passing the Maryland veh inspection, registered her as "Historic." No inspections in that or "Street Rod" category in Maryland, the caveat being only "occasional" driving other than events, etc. Have kept same $12k/2k miles on insurance ever since. I figure the $12k may be a fairly safe replacement value, as I would DEFINITELY seek out to reacquire as similar a veh as possible should my L-R get really squashed. Also, I get her onto the roads only a few times per month -- enough to splash the oil around for mechanical health reasons. So I feel pretty legal. A guy once left a card on the windshield as an appraiser (still have it if anyone wants name. etc), but I simply save all the stuff RN and AB send about vehs for sale to make sure my declared USAA value will continue to cover possible replacement. That may be the easiest, broadest, most reasonable "proof" of value that may be out there. My household insurance is for "replacement," not for loss, so I guess I have a personnal philosophy at work. Regards, Hank From skidmore@mail02.mitre.org (William E. Skidmore) Fri Sep 1 13:06:51 1995 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 95 13:06:51 -0400 From: skidmore@mail02.mitre.org (William E. Skidmore) Subject: Re: D90 oil change >Sounds like a silly post huh? Well, today was the first time I changed the oil on my D90 myself. What a mess!!....snip >Any way I would appreciate any help. Yeah, Brian- I marked a milestone this past oil change - nothing spilled! I use a tub that's about 1.5ft high, slide it under the oil pan, but offcenter, realizing that the oil does in fact pour out quite fast when the plug is first removed. I make sure that I angle my hand/wrist in such a way as to hold onto the drain plug from the top side, not from the bottom or the outside surfaces. This way my hand doesn't get covered with oil. When it it done draining, I replace the old crush ring, and screw the drain plug back in. BTW, 6 quarts without the filter change, 7 with. Bill Skidmore From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Fri Sep 01 10:17:20 1995 Date: Fri, 01 Sep 1995 10:17:20 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Bouncing Deer and Bars Jeremy Bartlett writes: > CK: Besides, it lends a certain style to the already cool car. MC: How can you tell how cool the car is after attaching the bull bar? JB: I would have thought an architect very familiar with the prinicples of style, design and appearance :) Exactly, you just can't see the bloody Disco (or whatever) through the bars! > JB: P.S. I've taken your attitude to heart and made my bar deer friendly by welding diamond grate across the bars. That way it can bounce off and its head won't get stuck and go through the radiator :) You better be at Palo Alto so that I can inspect the modifications! Actually, I liked your earlier suggestion better (sorry I deleted it) --the one about sloping the bar to throw the game into the back and preping it for the freezer. If you had many litte horizontal triangular bars in front, the game could be neatly sliced. No need to remove the game, by the time you drive home through the valley it'd be jerky! Maybe we can all get bull-bar licenses from Fish & Game, and chase the buggers through fields and woods ...after all, that's what 4x4's are for. Ah yes.. the return of metal grilles, deer-bar recipes, etc. Clayton, Jeremy, we can work out the deatils over a brew at Palo Alto! (I understand they are awarding little deer stick-ons to attach to the deer-bars, or the fenders of Rovers without bars.) I'm slow, but I'm coming around! qB) Michael "PC? NOT!" Carradine ? '65 IIA 88" 'Rumpole of the Bay' at cs@crl.com _\ __ http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html [__[__[__] __________________________=Oo+__(o)___(o)____________________________________ From grea@net.gov.bc.ca (Gordon Rea 660-0216 (NTO Vanc.)) Fri Sep 1 11:06:30 1995 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 95 11:06:30 PDT From: grea@net.gov.bc.ca (Gordon Rea 660-0216 (NTO Vanc.)) Subject: Gone Roving. I dont know if this will make it to the list as I've just unsubscibed. Before I go Roving for the next couple of week, I have one trivial question that must be cleared up. Jeff Gauvin writes that one of the options of his D90 is "Beluga Black Paint". Seems to me that "Beluga" is Russian for "White (Belo of Byelo) Whale" What does this colour "White Whale Black" paint look like? Is this an oxymoron equivelent to the "Dodge Ram"? G. From dimitry@uask4it-101.Eng.Sun.COM (Dimitry Struve) Fri Sep 1 13:01:01 1995 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 13:01:01 +0800 From: dimitry@uask4it-101.Eng.Sun.COM (Dimitry Struve) Subject: Unisyn dual carb tool FS I still have my Unisyn bouncing around in my toolbox. I am sure it hasn't been used for 15 years. But I intend to keep it forever. Perhaps I'll polish it and put it on the mantlepiece. -Dimitry From JHobbs151@aol.com Fri Sep 1 15:59:10 1995 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 15:59:10 -0400 From: JHobbs151@aol.com Subject: LRO I need help in finding a few good sources for purchasing a Land Rover. I have just recently become interested in the Land Rovers and wish to purchase an older one in the next few months. I can count on one "finger" how many LR I can remember seeing in my neck of the woods (Tennessee). From what little I have read about them on the WWW and here, they seem to be a very rugged and dependable on-road/off-road vehicle. How expensive are they to maintain and what does the average 2-door model cost on the used market. I am not even familiar with models, etc. to be more specific. I have been pricing used Jeeps for several months but have decided too many people drive them and well, I like the look of the Land Rover that I saw much better. Any help/assistance would be greatly appreciated. Also, if someone can give me some book titles on LRs that I can further "wet my appetite on" I would be totally thrilled. Jay Hobbs jhobbs151@aol.com 73023.2374@compuserve.com From jpappa01@interserv.com Fri Sep 1 19:53:18 1995 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 95 19:53:18 PDT From: jpappa01@interserv.com Subject: Re: Misc. - The Black 1994 D90 *WAS* a *limited* model - only 100 were made and were introduced in the Summer of 1994. They had grey leather seats - the first D90 to offer the rear bench seat - also in leather. They were the only 100 `94s with black paint. A few of them came through with port-installed A/C and fender protection plates. It also introduced the stainless A-frame bull bar and matching SS running boards. Remember that black was not a regular production code until `95 - which replaced the Arles Blue color of the `94 models. Regular `95 MY black D90s have same equipment as every other D90... - The builders plate number between 19XX and the first `95's - also 19XX. The units are basically built in production batches... My `95 D90 is one of the earliest ones - an ex-LRNA factory D90. Latest build number at LRMW is 28XX. Latest models feature steering wheel chest pads with LR logo embossed into it... - To the fellow discussing the 7/100 extended warranty for $1500 and saying that the *markup* is probably 100% if not more... Absolutely false. I can tell you with 100% certainty that the dealer cost of this warranty is well over $1000... The perception is still widespread that the dealer markup on everything is a zillion percent. It isn't. The profit margin in most models of Land Rover is approx. ten percent. Parts/accessories about 15-20%. Aftersale products such as extended