From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 1 09:18:56 1994 Date: Wed, 01 Jun 1994 09:57:01 EDT From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE) To: land-rover-owner@stratus.com Subject: BAe Woes Status: RO I've always thought that there had to be another reason why British Aerospace sold off Rover, other than the corporate line "to concentrate on core defense business." (BAe's US headquarters near Dulles Airport with over a quarter of a million square feet of office and R&D space is for sale, too). Well, perhaps this is it...BAe's equivalent of Lucas torpedos that try to fly. For our European members and those down under, let me bring you up to speed. The city of Denver, Colorado is building a giant new airport to replace 65 year old Stapleton Airport which has become hemmed-in by urban development; the new one, 20 miles east of downtown, will be the hub for United and Continental airlines. Initially due to open last October, then December, later postponed to March, now May, no one really knows when it will open. Some say that DIA (Denver International Airport) should stand for Due In August or Done In Awhile. Maybe DOA is more appropriate. With an overall price tag of 3.2 billion dollars, interest on the loans is accruing at the prodigious rate of a million dollars a day. The airport is huge: it covers 53 square miles, has five runways and three parallel concourses and designed to handle more than 3 million passengers a year. As the passenger terminals are up to a mile apart, the entire airport has been constructed around a $200 million automated baggage handling system...designed and built by BAe. To be polite, it doesn't work. Because of the distances involved, not ot mention the winter weather, the tug and cart approach used at other airports won't work. Then again, neither does the hi-tech approach: a system of 4,000 individual carts zipping about at up to 22 MPH on 21 miles of steel track all controlled by 100 computers working on 400 radio frequencies trying to deliver 1,400 bags a minute to 20 airlines. Can you see a potential software problem here? Is the tern SNAFU totally appropriate? (Some feel that BAE should stand for "bags are everywhere.") As there is no fall-back or alternative, the (completed) airport won't open until the system works. Considering the size of the contract, it would not be unreasonable to expect a penalty clause of a quarter of a million dollars a day. So maybe BAe had to sell Rover to settle a few bills. *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----* | | | Sandy Grice, Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com FAX: 804-622-7056 | | Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days) 804-423-4898 (Evenings) | | 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA | *------------------------------------------------------* From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 1 09:29:53 1994 From: Dan Chayes Subject: fuel level sender unit To: lro@stratus.com Date: Wed, 1 Jun 94 10:19:40 EDT Mailer: Elm [revision: 66.25] Status: RO Hi - 1) Thanks to those of you who replyed to the question of oil distribution problems with the rocker arm - all seems to be working well. The rover is back on the road with all the proper tags, emission documents, stickers etc. 2) The gas gague was not working so i removed the sender unit and checked it with an ohm meter. I was working erratically so i dissambled the unit and discoved that the wires upon which the "wiper" arm moves were broken in several places. I looks like time for a replacement. Does any one know a good source (RN price $80) for this part? Is this unit a "standard" lucas? part and does anyone have the cross referance number. 3) Does anybody know the source for the special kit that turns an 88 into a 109? Seriously, i've been thinking of doing a little touring into northeastern canada ( labrador and newfoundland ) and it seems that perhapse i would be better off with a 109 station wagon with a tropical roof. I found a '61 series IIa in florida, "no rust", new 2.25l petrol engine. The owner is asking $8k. I could sell my '74 88 series III Any suggestions ? Any advice of roadtrips to labrador and newfoundland from the northern members of this list ? Any body been there ? 4) the other day at the gas station what is that ? It looks like a little hummer. sure kid what ever you say. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- dan the landrover owners list dan@hp8c.nrl.navy.mil where people who can't spell feel at home From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 1 10:31:40 1994 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Date: Wed, 1 Jun 1994 11:22:52 -0400 To: lro@transfer.stratus.com From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Subject: dieseling experiment Status: RO In my never-ending (previously-posted-about) quest to end dieseling, I randomly decided to change from using the lowest octane fuel I could find, to something more "premium." After about 3 weeks of this regimen, my rover seems to have ceased dieseling entirely. I am not sure it's worth the extra $50/year in fuel costs, but at least I have a better handle on the problem. -jory From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 1 12:07:47 1994 From: Russell Burns Subject: Re: Rudolph renamed? To: mb@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca Date: Wed, 1 Jun 94 9:53:15 MDT Cc: lro@stratus.com In-Reply-To: ; from "Michele Bertrand" at May 31, 94 5:50 pm Status: RO How about afterglow... Russ > > Well, well, I think Rudolph deserves a new name. And yhis is why: I was > driving Rudolph last week and, trying out the fourth gear, I hit a major > bump at speed, causing the whole vehicle to rattle and shake. Up to now, > there is nothing unusual, but wait! The impact was strong enough to move > aside the bracket that was holding the ammeter (non-genuine), causing one > of the two wires to touch the ammeter's casing. And yes, you can imagine > what happened: FIRE!! I had just the time to pull aside, get the fire > extinguisher off of its bracket and try to kill the flames through holes > in the firewall, from the cab and the engine compartment. Oh well, > unplugged the battery, pushed the thing back in the garage and I didn't > have time to change the burnt wires and blowned up ammeter since.... > > So, any ideas for a new name