warranties, etc. about 20 - 25%. $1500 for 7/100,000 of peace of mind is cheap money in my book. One visit to the shop for a major uncovered repair will vaporize the cost of an ITT/GE extended warranty. They also give you the luxury of putting the extra coverage on at any time within the original factory warranty... cheerz Jim - Rover and out... `67 2A 88 5.0L Hybrid `67 2A 109 5.0L Hybrid `68 2B 110 F/C Diesel `70 P6B 3500S `90 Range Rover County `93 D110 #457/500 `95 D90 #1958 ` From JAMES_CIRBUS@HPATC2.desk.hp.com Thu Aug 31 16:19:00 1995 Date: Thu, 31 Aug 95 16:19:00 -0400 From: JAMES_CIRBUS@HPATC2.desk.hp.com Subject: D-90 warranty issues Greetings, I thought I would write to compare notes on some warranty issues. I just had the D-90 in for it's 7500 mi. service. ($232.31) I asked the local dealer to look at the A/C, misc. oil leaks, and zippers on the top (tilt?). When I returned to pay settle the bill, the service writer informed me that the techs had "tightened the oil pan bolts, replaced the seal on the tranny drain plug, and charged the A/C." (about now, you are asking yourself, So what's the problem?) The writer also informed me that a local upholstery shop had installed ONE zipper in the top. (ahh, you say) He finished by saying that the truck was washed and ready to go. By the time I came back to pick up the truck that evening, this zipper thing had started to bother me. While in the lot, noticing that the truck had not been washed, I happened across my salesman. I asked him to check on Land-Rover's policy on zippers for the D-90. He informed me that their policy is to replace the offending zipper, and ONLY the offending zipper. My question is, of course, is this what other dealers are doing? Sincerely, p***ed off, or p***ed on? Jim Cirbus 94 D-90 Sunbury, OH From w1eox@ix.netcom.com (Yves Feder) Sat Sep 02 06:28:25 1995 Date: Sat, 02 Sep 1995 06:28:25 -0400 From: w1eox@ix.netcom.com (Yves Feder) Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest >Date: Fri, 1 Sep 1995 03:55:05 -0400 >Subject: Rovers and Ham (radio, that is) [ truncated by lro-digester (was 22 lines)] >Cordially: (and 73) >Rick Crider KD4FXA Hi Rick!!! I'm Old Buzzard W1EOX (lic. since 1953) - owned several 88's and now with a 1963 109 truck (nice picture of it btw in the early summer issue of "Aluminum Workhorse". I basically have 'im outfitted as a test bed for various radio projects, although the mainstay rigs are an ex state police lowband 90W radio with remote control head (set up on 52.49 and 52.525, very active 6m stuff here in S/NEng) and an Alinco 45w two meter rig. All kinds of other stuff is in and out of the Beastie from time to time - collapsible poles for VHF mountaintopping with various yagis, AM gear (various old military rigs) and 6 permanently mounted antennas HF through 220/440. The usual comments from the gang at the Killingworth dump (excuse me, the "recycling center/compactor site") are along the lines of "hey, whaddya pick up with all those antennas? Russia?!!!" to which of course the answer is, ayuh! Enjoyed your comments about the 109 ad too!!! (especially your replies) 73 Yves (Al) W1EOX ex K2CUI / K1TJP Yves A. (Al "Al") Feder w1eox@ix.netcom.com Home of "Tiny Radio Theatre"(tm) AND Eric, the Mad Megalomaniac Bull Cavy From Lloyd Allison Sat Sep 2 21:27:57 1995 Date: Sat, 2 Sep 1995 21:27:57 +1000 From: Lloyd Allison Subject: LR books Jay Hobbs: I have a few L-R book titles in http://www.cs.monash.edu.au.~lloyd/tildeLand-Rover/Books/index.shtml --- Does anyone have recommendations re forward-facing fold-up seats to mount in the rear of a SIII LWB HT ? There are various ones advertised in LROI. Does anyone down-under know of a local product (I want seat-belts and RTA approval). Lloyd Dept. of Computer Science, Monash University, Clayton, Victoria 3168, AUSTRALIA tel: 61 3 9905 5205 fax: 61 3 9905 5146 email: lloyd@cs.monash.edu.au From Mark Talbot <71035.3215@compuserve.com> 02 95 Sep EDT 1918 Date: 02 Sep 95 18:40:49 EDT From: Mark Talbot <71035.3215@compuserve.com> Subject: FOR SALE Bellview (Land Rover) winch FOR SALE, BELLVIEW (LAND ROVER) electric winch. Pull rating 8,000lbs All cables etc. Comes mounted on original bumper. Original optional equipment as on eraly series vehicles. Asking $150, plus shipping, approx. $40 Mark 603-357-3401 From LTC Larry Smith Sat Sep 2 18:49:14 1995 Date: Sat, 2 Sep 95 18:49:14 EDT (2249Z) From: LTC Larry Smith Subject: Re: SIII / Thermostat..... Rick, Just went thru a temp question with my '72 Petrol SWB. The temp "gauge" started creeping up into the borderline red zone. Flushed the system, changed the thermostat, had the radiator flow tested, still slowly creeping up. Changed the temp sending unit, ordered a new temp gauge, all the time, the return hose water temp 160-170 degrees F. Finally got ready to change the temp head, jockeyed with the voltage stabilizer on the back of the speedo, and now it reads "correctly", (or at least what it did when I bought it) at the upper edge of the letter "N". I still keep my eye on it, check the temp with a meat thermometer chucked into the filler neck once a week or so, esp. with the high temps we have been having here in VA. So, it sounds like you are doing the right things. But I might suggest investing $4.00 +/- in a thermometer to measure the temp of the water at the return (top) hose to be on the safe side. Regards, Larry From JDolan2109@aol.com Sat Sep 2 19:27:58 1995 Date: Sat, 2 Sep 1995 19:27:58 -0400 From: JDolan2109@aol.com Subject: Stranded by AOL Thanx to wonderful AOL, I'm getting my mail as unreadable, 'Mime' encoded files. Everything!!! My computer, like my '61 LR is a *bit* dated. Just like most people when it comes to vehicles, they (AOL) say replace-upgrade. The first thing I'll replace is them. I'm only able to decipher bits of the list (as data forks), as I can't support their conversion software. My only recourse might be to leave the list, find a new provider, and try again. I did have a nice vacation to Colorado. 4600 miles and 13 states. Me and Binky, the Airedale dog. Didn't go to Breckenridge. Did go to Sturgis, SD (Harleys). Someone asked about spraying bar and chain oil on the chassis. My suggestion is (was): 'cut' the oil with a _slight_ bit of diesel fuel (not much, experiment to obtain optimum (heaviest possible) viscosity). This will enable the oil to spray more easily and penetrate more extensively. The diesel will act as a 'carrier' and dissipate. Try using one of those 'plunger' charging type sprayers. If there's an old orchard or farm or such around you'd probably find an old one there. They tended to erode the orifice of the nozzle after extended use (making it actually better for chassis oiling!), and sometimes are 'laid aside' but not discarded. If you use an old sprayer, clean it well, as it might have been last used for DDT or such! Hope to see folks at Stowe, stop by if you're in the neighborhood. See 'ya on the old road... Jim '61 88" SW / OD, 1 Bbl weber & 16's (thinktank?) LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! P.S. Anyone with any knowledge/experience with older Mac's (sys 6.7 = max) and decoding Mime documents, please email direct, if inclined. From LTC Larry Smith Sat Sep 2 19:23:16 1995 Date: Sat, 2 Sep 95 19:23:16 EDT (2323Z) From: LTC Larry Smith Subject: Re: Insurance for U.S. Series Rovers Scott, Have to agree with Hank on USAA. I originally financed with them. They had to go thru about two or three books to find out what a Series Land Rover was, but once they did, no questions as to value or insurability. I