or should it remain Rudolph? > How about Afterburner, Fried White Land Rover, British Toaster, Four > Wheel Drive Barbecue or even Lucas Shiskabab? > > I'll be waiting for your suggestions and your good laughs while I'll be > putting it back on the road, after refilling my fire extinguisher. By the > way, we all should have one in our vehicle. It does reduce the damages > when used promptly. > > Michel Bertrand and "Well-done Rudolph", Ottawa, Ontario, Canada > > "No, Mom, those fumes and flames were not factory options..." > > > -- > Michele Bertrand, mb@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca > FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada > From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 1 18:05:29 1994 X-Msmail-Message-Id: 1B10B3E8 X-Msmail-Conversation-Id: 1B10B3E8 From: Edward Balassanian To: lro@stratus.com Date: Wed, 1 Jun 94 15:53:16 TZ Subject: land rover dealers in SoCal Status: RO Does anyone know the name/number of a rover dealer in southern cal. I hear their prices are lower than in Seattle for the defender 90. thanks, Edward From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 1 11:09:31 1994 From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Re: Rudolph renamed? To: mb@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca Date: Wed, 1 Jun 94 12:01:01 EDT Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com In-Reply-To: ; from "Michele Bertrand" at May 31, 94 5:50 pm Mailer: Elm [revision: 66.36.1.1] Status: RO Fireside chat snipped > So, any ideas for a new name or should it remain Rudolph? > How about Afterburner, Fried White Land Rover, British Toaster, Four > Wheel Drive Barbecue or even Lucas Shiskabab? How about "Sparky"? From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 1 11:29:37 1994 Date: Wed, 1 Jun 94 12:16:23 EDT From: "THE X WINDOW SYSTEM: A VMS FOR THE 90S" To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Apparently-To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Re: Rudolph renamed? Status: RO Why change it? "Rudolph with your nose so bright..." is so apropos now.... :-) monty From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 1 12:43:24 1994 Date: Wed, 1 Jun 1994 13:32:48 -0400 (EDT) From: Jon Humphrey To: lro@stratus.com, mb@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca Subject: Re: Rudolph renamed? In-Reply-To: Status: RO Michele asks; > So, any ideas for a new name or should it remain Rudolph? >How about Afterburner, Fried White Land Rover, British Toaster, Four >Wheel Drive Barbecue or even Lucas Shiskabab? How about "Kindle Wagon, or Tinder Box"? Which reminds me to get a Fire extinguisher for mine. Jon From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 1 15:38:31 1994 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Date: Wed, 1 Jun 1994 16:27:47 -0400 To: lro@transfer.stratus.com From: jory@MIT.EDU (jory bell) Subject: Mid America Rover/L.E.G.S. Status: RO today i talked to mike hoskins (816-763-3797) about possibly getting on of the modified xfer boxes with a higher high (in lieu of an overdrive). he is listed as the us agent (in the faq) for L.E.G.S. of england which vends this and other conversions. he also does his own work (seemingly both "normal" repair and custom stuff), and sells several other conversions. i've included a copy of my notes from our conversation below. some of this info should probably find its way into the faq. mike was very nice, and liked to talk about rovers and particularly unusual things you could do to them using both english and us parts (in particular he seemed to like chevy/ford engines, brakes, gearboxes, engine parts, etc). anyway... mike hoskins mid america rover 10708 college ave kansas city, MO 64137 the high speed ("hyspeed")case is a series one case (the ser i had a smaller diameter intermediate shaft and bearing, allowing them to offset it and weld on some gears). gives $50 for overdrive in trade $150 for old xfer case (not sure if ths is US$ or pounds?) cannot use overdrive with new xfer case 450 pounds + about US$200 shipping as well as taxes, etc need to tighten special nut to 85 lbs (overtighten and you can break your mainshaft)... he will lend tool he made to do this you get a 27-32% gearing increase with this box optimal delivery timimng: you get your new box within about 8 days of him getting your money... but that can get stopped up at the shop in england (they like to do 3 at a time mimimum). also offers a 5-speed conversion (using the LT77 RR gearbox and a 2a xfer case... only need to modify cover, everything else remains stock.. although it is a tight fit.) this costs about $2200. can mate it to most any engine (v6, 2.5, 2.25, etc). has not actually installed this one yet (sounds like a L.E.G.S. product). he talked about a lot of other wacky conversion stuff he is trying to do. chevy drums on the rover (that way you also get an extra parking break... "great for winching").. rebuilds rover heads with chevy bearings, rockers, etc for very low cost... wants to see supplier list from lro... also said he now offers a 1 year warranty instead of a 6 month as presently stated in the faq (i read him his "entry"). he promptly faxed me his (in my opinion confusing) L.E.G.S. price list: (prices in pounds sterling): engines: short long full 3 bearing 2.25 380 680 1080 5 bearing 2.25 480 780 1180 petrol 1380 diesel 2.5 580 930 1480 2.5 turbo 780 1080 1880 plus shipping of from 220 to 310 250 core charge gearboxes: series I,II,IIA 230.75 series III 276.75 plus shipping 210 and 200 core charge export box: 464.75 (transmission alone, all new internal parts) plus 130 shipping, 150 core charge hyspeed xfer case 450.25 (150 core) LT77 5 speed 400.00 (200 core) LT230 xfer case 470.00 (200 core) all prices plus customs/tax From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 1 18:03:29 1994 From: tomills@diana.cair.du.edu (T.F. Mills) Subject: Re: BAe Woes To: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE) Date: Wed, 1 Jun 1994 15:47:34 -0600 (MDT) Cc: lro@stratus.com In-Reply-To: <013.00792365.CXKS46A@prodigy.com> from "MR ALEXANDER P GRICE" at Jun 1, 94 09:57:01 am Content-Type: text Content-Length: 1055 Status: RO Sandy Grice's report on Denver International Airport was entertaining, but I think erroneous in key particulars. While the Denver International Airport baggage system certainly resembles Lucas