have $100 deductable for liability and comprehensive. The cost is relative to any other vehicle I have insured with them in the last 15+ years. Best of all, all over the phone! I guess the best way to go is per a later posting (apologize for not getting the name), work with an agent you feel comfortable with who respects what we have "invested" in. BTW, I am using my '72 SWB as a daily driver and USAA is insuring it as such. Regards, Larry From Rob Bailey Sat Sep 2 18:21:48 1995 Date: Sat, 2 Sep 1995 18:21:48 -0600 (MDT) From: Rob Bailey Subject: Re: Amateur Radio Callsigns (and more brake questions) My callsign: VE6JRJ - Calgary, Alberta, Canada 63 Series IIa 88" SW Also: Does anybody know what the brake line flares are like in older LR's? I have to replace the pipe between the brake master and the stop light/splitter mounted on the right hand frame rail. It looks like the end going into the switch is a British Flare (kind of flying saucer shape, looking in profile) and the master cylinder end is a normal North American type flare (like a Y shape in profile). I wanted to know if this was correct or if both ends were supposed to be the British type! By looking into the master, it looks as though both ends are going to be different. Anybody? Thanks, Rob From Hal Leininger Sat Sep 2 17:23:20 1995 Date: Sat, 2 Sep 1995 17:23:20 -0700 (PDT) From: Hal Leininger Subject: Palo Alto British Car Meet Can someone post when this will be? From David John Place Sat Sep 2 19:37:05 1995 Date: Sat, 2 Sep 1995 19:37:05 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest Hi Yves I am another old time ham. Thirty five years. Commercial training originally and now an Educational Psychologist. I have an interresting air operated mast that I use with my 64 IIA. It climbs from about 8 feet nested to 40 feet by pumping in air from a small compressor. Mostly I am on 2 meters with it for Red Cross work. I have been working for the American Red Cross in radio on the Island Kawai two years ago, Russia and Finland last year and just this June in New Orleans for the flood. You can see a picture of my 88 in Jimmyp WWW page along with a few other Manitoba Rovers. 73 Dave VE4PN From Roger Sinasohn Sat Sep 2 18:16:41 1995 Date: Sat, 2 Sep 1995 18:16:41 -0700 From: Roger Sinasohn Subject: Re: New Galvinized Frame > I would second Jory's vote for returning the frame. For the jack that I'll third it. If it's noticably bent/damaged, return it. As Jory said, if it was in shipping, it should be insured. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California From Roger Sinasohn Sat Sep 2 18:16:23 1995 Date: Sat, 2 Sep 1995 18:16:23 -0700 From: Roger Sinasohn Subject: Re: aired down??? > Ummmm .... > Roger did you say you aired _down_ to 45psi? > If so, from what?! Yep. From 55-60psi. (What the tyres are rated for for best mileage on the highway.) (On the Mendocino run, I don't think I aired down at all.) --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California From Roger Sinasohn Sat Sep 2 18:16:06 1995 Date: Sat, 2 Sep 1995 18:16:06 -0700 From: Roger Sinasohn Subject: Re: Where to take the kids in what (was: Discovery Shops) > Question: Are Land-Rover dealerships 'Discovery Shops*', or vica versa? Or, if you have wee kids, are they 'Discovery Zones*'? (Visions of children crawl over a brand new disco with melted chocolate bars, as Dad talks the price down...) > -Michael 'Just Jealous' Carradine P.S., Saw a Unimog in the Truck Trader. I can get more info if you want. *The Discovery Zone is a chain of (basically) indoor jungle gyms you can take kids to. Actually, very affordable and very good for kids, developmentally. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Uncle Roger "There is pleasure pure in being mad sinasohn@crl.com that none but madmen know." Roger Louis Sinasohn & Associates San Francisco, California From cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Sat Sep 02 18:15:48 1995 Date: Sat, 02 Sep 1995 18:15:48 +0100 From: cs@crl.com (Michael Carradine) Subject: Re: Palo Alto British Car Meet Hal Leininger writes: >Can someone post when this will be? Re: Palo Alto British Car Meet Sunday September 10, 1995, starting at 9:00 AM (I think!) On the east side of El Camino Real, across from the Stanford Shopping Center. Michael Carradine ? '65 IIA 88" 'Rumpole of the Bay' at cs@crl.com _\ __ http://www.crl.com/~cs/rover.html [__[__[__] _________________________(o)___(o)_______________________________________ From JCassidyiv@aol.com Sat Sep 2 23:03:22 1995 Date: Sat, 2 Sep 1995 23:03:22 -0400 From: JCassidyiv@aol.com Subject: RR electrical probs I posted a message last week about my oil level warning light flashing when the dipstick reads normal level of oil. Well, I haven't replaced the sensor yet. Now, there are two new electrical problems; 1.) The low beam headlights dim significantly when the windshield washer is used. The high beams seem unaffected. 2.) The transmission temperature warning light came on twice today, both times after the vehicle had been sitting for at least 1-2 hours. Ambient temperature about 75 degrees F and after normal around town/highway use. Those of you who are electrically minded please help! It seems like the electical system is slowly disintegrating each time I turn the key!(possibly some Land Rover concoction to get me to go to the dealer and purchase a new one?!) Cheers! John Cassidy From Thouge@aol.com Sun Sep 3 00:00:59 1995 Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 00:00:59 -0400 From: Thouge@aol.com Subject: clutch help After wading through the river, water to the top of the transmission tunnel, and then sitting overnight, the clutch in my SIII will not disengage. We have spent the last two weeks checking the hydraulics, removing the floor, seats, etc. to check the throw out bearing and clutch plate. Everything seems fine... Rovers North says the clutch is stuck and to get the vehicle going in fourth gear and 'rock' the vehicle with the throttle.... still no luck. I need help, I'm going into Rover withdrawal. Todd Houge Springfield, Missouri USA '73 SIII 88" From jeff@purpleshark.com (Jeffrey A. Berg) Sun Sep 3 00:41:02 1995 Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 00:41:02 -0400 From: jeff@purpleshark.com (Jeffrey A. Berg) Subject: Multi purpose tools. (Was Re: Misc.) >>- Latest Land Rover Gear item is a really neat Gerber multi-purpose tool >>which > Gerber makes good stuff, a 'merican company, although they were bought out by > Solingen or somebody. The Gerber tool is pretty nice, I bought one (not the official Land-Rover model) for my father a couple of x-mas' ago. However, take a look at the offerings from SOG, particularly the para-tool, before buying the Gerber. I think it's a better tool. (The newest model even uses a gear system to increase leverage on the jaws.) The SOG handles won't close all the way when the pliers are in use, which prevents the nasty blood blister that occurs when you cut through that piece of wire and catch the fatty part of your palm between the handles. Trust me, not 15 seconds after watching my father do this, I took the tool from him (in disgust at his clumsiness) and did it to myself. SOG comes with a hard plastic sheath, but a nylon case is available for about $7 direct from SOG. One nice feature of the nylon case is that it can be mounted horizontally on your belt for a lower profile look. Gerber was bought by the company that manufactures Fiskars scissors. Don't know the name. Regards. JAB == == Jeffrey A. Berg Purple Shark Media Rowayton, CT jeff@purpleshark.com ***** Look what happens when you love someone, and they don't love you. --Warren Zevon, The Heartache == == From Sekerere@aol.com Sun Sep 3 01:01:05 1995 Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 01:01:05 -0400 From: Sekerere@aol.com Subject: Gaitors and Locks Just catching up on LRO-D for the past couple fo weeks after our trip to Africa. Pleased to say that "the beast" now has brand new reconditioned swivel balls, and all the parts to go with them. Thank goodness for the used ones that I bought as we had to cannibalize some parts. There is a bright yellow/orange tailgate wired on for the time being, as I brought back the wrong latches. Now we just have to do the Transfer and Transmission seals, the exhaust downpipe and the pinion seals. List never seems to stop. Anyway I have a couple of questions/problems. Somewhere in one of the lists someone mentioned that they had the template for the Series gaiters and after talking to the South African dealers I think I want to try to make myself a set rather than buy them, unless someone can suggest some off brand ones. Also I just received my door locks from a dealer in South Africa and find that they are substantially different to the ones I have on the beast-so much so that I cannot fit the drivers door with the one I bought for it, and I had to modify the one for the safari door. The ones I have do not have the lock attached to the handle and it is in the top left-hand corner as you look at the lock from an outside vantage point. Somehow there is no way that the lock and handle fit onto a Series IIA door without doing major cutting of metal. Firstly am I just being dense or did the guy send me locks for a Series III or later? Secondly is there anyone who would need this lock and handle-it is brand new. By the way Arizona LROs give me a call sometime about the Arizona LR Association you are trying to start-I would be interested. Chris Whitehead SeriesIIA -SWB 1966 (The Anti-Christ)- and money pit right now!!!!!! From bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner) Sun Sep 3 01:21:46 1995 Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 01:21:46 -0400 From: bbonner@mail.htp.com (Brian Bonner) Subject: 9th anual Hampton Classic The offroad clinic today in S.Hampton was a blast! Not too difficult compared to what I have done; but, really fun. I am still coughing up dust from the track. Real dry. too make it fun I did the course as fast as was sane.(insane for most) hahaha! The nick named me the dust cloud! I beat the heck out of my D90! What a blast my wife and i had. It was a winding course with a variety of obstacles. from mougles on angles and curves, too 75 deg inclines with a hair pin turn at the top and a 80-85 deg decline. All on a soft dry sandy course. some poor owner goofed and rolled his 94 Range Rover on the track! ouch! turned out he has big bucks though, so no biggy. The figure about 12,000.00 worth of dammage. He just did all the wrong things at one time. 3rd year there too. No other dammaged vehicles. Some got stuck here and there causing some traffic jams. I did the course 3 times for fun. the best part was it was all free. Then the trail ride(snore) was nice. the best part was a 15 yard mud pit(natural). I waited till the other driver was way clear. The i looked to my wife and said ready? She said yup. Put it it low 3rd and punched it! Mud Everywhere! hahaha! it went right over the top of the vehicle!(we had no top on)hahahaha! I won dirtiest truck! Power washed and still muddy. You know what i will be doing tomarrow! Inside, outside, and underneath. -=>Brian<=- From Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Fri Sep 1 05:40:16 1995 Date: Fri, 1 Sep 95 05:40:16 PDT From: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk Subject: Re: Amateur Radio Callsigns (and more brake questions) Rob, I have a '68 IIA. As I recall both ends of this pipe have the same flare; perhaps yours has been changed some time in the last 32 years? They should both be the "flying saucer" shape. I looked at the instructions for my flaring kit recently; this refers to the flares, both single and double, as being "SAE" standard. I recently posted details of a British manufactured tool to produce these flares; let me know if you would like details. ------------------------------------- Tony Chapman HAWTEC Tel: +44 (0)1905 723200 Haswell House Fax: +44 (0)1905 613338 Saint Nicholas Street Mobile: 0973 316835 Worcester WR1 1UW E-mail: Tony@hawtec.demon.co.uk From JCassidyiv@aol.com Sun Sep 3 11:25:00 1995 Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 11:25:00 -0400 From: JCassidyiv@aol.com Subject: Koenig Winch For Sale I 'm posting this for a friend of mine. He has a Koenig winch for sale that's in excellent shape. It is the type that drives off the front of the engine. Price is $750. Please E-mail if you're interested. Serious inquiries only. The winch is located in Maine. Cheers! John Cassidy From GARCAY@aol.com Sun Sep 3 12:39:54 1995 Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 12:39:54 -0400 From: GARCAY@aol.com Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest Hi All!! I posted a request last week for anyone who might have or knows of four (4) rear fold-up jump seats(not bench seats) for an ' 88 rover wagon that you'd be willing to sell or trade. Any news out there ? My friend Greg, whom I placed the ad for is desperate !!! Thanks Hope to from someone George Arcay Alexandria, Va. From Kefi@aol.com Sun Sep 3 14:33:49 1995 Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 14:33:49 -0400 From: Kefi@aol.com Subject: Mid-Atlantic Rover Rally Hi all, I and three or four other members of the Yankee Rover Club of Connecticut are planning to attend the Mid-Atlantic Rover Rally. We are planning to caravan down to Va. and would like to know if anyone from the northeast or Canada is driving down. Maybe we could meet and all drive down together. Reply to me at Kefi@aol.com. Thanks, Art Patsouris From "Soren Vels Christensen" Sun Sep 3 19:21:21 1995 Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 19:21:21 -0600 (CST) From: "Soren Vels Christensen" Subject: Re: ... (and more brake questions) In message Sat, 2 Sep 1995 18:21:48 -0600 (MDT), Rob Bailey writes: > 63 Series IIa 88" SW ... > end going into the switch is a British Flare (kind of flying saucer > shape, looking in profile) and the master cylinder end is a normal North [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > looking into the master, it looks as though both ends are going to be > different. Anybody? I had to remove a rear cylinder with a stuck pipe. So i ordered a kit and changed the pipe from the rear T-piece along with the cylinder. By checking the rest of the kit i can see both flying saucers and y's. Does this help? BTW. My brother and i did maint. on the rovers last weekend. Anyone remember my drum removal problems?. Well instead of getting hi-tensile bolts from abroad i decided to get violent. A hydraulic jack against the spring and a hammer took it off with the sound of a very big church bell and landed in my brothers lap. Changed shoes and cylinder and the drum is back on. Didn't look bad inside. sv/aurens From Duncan Brown Sun Sep 03 15:29:36 1995 Date: Sun, 03 Sep 1995 15:29:36 -0500 (EST) From: Duncan Brown Subject: On the road again... All, Tomorrow (monday the 4th) I head up from VA to Rovers North- about a 14 hour drive. I'm going to swap the engine and transmission in my vehicle (a 1960 Series II 88 with canvas top.) This is one of those dicey timing exercises: don't want