torpedoes, as far as I can tell the designer BAE Automated Systems of Dallas, Texas, is no relation to British Aerospace. And BAe's sale of the Rover Group was announced about two months before the DIA baggage scandal broke. BAE (the Dallas baggage people, not the Brits) has not yet been faulted in the scandal since they are not in control of their own product. The situation (which will probably topple the Denver government) is a complex political one involving many local contractors, and some local incompetence which has not yet been pinpointed. Maybe they should scrap the computers and tracks and use Land Rovers. Myself, I'd drive a thousand miles in my own Rover before I trusted anything at DIA. T. F. Mills tomills@diana.cair.du.edu University of Denver Library 2150 E. Evans Ave. Denver CO 80208 USA From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 1 17:13:06 1994 Date: Wed, 1 Jun 1994 16:57:04 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: fuel level sender unit To: Dan Chayes Cc: lro@stratus.com In-Reply-To: <199406011419.KAA09728@transfer.stratus.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Status: RO Well I don't live in Nfld or in Eastern Canada, but I do live in Manitoba. I have had 8 Land Rovers, and I agree, that for long trips the long wheel base is the way to go. For off road, the 88 is still the champ. I often travel up the Northern ice road system, and the long wheel base is the answer there as well. Our gas is quite expensive, and in Nflnd you will probably pay close to 60 cents per litre. The is about $3.00 per gal. Canadian. An extra fuel tank is necessary as well as emergency road parts and survival kit. There is a nice 109 for sale in Manitoba for $4000 Canadian. That is about .74 cents on the dollar against the U.S. dollar, so you would get one cheap enough to do all kinds of repairs and still have a vehicle less than the $8000. I paid $500 for my 1970 with a bad engine but it now lookks and runs like new and I spent perhaps $2000 on it in total. Our prices are very low on these vehicles. Cheers Dave VE4PN From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 1 17:19:53 1994 Date: Wed, 1 Jun 1994 17:07:03 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: dieseling experiment To: jory bell Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com In-Reply-To: <9406011521.AA09565@MIT.EDU> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Status: RO Hi am Dave Place up in Manitoba Canada. I have found two ways to stop the diesel problem in my 8 Land Rovers. The first is the easiest. I use Gasahol for a short period and it cleans out the carbon which is the cause of the problem. The carbon gets red hot and ofter you turn off the engine, if there is any fuel unburned, it fires. The other way is something you can do every 5000 miles or so. Take of the breather pipe and pour a little water into the carb air intake. About a spoon full at a time is sufficient. You had better do this out in the open because you will get a lot of white smoke. It knocks the carbon off the pistons and other parts and stops the run on problem. Dont put so much in you stall the engine or you will have a problem starting the engine. If you are careful, you won't hurt anything, and it will be de-coked as we limeys say. Cheers Dave ham radio VE4PN From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 1 17:27:19 1994 Date: Wed, 1 Jun 1994 17:12:23 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: fuel level sender unit To: Dan Chayes Cc: lro@stratus.com In-Reply-To: <199406011419.KAA09728@transfer.stratus.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Status: RO Re your sender problem. You need to know the ohm reading of the sender unit and then you can use anything with the same ohms of resistance. Apart from the mounting problem, any sender will work if the guage reads full and empty at each end of the scale. Don't laugh at my spelling, somtimes we Canadians use the english form and it doesn't spell the same way as the American way. I think you spell guage differently. Hi Hi I live up in Selkirk Manitoba about 100 miles north of the American Canadian boarder. I have had eight models from the 88 to the 109. Presently I am running a 1970 Series III with both the inner and outer lights and lots of series II stuff to make it a tougher vehicle. It has both tops, safari rack and winch. It has been restored in loden green and sand and looks like factory new. Bye for now. Dave VE4PN (ham radio) From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 1 07:13:17 1994 From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Date: 2 Jun 94 00:01:52 GMT To: land-rover-owner@stratus.com Message-Service: mail Phone: 201-564-2073 Subject: Red Hot Rover Content-Type: Text Status: RO Michele, I was riding on the Northway to the ABP off road event 2 years ago when the 88 I was a passenger in caught fire. We pulled over in a big hurry as I franticly searched for the fire extinguisher. The driver said there was none and we bailed out as soon as it stopped rolling. And the fire went out. I undid his dash and found one wire cooked (I've forgotten which one). I disconnected and wrapped it and turned the key. No fire. Off we went. I must confess it was a very very exciting experience. Once we got on the off road trail we went off road. Or off the road. Literally - we were very close to the right edge of the road (no special reason) and the road gave way and down we went - thankfully onto a boulder which prevented us from rolling down the side of the hill. Talk about an adrenalin trip. Later after getting pulled out of that situation we nailed a large rock outcrop with the transmission crossmember, tearing it out on one side and flattening it on the other (yup, we were going fast). But the tranny stayed put, amazingly - all the way back to ABP. When we arrived, the owner brought it into the shop where Bob Fischer heated the cross member cherry red, used a hydraulic press to return it to its original box shape, and welded it back in place. Fast. And they did't charge him. That was what prompted me to use Bob to replace my rear cross member. Back to your question. OK, I'll bite. How about "Four by Fahrenheit"? Bill Maloney maloney@wings.attmail.com >> Well, well, I think Rudolph deserves a new name. And yhis is why: I was driving Rudolph last week and, trying out the fourth gear, I hit a major bump at speed, causing the whole vehicle to rattle and shake. Up to now, there is nothing unusual, but wait! The impact was strong enough to move aside the bracket that was holding the ammeter (non-genuine), causing one of the two wires to touch the ammeter's casing. And yes, you can imagine what happened: FIRE!! I had just the time to pull aside, get the fire extinguisher off of its bracket and try to kill the flames through holes in the firewall, from the cab and the engine compartment. Oh well, unplugged the battery, pushed the thing back in the garage and I didn't have time to change the burnt wires and blowned up ammeter since.... So, any ideas for a new name or should it remain Rudolph? How about Afterburner, Fried White Land Rover, British Toaster, Four Wheel Drive Barbecue or even Lucas Shiskabab? I'll be waiting for your suggestions and your good laughs while I'll be putting it back on the road, after refilling my fire extinguisher. By the way, we all should have one in our vehicle. It does reduce the damages when used promptly. Michel Bertrand and "Well-done Rudolph", Ottawa, Ontario, Canada >> From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Wed Jun 1 22:04:14 1994 From: tomills@diana.cair.du.edu (T.F. Mills) Subject: Re: land rover dealers in SoCal To: edwardb@microsoft.com (Edward Balassanian) Date: Wed, 1 Jun 1994 20:55:33 -0600 (MDT) Cc: lro@stratus.com In-Reply-To: <9406012157.AA26909@netmail2.microsoft.com> from "Edward Balassanian" at Jun 1, 94 03:53:16 pm Content-Type: text Content-Length: 398 Status: RO < < Does anyone know the name/number of a rover dealer in southern cal. I < hear their prices are lower than in Seattle for the defender 90. < < thanks, < < Edward I don't know about their prices, but you might try Pioneer Center in San Diego. T. F. Mills tomills@diana.cair.du.edu University of Denver Library 2150 E. Evans Ave. Denver CO 80208 USA From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 2 06:40:23 1994 X-Authentication-Warning: tornadic.sw.stratus.com: Host localhost.stratus.com didn't use HELO protocol To: lro@team.net Subject: forwarded message Date: Thu, 02 Jun 94 07:25:05 -0400 From: William Caloccia Status: RO please send list submissions to 'land-rover-owner@team.net' ------- Forwarded Message Return-Path: umplace@CC.UManitoba.CA Received: from lectroid.sw.stratus.com (lectroid.sw.stratus.com [134.111.10.1]) by tornadic.sw.stratus.com (8.6.4/8.6.4) with ESMTP id VAA17135 for ; Tue, 31 May 1994 21:42:36 -0400 From: umplace@CC.UManitoba.CA Received: from transfer.stratus.com (transfer.stratus.com [134.111.1.10]) by lectroid.sw.stratus.com (8.6.4/8.6.6) with ESMTP id VAA14457 for ; Tue, 31 May 1994 21:42:35 -0400 Received: from canopus.CC.UManitoba.CA (canopus.cc.umanitoba.ca [130.179.16.24]) by transfer.stratus.com (8.6.9/8.6.9) with SMTP id VAA00424 for ; Tue, 31 May 1994 21:42:33 -0400 Received: from mira.cc.umanitoba.ca by canopus.CC.UManitoba.CA (4.1/25-eef) id AA01422; Tue, 31 May 94 20:42:32 CDT Received: by mira.cc.umanitoba.ca (4.1/25-eef) id AA20942; Tue, 31 May 94 20:42:29 CDT Message-Id: <9406010142.AA20942@mira.cc.umanitoba.ca> Subject: Re: Welcome to the land-rover-owner list !!! To: caloccia@sw.stratus.com (William Caloccia) Date: Tue, 31 May 94 20:42:28 CDT In-Reply-To: <199405311556.LAA12249@tornadic.sw.stratus.com>; from "William Caloccia" at May 31, 94 11:55 am X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.3 PL11] Hi Thanks for the welcome. I have had 8 Land Rovers from the long to the short 88 models. At present I have a restored 1970 Ser III with lots of Ser II bits and pieces in it to make it a better vehicle. The trans for example is the Ser IIA with no schyncro. It is loaden green with the sand top and the safari rack. It sports a winch and the interior is black leather. A very nice every day driver. I am a ham radio operator as well with the call VE4PN. Just returned fromRussia where I was with the Red Cross. Worked for your American Red Cross in 1992 on Iniki Hurricane off Hawaii. Only saw one Rover on Hawaii while working there. I will drop a line from time to time as I use the Rover in the North areas here in Canada and some readers might like to know what we do up here. X ------- End of Forwarded Message From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 2 09:54:56 1994 To: lro@stratus.com Subject: Newfoundland trip From: mb@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Michele Bertrand) Reply-To: mb@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 08:38:15 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada Status: RO I have a good friend who lives in St-John's, studying at Memorial University. He loves the place, the scenery is great but it's cold all year long. Basically, all the roads are rough to ride on, (even downtown) so a land rover seems appropriate. He also told me that there was a great number of Land Rovers over there. Could be because Newfoundland was a British colony until 1948 and there is still a strong british patriotism sense. I know that there is a fairly important club over there. It's name is "Newfoundlandrovers". I had the adress somewhere, I will try to dig it up to add it to the FAQ, if its not there already. Michel Bertrand and burned-nose Rudolph, Ottawa, Ontario -- Michele Bertrand, mb@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 2 09:18:04 1994 From: marcus@dcs.qmw.ac.uk Subject: Re: fuel level sender unit To: umplace@CC.UManitoba.CA (David John Place) Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 15:06:38 +0000 (BST) Cc: lro@stratus.com In-Reply-To: from "David John Place" at Jun 1, 94 05:12:23 pm Content-Type: text Content-Length: 318 Status: RO > somtimes we Canadians use the english form and it doesn't spell the same > way as the American way. I think you spell guage differently. Err...yes...well, I dare say Canadians do spell the English way from time to time - but what that has to do with "guage" since we spell it "gauge" in England...:-) Marcus. From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue May 31 07:27:56 1994 From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Date: 1 Jun 94 00:13:39 GMT To: land-rover-owner@stratus.com Message-Service: mail Phone: 201-564-2073 Subject: Hard Top Removal Content-Type: Text Status: RO Ludovico writes: >> But what will happen to my hardtop? How can I store