to replace them if they still have life in them...but can't wait so long that the vehicle can't make a 14 hour trip in one day! Wish me luck. Look for me on the highways. Come rescue me if I break down...heh heh... If all goes well, I'll be back home by Saturday or Sunday, and will be at the BRLRC meet in Edinburg, VA the following weekend...and at the Mid-Atlantic rally at the end of the month! (Still have to check with the wife on that one; asking her right before I abandon her alone with the kids for a week while I traipse up to VT didn't seem prudent...) Psyching myself up for a flaming hot right foot by the time I get there, Duncan From Rob Bailey Sun Sep 3 16:21:28 1995 Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 16:21:28 -0600 (MDT) From: Rob Bailey Subject: Re: ... (and more brake questions) On Sun, 3 Sep 1995, Soren Vels Christensen wrote: > I had to remove a rear cylinder with a stuck pipe. So i ordered a kit and > changed the pipe from the rear T-piece along with the cylinder. By checking > the rest of the kit i can see both flying saucers and y's. > Does this help? So your saying that at the T end of the pipe there was a flying saucer and at the wheel cylinder there was a Y? If this pipe you have is a proper Land Rover part, then that explains what I was seeing. It just didn't make sense, and I can't just buy that part at my local store. I will either have to have one made up at a brake place, or order the actual Land Rover part. Thanks, Rob From Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus 3 95 Sep EDT 1920 Date: 3 Sep 95 20:44:21 EDT From: Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus Subject: Re: Rovers and Ham (radio, that is) I stand proud with the porcine members of the list... As a matter of fact, anybody got a good suggestion for mounting a 2 meter/440 antenna without punching holes in the old aluminum beast? Your humble servant, Alan/N1TWY From JDolan2109@aol.com Sun Sep 3 22:02:25 1995 Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 22:02:25 -0400 From: JDolan2109@aol.com Subject: Back and reading Thanks for the help with the mime decoding. First Spenny suggested it and then Todd Houge. Problem 'solved'. So I can read the digest again. It was just such a surprise finding that condition upon return from vacation. And when I followed AOL's suggestion, it just compounded the problem. Now if I can just figure out what those red and yellow knobs do... See 'ya on the old road... Jim '61 88" SW / OD, 1 Bbl weber & 16's (thinktank?) LR....quite possibly one of the best machines yet devised! From jpappa01@interserv.com Sun Sep 3 19:09:35 1995 Date: Sun, 3 Sep 95 19:09:35 PDT From: jpappa01@interserv.com Subject: Re: Lucas John: Sorry to hear of your Lucas experiences on the `87... Perhaps its time to have a go `round with (here comes the dreaded word...) *GROUNDS!* I'd go through the engine bay, and also pop the back of the instrument binnacle off. Just do a quick looksee for connection integrity. Terminal corrosion can be cured by removing terminals, smearing spades with some electrical grease, and refitting. Also make sure that all fuses are seated firmly and that fuse holder ends are electrically clean. Those symptoms sure do sound like one or more bad grounds. Also, and I'm sure that you've already done this - check battery cable integrity and terminal cleanliness/tightness. And no - its not a plot to get you to buy a new Rover!! You already did that - beforehand!! John, feel free to call me at work and I'll try and patch you through to Bill Mauro - our RR guru in the hopes that he might be able to steer to towards some diagnostic procedure(s) short of you bringing the truck down. Hope that you're enjoying the `87 - despite the problems you've had. It's still a Range Rover! Talk soon. cheerz Jim From David John Place Sun Sep 3 21:42:24 1995 Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 21:42:24 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: Rovers and Ham (radio, that is) On 3 Sep 1995, Alan Richer/CAM/Lotus wrote: > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net > I stand proud with the porcine members of the list... [ truncated by lro-digester (was 12 lines)] > beast? > Your humble servant, Alan/N1TWY Well Alan, I used the hole normally filled by a plastic plug on the top of the fender. The holes usually are reserved for the mirrors but I was able to mount a Larson 5/8th in the hole and leave no marks on the vehicle that can't be filled with the plug should I want to sell. Another good spot for the antenna is on the safari rack on a triangle plate across the corner of the rack. On my unit I have a chrome ball on the side wall back of the station wagon window and I have mounts that go on the safari top ladder for mounting an air operated mast. The mast goes up to 40 feet with no guy wires when using a 13 element 2 meter beam but I also use an inverted V on it so it is like having some guying. Dave VE4PN From David John Place Sun Sep 3 21:46:28 1995 Date: Sun, 3 Sep 1995 21:46:28 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: sand ladders I had some great luck today. At a garage sale I bought two sand ladders like on the Camel Trophy for $5.00. The fellow thought they were very long steps that needed to be welded on to be of use. The neat thing is I used them before I got home. I came across a Dodge Caravan down to the frame in soft sand. I put the two under the front drive wheels and he drove out with little trouble. They are going to be a nice addition to my safari top. Dave VE4PN From GElam30092@aol.com Mon Sep 4 01:00:33 1995 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 01:00:33 -0400 From: GElam30092@aol.com Subject: Accessories for the Discovery I am currently in training for the sheriff's dept. volunteer group. I plan to join the 4WD Posse upon completion of training. The 4WD Posse participates in search and rescue, getting "ground pounders" to the right spot, showing the "flag" when necessary, guarding access roads during fires, etc. By showing the flag, an example is a drive by shooting in a local town which is about 1 square mile. There were ten 4WD vehicles asked to maintain a Sheriff's presence for the rest of the day. You have to pass a required number of hours of training including the same firearms training that the deputies are subjected to as well as defensive tactics, OC spray (yes..we were sprayed), first aid, mechanical restraints, traffic control, etc. For the 4WD Posse, your vehicle has to be white (for easier spotting in the From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Mon Sep 4 18:44:40 1995 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 18:44:40 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: Bull Bars and Bambi and Skippy Mike writes. costs". While this philosophy is truely exemplary, in all situations not just road kill it fails to take into account one over-riding factor. The animal. Damage to vehicles at least here in OZ is not restricted to frontal impacts. A good friend has had a ute (non L/R) written off following a roll-over after being hit in the side by a large Roo. 