it? Mike Rooth tells me that I will have great difficulty getting it to seal again. What should I do? Thank you Ludovico >> Ludovico, Seal? Seal? You have a Rover that's water tight? Kidding aside, when I replace my hard top in the fall, I run a bead of silicone caulk from a hardware store between the windscreen and hard top front. It peels off pretty easily in the spring during removal. At least it doesn't leak there. As for storage, I remove mine now in 3 peices, top shell and side peices. It seems to make it a little more manageable, and is much easier to store. Depending on your available space, you may be able to store it inside. If not, at least keep it covered. When storing watch the thick rubber seals at the bottom of the side quarter panels. If you lay the top upright with something (like a block of wood) pressing against the seal, it will deform and let in a nasty draft from that spot when replaced next fall. Have Fun Bill IIA 88 & 109 Wagon maloney@wings.attmail.com --- From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 2 15:08:36 1994 To: lro@stratus.com Subject: fuel level sender unit From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 11:04:21 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada Status: RO Dan Chayes writes: > 2) The gas gague was not working so i removed the sender unit > looks like time for a replacement. Does any one know a good > source (RN price $80) for this part? Is this unit a "standard" > lucas? part and does anyone have the cross referance number. Positive earth? Probably Craddocks in the UK (Merseyside doesn't have them) though at what price I am not sure. Negative earth would be far cheaper and more available... > 3) Does anybody know the source for the special kit that turns an 88 into a 109 What? Turn an 88 into a 109? Sure, get the kit than includes frame, springs, a bunch of body bits... Why? > Seriously, i've been thinking of doing a little touring into northeastern > canada ( labrador and newfoundland ) and it seems that perhapse > i would be better off with a 109 station wagon with a tropical roof. > I found a '61 series IIa in florida, "no rust", new 2.25l petrol engine. > The owner is asking $8k. I could sell my '74 88 series III > Any suggestions ? Well, the 109 will be worse on gas, won't go as fast, will hold a lot more stuff, is rarer... How many people will be going on this proposed trek? If it is just you and a friend, I would suggest using the 88. You know what is wrong, might go wrong et cetera. It would be a better risk to bring along than somethig untried. > Any advice of roadtrips to labrador and newfoundland from the northern > members of this list ? Any body been there ? Been there. First off, you cannot drive to either of the places. To have to take a ferry to get the Newfoundland and Labrador (there are no roads to Labrodor along the Quebec north shore. Not that many roads in Labrador period. Drop a line to the Newfoundland tourist authority. They will send you a ton of stuff... Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 2 15:07:31 1994 To: lro@stratus.com Subject: Re: Rudolph renamed? From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 11:14:10 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada Status: RO "THE X WINDOW SYSTEM: A VMS FOR THE 90S" Why change it? "Rudolph with your nose so bright..." is so apropos > now.... :-) Wouldn't the song start: "Rudolph the roasted reindeer..." :-) Rgds, -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 2 13:46:24 1994 To: lro@stratus.com Subject: Re: land rover dealers in SoCal In-Reply-To: Your message of "Wed, 01 Jun 1994 15:53:16 +0700." <9406012157.AA26909@netmail2.microsoft.com> Date: Thu, 02 Jun 1994 11:32:09 -0700 From: Benjamin Allan Smith Status: RO In message <9406012157.AA26909@netmail2.microsoft.com>you write: > Does anyone know the name/number of a rover dealer in southern cal. I > hear their prices are lower than in Seattle for the defender 90. Symes Cadillac-Land Rover 3475 E Colorado Bl Pasadena, CA (818)795-3381 (213)681-5243 I've seen Defender 90s on their lot since they first arrived in the US. I've never dealt with them so I have no idea asto their prices. Benjamin Smith From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 2 14:07:05 1994 From: ranger@ugcs.caltech.edu To: land-rover-owner@stratus.com Subject: Re: Thunder Rover In-Reply-To: Your message of "02 Jun 94 23:54:22 PST." <199406021727.NAA19366@transfer.stratus.com> Date: Thu, 02 Jun 94 11:56:52 PDT Status: RO In message <199406021727.NAA19366@transfer.stratus.com> you write: > The last item I dealt with was drilling the new front bumper for the 88 for > the new D rings my folks brought me from England last summer. Next I have to > decide on a welder to install my new front chassis horns. I'm debating > whether to drive up to Mechanicville (3.5 hours) to have Bob Fischer do the > welding, or try someone locally. The welders that I found around Chatham greatly vary in price and quality. Two years ago I got a Warn winch and mounting plate from RN. I was kinda rushed because I was about to drive out to LA. I found a welding company in Summit and got an estimate. They wanted ~$500 (about 9 hours of labor). This confused me. All they had to do is weld on one piece of steel. A bead on top and a bead on bottom would be ok. Since my bumper is welded on welding some angle bar between the bumper and the frame would be useful. This welder wanted to reweld major chuncks of the frame and add on large amount of metal. Dad and I walked away. Then he found a small welding shop. The job took less than an hour and cost me a whopping $50. This shop was located near the NJ inspection station near Morristown. Unfortunately, I can't remember the street name though. Benjamin Smith From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 2 16:11:27 1994 Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 16:57:03 -0400 (EDT) From: Jon Humphrey To: lro@stratus.com Subject: gas in oil? Status: RO Here is a serious question that has arisen in my brain.(since my last oil change) "Is it possible for me to be getting gas in my oil?" My theory begins with the fact that everytime I shut off the ignition, the carb starts to seep gas around the throttle plate cross bar. It seems like quite a bit while I'm standing there looking at it. Now it seeps out the bar obviously, but wouldn't it also be seeping inside the carb. Past the throttle plate, down into the manifold. down the side of the cylinder and winding up in the sump. Maybe not much at a time, but added up over as many times as I shut off the car, it could significantly thin out the oil. To reinforce this theory, when I changed the oil and filter,about three weeks ago. the pressure was the best it ever has been. It stared up at 60 to 80 and stayed around 45 when hot. This lasted about a week and now it seems like I'm running 10w10 when it's hot, like I'm running kerosene instead of oil. The oil on the stick seems thin also. I used 20w50 kendall when I changed it. I've had the pan off and I can't detect any play whatsoever in the bearings. It didn't use any oil during the first two weeks and I just had to put a quart in after a 100 mile run last sunday. Sorry if I'm rambling on about this. Any comments? Oh yea, I don't think the fuel pump is leaking through the diaphragm. Thanks a lot for any thoughts. Jon From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 2 12:40:32 1994 From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Date: 2 Jun 94 23:54:22 GMT To: land-rover-owner@stratus.com Message-Service: mail Phone: 201-564-2073 Subject: Thunder Rover Content-Type: Text Status: RO I was channel surfing over the weekend and flipped on "Thunder in Paradise". The episode was a take off on the Arnold's movie "Predator" with an alien that uses light bending camoflage. Good special effects but not very original. The two main characters are Vietnam vets and one of them keeps having these flashbacks. In one flashback one rescues the other from a POW "camp" and they race from the camp to a dock to escape on a boat. The warden chases them in a Series III 109 regular soft top, which appears to be bullet proof considering the number of rounds fired at it without creating any holes. I was glad to see the Vietnamese using Solihull's finest. I also discovered that an M-16 can fire several hundred rounds without reloading. Project report: Over the weekend I replaced my carb with one I salvaged and rebuilt from ABP's rally parts dump truck last summer. The carb looked pretty good, cleaned up well, and didn't need much planing to mate up the top to bottom halves. The main reason I wanted to replace my current carb was that the mixture screw when turned in fully would still allow the engine to run - and quite richly at that (yes, I had planed the old carb). This has been a problem each year at NJ state inspection, as our emissions tests are pretty strict. I would have to take it to a garage and have it fiddled with to get it through - usually by increasing the idle (max allowed is 1200rpm by state) but on one occasion the mechanic just loosened the brake vacuum hose and slipped a screwdriver in to allow air in. It got me my sticker. The first time I installed the "new" rebuilt carb last fall, I was finally able to adjust the mixture so that it just smoothed out. I was so happy. Until I took it on the road. I stepped on the gas and...blaaa - no power at all. I pulled it apart and checked for anything obvious, tried again and no change. Off it went and into a box. I stripped it again a few weeks later and pulled every jet and plug on the thing and flushed it with carb then brake parts spray. One jet seemed to give up a bit more gunk than the others but I couldn't find anything obvious. Winter closed in and I put it off till now. I wasn't optimistic that the carb would work this time but it worked very well. Mixture is now fully adjustable and it runs great. I'm not certain exactly what the problem was but at least it's gone. I'm actually looking forward to state inspection this year. I also tested the 18ACR alternator that I picked up for $10 at the British car show in Dover last month. It cost $28 for a new rectifier, regulator, and bearings. The brushes had a lot of life left in them so they stayed put. If you can handle a soldering iron and gear/bearing pullers, it's really no sweat. Just be sure to use a heat sink between the solder point and the diodes when installing the rectifier (hemostats work well). The last item I dealt with was drilling the new front bumper for the 88 for the new D rings my folks brought me from England last summer. Next I have to decide on a welder to install my new front chassis horns. I'm debating whether to drive up to Mechanicville (3.5 hours) to have Bob Fischer do the welding, or try someone locally. That't it for now. (Boy, has the net been quiet the last couple of days) Bill Maloney maloney@wingx.attmail.com From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 2 16:38:05 1994 From: ccray@lulu.cc.missouri.edu Subject: Re: Thunder Rover To: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 16:27:35 -0500 (CDT) Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com (Land-Rover-Owners FORUM) In-Reply-To: <199406021727.NAA19366@transfer.stratus.com> from "maloney" at Jun 2, 94 11:54:22 pm Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Length: 1233 Status: RO maloney was bold enough to point out... >The last item I dealt with was drilling the new front bumper for the 88 for >the new D rings my folks brought me from England last summer. Next I have to >decide on a welder to install my new front chassis horns. I'm debating >whether to drive up to Mechanicville (3.5 hours) to have Bob Fischer do the >welding, or try someone locally. > OK, lets talk about d-rings for awhile. I am getting a shipment -- yes, it *has* left england -- of some used parts from steve parker land rover. Included in the shipment are 6 d-rings. (I like spare parts). I figured one would just put a longer bolt thru the two holes in the front horn that the bumper attaches to. Is this the story. Do I need to drill and put holes in the front bumper, too? Do d-rings get in the way of front bumper extensions, cause I am getting 4 of those, too. ------------------------------------------------------------------- Ray Harder Columbia, Missouri 314-882-2000 - 61 SIIa 88 (LULU) - 66 SIIa 88 (rebuild project) - 69 SIIa 88 (parts) - 87 RR (wife's) - 80 MGB - xx ------------------------------------------------------------------- From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 2 16:42:59 1994 Date: Thu, 2 Jun 94 17:36:06 -0400 From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Nigel update