'Ol Skip head butts the car knocks himself out and falls under the rear tyre.... and over we go. Seen lots of badly damaged panels on curb side of cars following "Run ins" with Heavy metal affected skippys, even seen one skip stagger up shake his head a few times and hop rather unsteadily away after totalling both passenger doors and the rear quarter panel on a Land-cruiser. Trouble with Roos is that the literally just Jump out in front of you.... Now Buffalo (before they all got shot :-( are different, they sort of swagger out and stand there... Usually just over the crest of a hill or around that blind sweeper. Aint no bull bar made gonna save ya from one of those suckers.... Even the road-train drivers didnt like to tangle with the big ones (Road-train= 3 tri-axle semis all linked together 120+ meters long 100+ ton and untill regulations changed speeds up to 160+ KMH). Plenty of Kenworths and Macks with twisted chassis in the wreckers in Katherine about 10 years back. Now where was I... Oh yeh Roo/Bull bars.. There is a distinction between the two you know. Basically none of the bars over here look much like what you see in LRO-magazine under the title "Brush guard". The traditional "Bull-bar" consists of 4 I (i) beam uprights with plenty of tubular cross bars to fill in the gaps and a big box or C channel bumper.They are basically flat flat in profile and slope slightly away from the vehicle. Sometimes called Mack type bars. Most of the modern "sculptured" bars seem to be based on this pattern (ie are perpendicular to the ground in profile). The Roo bar by contrast is typically made from almost exclusively from tubular material, with the exception of the bar that replaces the bumper which usually is of a solid box section. They are much cheaper and lighter, but are designed so that one bar in the middle protrudes a long way forward of the vehicle. (if the bar is laid on the ground with the vehicle side down it will present a triangular profile side on). The idea of this is to push the offending animal down and under the vehicle rather than up and over the bonnet and thru the window.. (There was something on the media a few months ago about some guy who was killed when a roo came thru the screen and couldnt get out, anyone over here remember the details?) > Glad to see you back on the net. With so little traffic from AU/SA we'd > thought roo's buggered the whole bloody lot! Nah, just been out dodging Elk and red-deer at Bundaleer (near Jamestown) (on private land) and Roos at Burra. Well I've rambled on too long already. Any questions???? -- Daryl From sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM Mon Sep 4 10:34:44 1995 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 95 10:34:44 BST From: sreddock@VNET.IBM.COM Subject: Heretic! CC'd from my posting to the UK-lro thingy. Subject: Heretic! Hi all, yesterday I was pootling along the A32 (just north of Portsmouth) and I came across some of those orange castrol arrows which mark motor sports events. Never one to pass motor sport I pulled in. It turns out that it was the tail end of a gymkhana being run by Hants & Berks ROC. After lurking for a few minutes I started talking to a couple of the organisers. The long and short of it was that if I joined the club I couldn't enter any competitions. Apparently my lightweight isn't good enough for them. The problem lies with the engine. A year ago I went playing in the mud at Cannock and sucked an air filter full of water into the engine. It got me home but not much further. Time for a new engine. After weighing up lots of alternatives I decided on a Ford V6 for the following reasons: I needed to tow a heavy trailer (about a tonne and a half). I needed more performance. Fuel economy would be nice. I was at the time a student & therefore broke. I picked up a second hand 2.8 Granada lump with all the fitting kits & other bits from a bloke who wanted something different in his lightweight, for what seemed to be a reasonable price. The fact that it appears to have had ring sealant or something similar in it is a minor problem as the engine gave up a few months later. Thanks for that, mate! The V6 is actually easier to fit than the V8 (the other obvious choice) and only requires a quick lump to the footwell with a hammer, rather that lots of cutting and welding. I now have an engine which provides a reasonable amount of power & torque. Enough in fact for me to leave most cars in a cloud of tyre smoke at the lights if I choose. I also managed a whole 23 MPG whilst towing a trailer (only half a tonne or so) from Birmingham to Portsmouth, and I wasn't hanging around either. So I haven't destroyed my Land Rover with the power, they can after all cope with a V8. Externally it looks standard, apart from the larger exhaust pipe. It makes no more noise than standard. Off road abilities are improved, although I suspect the front axle weight is up a bit. This is not good enough for the Association of Rover Clubs (the ARC) however. I have defiled my Land Rover, it is no longer pure and therefore cannot take part in anything to do with the ARC. Why not? Land Rover themselves have done the same thing, first with VM engines and now a BMW lump. I could understand them objecting to modified vehicles in general if they were a concourse club or similar. They are quite happy with Hybrids and other modifications, even though these vehicles are also implying that (here's the heresy) Land Rover designers aren't perfect and the cars can be improved. Is there anybody out there an the committee of the ARC who would like to comment on this? I cannot fault the Hants & Berks ROC however. They where very welcoming and friendly (even to a heretic who turned up on a motor bike) and would have happily taken my money to join, but not let me enter the competitions. They were bound by the ARC's rules however. I believe that the Range Rover Register have had to leave the ARC for exactly this reason. Isn't it time that the ARC realised that Land Rovers are the best even after they have had engine upgrade? Steve Reddock, Lightweight V6 (and proud of it!) From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 04 95 Sep EDT 1905 Date: 04 Sep 95 05:43:25 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Accessories for the Discovery > Is there anyone out there with any experience with these types of > accessories? Is there a source that you might recommend? Any help is > greatly appreciated. There are a number of special catalogues from Land Rover as well as aftermarket suppliers for custom Discovery/Range Rover add-ons such as police lights, rifle & ammo boxes, gun racks, loadspace mount for anti- aircraft gun (oops, sorry, that's for the Defender 130)... Don't know if LR dealers in the US have these catalogues, but maybe they can get them for you. Stefan From Mr Ian Stuart Mon Sep 4 10:52:00 1995 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 10:52:00 +0000 From: Mr Ian Stuart Subject: Re: Bull Bars and Bambi and Skippy On 4 Sep 95, Daryl Webb wrote: > Well I've rambled on too long already. Any questions???? Yes, Why are they called BULLbars? If the idea is to avoid tangling with 'Roos call them roobars. If the idea is to avoid tangling with flora call them bushbars. ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. or From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Mon Sep 4 19:46:20 1995 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 19:46:20 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: Bull Bars why??? Ian Writes: > Why are they called BULLbars? Sort of a generic thing I guess. In The good old days the large flat 4 post type were the "Bull bar". Supposed to protect you from Bulls.... Calves and small cows yes, Bulls... all 1100+Kg yeh right... The commercial ones look nothing like the mobile railway tracks seen on Bull Catchers. > If the idea is to avoid tangling with 'Roos call them roobars. They are/were > If the idea is to avoid tangling with flora call them bushbars. Never a term used much here in Oz probably due to the prevelance of the more robust Bull/Roo bars. Have heard people use the term "scrub bar" but not often. cheers -- Daryl From Mike Rooth Mon Sep 4 11:35:19 1995 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 95 11:35:19 BST From: Mike Rooth Subject: Re: Bull Bars and Bambi and Skippy > To change subscription write to: Majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net [ truncated by lro-digester (was 23 lines)] > ----** Ian Stuart (Computing Officer) +44 31 650 6205 > Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. > or I suspect that this is the advertising industry,currentley hoist bt its own dewberry-firkin,at least over here.We've had them called Nerf bars,nudge bars,brush bars etc.But how much more MACHO is the term BULL bar.London again.So now the press doesnt like 'em. Surprise,surprise.You've only got to go to an agricultural show, and look at a fully grown two ton Hereford bull to realise that front bumper mounted field gate or no,hit one of these beasts, and you're *dead*. Question.Do our African friends call 'em Rhino Bars,or have they got more sense? Cheers Mike Rooth From Gerald Tan Mon Sep 4 09:32:11 1995 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 09:32:11 GMT From: Gerald Tan Subject: Land Rovers! Hello! Do you cater for the American market mainly, or can you also accomodate UK based enquiries? If not, have you any suggestions on where I can post UK based queries?...Thanks. Gerald. From dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Mon Sep 4 20:46:24 1995 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 20:46:24 +0930 (CST) From: dwebb@waite.adelaide.edu.au (Daryl Webb) Subject: Re: Bull Barset al Miek tells us quite correctly: > Surprise,surprise.You've only got to go to an agricultural show, > and look at a fully grown two ton Hereford bull to realise that > front bumper mounted field gate or no,hit one of these beasts, > and you're *dead*. That would seem to be the basic fact that some of the advertising people in London (or Sydney or New York) have yet to grasp. Still for as long as I can remember the bigger more robust "field gates " have been called "Bull-bars" Still such things are of some use at least for the overlander. It is actualy possible to "hit" a Bull at speed and survive. I'll never forget the size of the dry-cleaning bill after we *just* clipped the tail of a big buff on the Arnhem highway many years ago.... Just caught the last 6 or so inches of the tail with the Bull-bar at about 120Kmh. He was none too impressed, the noise sure woke up everybody in the car.... cheers -- Daryl From Andrew Grafton Mon Sep 4 12:22:43 1995 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 95 12:22:43 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Re: Bull Bars and Bambi and Skippy > If the idea is to avoid tangling with 'Roos call them roobars. > If the idea is to avoid tangling with flora call them bushbars. And for those which will only ever tangle with pedestrians...!? All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk From "GAWIE VAN BLERK" Mon Sep 4 13:39:49 1995 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 13:39:49 GMT+200 From: "GAWIE VAN BLERK" Subject: Re: LR books Hi Lloyd & LROs You wrote: > Does anyone have recommendations re forward-facing fold-up seats to > mount in the rear of a SIII LWB HT ? I am currently constructing just this for my 110 Hardtop. It is a design as you go job so I am not yet sure what it will look like. So far I've made four seats and backs. This was done taking a 495x395 (300x395 for the back) 17mm chipboard, putting a piece of packing chipped foam (sponge) on top and covering with aritficial leather. All this was from scrap materials. For the rest I am not yet quite sure. Thinking of making a 25mm angle iron frame to fit these on and then ..... _ / / / / /_/ / +------__<>O <---- Folding gadget |------____ / +----- Sliding rail with bolts | / | L______/ V [======T===T=======================] 100mm space for easy entry/exit | | | | V | +--------------------+ +--------------------+ | | | | | | | | | | | | +--------------------+ +--------------------+ [] [] [] [] +--------------------+ +--------------------+ | | | | +--------------------+ +--------------------+ | | Let me know if you get any better ideas Greetings Gawie Gawie van Blerk --------------------------------------------------------------- Internet : A48462@bfnnfs01.eskom.co.za (work) : gawie@pixie.co.za (home) URL : http://www.pix.za/0/business/bloemfontein/gawie.html Tel : 27+51+404-2421 --------------------------------------------------------------- From Mark Ritter <70472.1130@compuserve.com> 04 95 Sep EDT 1908 Date: 04 Sep 95 08:27:38 EDT From: Mark Ritter <70472.1130@compuserve.com> Subject: Lock-Rite diff on Disco About a week ago I installed a Lock-Rite locking diff in the rear of my Disco.The install took about 6 hours ( never been inside a diff before) and invlved removing the spider and side gears and replacing them with dog clutches. Once done I took the vehicle out for a quick trial run. On the street there was no change except for a mild clicking noise as ththe outside wheel unlocks so that it can travel faster in a turn. This is not an objectionable sound and is minimized be using a heavy diff lube such a Lucas (no relation) oil stabilizer. I found a road construction site that provided an 18" embankment so tthat I could get two wheels of the Disco off the ground (the acid test). I stopped the vehicle going uphill with the right front and left wheels hanging in mid air and with the center diff lock off just idled up the embankment. The second test was a steep 30' uneven slope about 15" high. normally this obstacle requires a good bit of momentum to overcome due to getting cross axeled. The Lock-rite equipped Disco just crawled up with no tire spin or drama, and with much more control. I can heartily reccomend this product for the auto box Disco. The company is conducting tests on other Rovers ( I believe they already have a unit for the RR). The series vehicles had some problems initially due to the slop in their drivetrain but the company had devised a solution to this and is currenty testing it. The units run about $400 and for someone with a bit of mechanical experience installation will not be a problem. you do not have to reset the pinion as you use your original carrier. The phone # for the company is: 1-800-Lockers The units come with a one year warranty and unlike some other difflocks are simple and robust like the vehicles we love. Just think now I can get stuck where NOBODY ELSE can get to! Mark Ritter 94 Disco ps. Tell Lock-Rite you saw it on the Rover-Net From Andrew Grafton Mon Sep 4 13:36:12 1995 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 95 13:36:12 BST From: Andrew Grafton Subject: Re: LR SIII HT forward facing seats > > Does anyone have recommendations re forward-facing fold-up seats to > > mount in the rear of a SIII LWB HT ? In case you missed it, I'll repeat that the rear seat from one of the older, smaller Suzuki jeeps (the kind that kept falling over going round corners) fits nicely between the wheel boxes of a LWB, facing forward or turned around to face backwards. The back of the seat folds down as required and you could add a pivot on the front to allow the seats to fold up near the front of the load-bed if required. Fitting is simple, using a few blocks of wood and bolts. Ours is bolted onto the load-bed and is removeable in its entirety by undoing the bolts, leaving the pickup bed flat and 'untouched' All the best, Andy A.J.Grafton@lut.ac.uk P.S. Getting in and out is accomplished by climing over the seats! From Dr Peter Ramsay Mon Sep 4 15:15:19 1995 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 15:15:19 +0200 (SAST) From: Dr Peter Ramsay Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest Hi all Greetings from sunny South Africa! Since BMW took control of Land Rover in South Africa they have been causing quite a bit of trouble for the smaller, non-BMW approved service garages and threatening these guys with legal action because they use the trade mark "Land Rover" or similar such as "Landy" in their business name. Most of these companies have been around much longer than the relatively new BMW-Land Rover take over. Could anyone in the group know if this is happening in other parts of the world and if so how successful are the Land Rover service garages in opposing the BMW action. I would appreciate any correspondence. Best wishes Peter PS. Proud owner of a 1984 110 V8 pick-up fondly refered to as "The Brick with an Aircraft Engine". ********************************************************************** Dr Peter J Ramsay Marine Geoscience Unit P O Box 18091 Dalbridge, 4014 Durban South Africa Tel (+2731) 811260 Fax (+2731) 2602280 ********************************************************************** From "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> 04 95 Sep EDT 1909 Date: 04 Sep 95 09:58:51 EDT From: "Stefan R. Jacob" <100043.2400@compuserve.com> Subject: Introducing: EUROLINK Just thought I'd throw this in here, in case it interests anybody. As the subject matter implies, it is of primary interest to European-based LR owners and European LR clubs. The following is a draft letter from and by Krister Bergknut, Hon.Chairman of the Swedish Land Rover Club ("Svensk Land Rover Klubb") but who is currently resident in Norway and also closely affiliated with the Norwegian LRC. I'm forwarding this 'as is' to let the Internet roverheads know what's going on at committee level in the European LR club scene... *********************** BEGIN of forwarded text *********************** "The Future of EUROLINK ------------------------------------------------------------------------- The future of EUROLINK was discussed in Hunderfossen when the Norwegian Land Rover Club celebrated its 20 birthday. Some 25 people from seven countries and 15 LR clubs took part in the discussion. ARC was represented by Andrew Stavordale, secretary. LRO had sent Sue Combridge to cover the event and she was as well involved in the discussions about EUROLINK. The aim of EUROLINK is to link Land Rover owners in Europe, and the rest of the world, together. This will be done in three ways: - encourage one or several clubs to arrange an annual meeting where the "grand Finale" is the first Saturday in August. With a fixed date like that You can plan Your vacations several years ahead. - keep a current and updated list of Land Rover Clubs in Europe and the rest of the world. It was very clear in the meeting that this is an important task. - keep a list of events over the year in different countries. Please send a complete address of your club, with telephone and telefax-number and e-mail address if there is one. Add the mobile telephone number of some person available for contact - you might need an instant contact if you are in a foreign country and need assistance! This list of addresses might be regularly published in LRO and by ARC. We will try to make it available in Internet. The celebration of 50 Years Land Rover was discussed and the meeting came to the following conclusion: There will be many opportunities to participate in celebrations in England 1998, for those who wish to go there and can afford it. A EUROLINK meeting in England can never compete with existing arrangements. The Dutch and/or German Land Rover Clubs have suggested that they arrange a meeting to celebrate Land Rover 50 Years somewhere in Holland or Germany. This suggestion was strongly supported by ARC, and Andrew Stavordale promised the full support from ARC. We will do our best to get full support from Land Rover - of course." ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ********************* END of forwarded text ********************* FYI, Krister Bergknut can be e-mailed at krister.bergknut@postbox.postnet.se Maybe someone would like to offer him and the EUROLINK project a 'niche' in one of the established and well-known Roverweb-sites? Or what about http://www.tvnorge.no/~terje/ ? (you out there, Terje? Quit lurkin'...) Would seem like the appropriate place to me. BTW this EUROLINK thing is an *inter-club project* at committee level, so don't bombard poor Krister with individual mails. Instead, get in touch with your club, find out if there's interest, and have someone of at least committee status, preferably the Prez or Secretary, get in touch with Krister. The idea is to organize and concentrate, and not to scatter and dissipate efforts. Another example of what EUROLINK is supposed to be about: One project discussed at the meeting in Norway (though Krister hasn't mentioned it above) was to organize competitive events in the manner of 'Trophys' where mixed crews are teamed up from different clubs and nationalities; so, a winner would be "Team so-and-so", and not 'Club A' or 'Country B'. Enjoy, Stefan From steve gross Mon Sep 4 08:20:03 1995 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 95 08:20:03 PDT From: steve gross Subject: RE: Soft tops on the D90 Regarding repair or replacement of the Tickford top on the D90, the official policy of LRNA is to replace snaps that break locally. If a zipper breaks or any other damage occurs, the top is to be replaced with a reconditioned Tickford (Not Bestop). There is a special part number for reconditioned Tickford tops. -steve Stephen C. Gross Pilot B737 America West Airlines Phoenix, AZ From Sanna@aol.com Mon Sep 4 11:55:37 1995 Date: Mon, 4 Sep 1995 11:55:37 -0400 From: Sanna@aol.com Subject: Re: Bull Bars, Bambi, Skippy, & Moo Well, I've bitten my tounge long enough. Two subjects not, as of yet, introduced in this thread are 1) offensive use of a Moo Bar, and 2) hitting Bossie without one. Of the first: During an end-of-the-day, heated argument with the owner of a car wash (details withheld), he had one of his minions roll sand-filled plastic barrels (oil drum- size, partially filled) accross the drive to close off the entrance (he does it every night). However, I was trapped on the inside, and after breaking it off with the owner, I exited straight through one of the barrels at about 20 mph. I took the obstruction in the right side of the bar, exploding the barrel and throwing it about 80 feet. The only mark to my RR was a slight black scrub on the wing, where the bar flexed back on impact and touched the body. The bar sprung back to it's original position after absorbing the shock, and the black rubbed off later with a cloth. The second: Back in the early '70's I was driving my IIa (no Moo Bar) through open range in Nevada, when a calf jumped in front of 'ol Lulubelle. I took her square on at about 45 mph, tossing her on the hood, off the windshield, and then back to the pavement when I braked. Except for an enormous amount of **** all over the screen & hood ( she lost all bowel & bladder control), the Rover was unscathed. The calf, however, did not fare so well. After driving some 20 miles to find the rancher, he put her away due to a broken back. Anyway, it all turned out OK (except for the calf). The rancher had veal for a month, Lulubel