Apparently-To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Status: RO This past weekend was a hoiday (key word) weekend here in the daughterland, but as the sig oth is currently in thesis writing mode I had some free time to put in on daNige. There's more to life (especially during holidays) than bloody knuckle and greasey fingernails, though, so most of you will be unimpressed with the progress (or lack thereof). Saturday morning was spent retrieving my freshly resurfaced flywheel and assorted bits (esp gear oil) needed for the job. The resurfacing job looked just great, but they failed to remove my locator studs and just ground them *both* off. How's about that, Marcus?? (On reassembly, I found that the bolts held it within about 1 mm of any 360 degree direction, and although that 1mm may be critical for balance, having no studs probably isn't any worse than having just one. I did my best to center the clutch on the flywheel before tightening it down just by lifting it ever so slightly and paying close attention to the location at the sides and center....ie I eyeballed it. The RN folks said it would be just fine, and made no attempt to talk me into a $180 SIIa flywheel with three studs.....we'll see how long my crank lasts now). Once the block was secured from above (used a chain around the exhaust manifold since my only other viable option involved the oil filter... it really didn't need to support *that* much weight since the block was partially supported by the front mounts anyway) the sump and rear main bearing cap was removed, and the rear main seal installed quite easily. Flywheel housing cover, starter, flyweeel, and clutch were then put in with no real hassles. I did, however, have considerably more trouble putting in the starter (the"from below and up" method rather than the "from above and down" method) than I had recalled in a previous experience. I began to wonder if I had done that job *before* puttting my new exhaust in (Nigel previously had the thru- the-wing exhaust system) and if I had led you astray with my "Ka-lunk" message of a month or so ago. The job was made much easier by cranking the front wheels all the way to the right (LHD) so that the steering rod between the box and the relay was out of the way. Sunday I only put in an hour or so but did manage to get the tranny back in, practically solo, no less. The sig oth was there to turn the hand crank while the 135lbs of rdushin moved the tranny into position. A well-placed sling about the main tranny case and the rear of the trans- fer case aided in this task. Monday morning was all I had to spare for daNige. Got the handbrake, *new* rear diff, and rear driveshaft installed. Big deal. Did a "dry run" on the new clutch (before the rear prop shaft was in) using light hand brake pressure to check it out. Nige fired right up, first crank, and the new clutch felt swell! No judder, jumping....smooth as glass. Planning on visiting my hubs (to clean out any remaining grit and repack the wheel bearings) before completing the job, and of course, still have to put in the seatbox and floors. Also putting in a *new* front prop shaft, since my old one was siezed *and* the cap stripped so's it cannot be easily disassembled. I did notice one thing during this job that's worth mentioning. About 1.5yrs ago I replaced Nigel's thru-the-wing exhaust with a IIa type, and Nige has seen two winters on eastern salted roads. In *many* places near the new exhaust I have surface rust developing.....the sump, the frame, one of the studs for the starter, etc. Surely, the heat and steam that surround a hot exhaust system in wet/winter/salty conditions are contributing to this enhanced corrosion. Thus, those of you who do still have those funky thru-the-wing exhausts (who have been fortunate enough to have not yet broken your manifolds) may wish to consider keeping them at all costs..... they do tend not to come nearly as close to the frame, especially in places where it easily rots (eg outriggers). cheers, rd/nige From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 2 16:55:00 1994 Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 17:45:24 -0400 (EDT) From: Jan Hilborn Subject: miniture Land Rovers... To: LRO Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Status: RO well, gee, folks, this has been a ahrd decision (and the decision of the judge is final of course so no more bribes (altho, John, dinner at The Four Seasons was a nice touch and much nicer than the used motor oil that Russ sent...) it was tempting to send them to Terri Ann for keeping us all in line and to Dixon for the chance to help spread discontent and jealousy in the world. It was also tempting to send them to Mr. Maloney in N.J. because i lived in N.J. once and no one has more of my sympathy but i really wanted him to prove he was more fun than Pee Wee Herman at the movies and that seemed hard to do given the time distance considerations. Mike offered to trade a Desert Shield 109 but that seemed a suspect offer to me since i thought they used 110's. Keith touched my heart with tales of his children's needs but i wasn't at all sure these (obviously) valuable rovers should be entrusted to children; I think Keith should buy his kids new mini rover toys so that in 20 years some other poor spring cleaner can put a note out on the infohighway about old toy trucks. By my count that still leaves the ever prompt and quite blue Jon H., the poetic and persuasive T.F., Spenny, and Ludovico who hit my soft spot with the challenge of bad italian mail (i love mailing odd things... but i digress). so, here are the rules Jon, T.F., Spenny, and Ludovico 1) you agree that the rover you receive via this great LRO mailing list give-a-way will never be sold for fun or profit 2) you agree when (or if) the mini rover you receive has outlived its welcome you will re-donate it into the mail stream (to be joined by Keith's children's contributions at a later date) 3) you agree to not fight on the net about who got what 4) and Jon, you agree to start breathing Now! okay, send your best mailing address(es) to jhilborn@moose.uvm.edu the land rovers will be in the mail as soon as i know where to send them... happy motoring From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 2 17:25:17 1994 Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 17:13:55 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: Rudolph renamed? To: dixon kenner Cc: lro@stratus.com In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Status: RO I am going up to Arnprior to teach at the emergency measures school next week. Is the Ottawa Valley Club doing anything between the Wednesday and the Saturday. I expect I could get away on the Friday night or Saturday if there was something on. Is Napean far from Ottawa? Dave Place umplace@UManitoba.CA From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 2 18:56:26 1994 To: lro@stratus.com Subject: Land Rover World, the July edition... From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 18:14:19 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada Status: RO For those tracking when LRO arrives, the July edition of Land ROver World arrived yesterday. Maybe LRW is running a month ahead of schedule, but it makes you really wonder about LRO... Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 3 07:22:29 1994 To: lro@stratus.com Subject: LR magazines and italian mail.... From: ludovico.magnocavallo@galactica.it (Ludovico Magnocavallo) Date: Fri, 3 Jun 94 01:14:00 +0100 Organization: GALACTICA PROFESSIONAL COMM. +39-2-29006150 Status: RO I still ave not received the May isuue of LRO, but this morning I found in my mailbox the JULY issue of Land Rover World..... Strange things happen with italian mail...:) BTW, in the July issue of LRW there's half a page (including a picture of a meeting) about the Ottawa Valley Land Rover Club. Good work, Dixon (I envy you canadians....).:) Ludo ludovico.magnocavallo@galactica.it From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 2 20:58:59 1994 From: Spenny@aol.com Sender: "Spenny" To: land-rover-owner@stratus.com Date: Thu, 02 Jun 94 21:48:54 EDT Subject: Re: So. Cal LR Dealers Status: RO Edward writes Does anyone know the name/number of a rover dealer in southern cal. The cadillac dealer on Colorado Bvld. in Pasadena sells rovers i can't tell you about price comparisons though From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 2 21:39:27 1994 To: lro@stratus.com Subject: Land Rover World, the July edition... From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 21:56:58 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada Status: RO dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) writes: > For those tracking when LRO arrives, the July edition of Land ROver > World arrived yesterday. Maybe LRW is running a month ahead of > schedule, but it makes you really wonder about LRO... No sooner do I write this, then the June issue of LRO comes through the door. I wonder what went wrong with their distribution system -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 2 21:54:40 1994 Date: 02 Jun 94 22:43:09 EDT From: "Roger L. Sinasohn" <72262.1540@CompuServe.COM> To: Land Rover Owner List Subject: Howdy! Status: RO Still trying to figure all this out, so forgive me if this doesn't end up where it should. I'm hoping this will go to everyone on the list, but who knows? (The Shadow knows.) Well, I'm a relatively new Land Rover owner, but certainly no less fanatical or obsessed than anyone else. I got my first Land Rover about 4 years ago, and currently own a 1959 109" two-door with a full top (although I have a pick-up top and 3/4 canvas as well.) and a 1972 88", also with a full top. I was thinking of putting the pick-up top on the 88", but I was voted down by my brother and girlfriend (who are battling it out over who gets to commandeer the 88"). I also collect miniatures (matchbox, dinky, britains, etc.). I live in San Francisco, California, so Scotty fixes stuff after I muck it up. Made it to the national rally two years ago, but I don't think I'll make it this year. (Unless they reschedule it a week earlier.) What else about me? I guess that's about it. Oh, I have a bed (I call it the "Blevins Bed", since I stole the design from Brad Blevins, editor of the Aluminum Workhorse) and cabinets for the 109" that I built myself (which means they're not very well made, but hey, I tried.). My next project is a desk/filing cabinet sort of thing so I can use it as a mobile office. That and an overhead compartment for a stereo, CB, phone, GPS, etc. (After I win the lottery.) Anyway, that's about it for me. Glad I found out about this! Uncle (who's going to have to get an Internet address because the CompuServe fees are gonna kill me!) Roger From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 2 23:37:18 1994 Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 00:23:11 -0400 (EDT) From: "Steven Swiger (LIS)" Subject: Re: Land Rover World, the July edition... To: dixon kenner Cc: lro@stratus.com In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Status: RO On Thu, 2 Jun 1994, dixon kenner wrote: > dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) writes: > > > For those tracking when LRO arrives, the July edition of Land ROver > > World arrived yesterday. Maybe LRW is running a month ahead of > > schedule, but it makes you really wonder about LRO... > As a Rover admirer and hopefully soon to be owner, I was wondering if anyone could give me more info on this publication, possibly even an order form... Cheers, Steve Swiger From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 3 01:37:51 1994 From: tomills@diana.cair.du.edu (T.F. Mills) Subject: Re: Land Rover World, the July edition... To: swiger@luna.cas.usf.edu (Steven Swiger) Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 00:30:11 -0600 (MDT) Cc: lro@stratus.com In-Reply-To: from "Steven Swiger" at Jun 3, 94 00:23:11 am Content-Type: text Content-Length: 695 Status: RO Steve Swiger asks: < As a Rover admirer and hopefully soon to be owner, I was wondering if < anyone could give me more info on this publication Try this: LRW Subscription Dept Hainault Road Little Heath Romford Essex RM6 5NP They accept VISA (which saves on ridiculous bank conversion charges), and the US rate is about $70. I say "try" because I still haven't seen a single issue, and I have written twice. Anybody who gets July before June has no grounds for complaint: at least it's coming. As for LRO... they are unmentionable. T. F. Mills tomills@diana.cair.du.edu University of Denver Library 2150 E. Evans Ave. Denver CO 80208 USA From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 3 02:46:30 1994 From: UncleBrad@aol.com Sender: "UncleBrad" To: lro@stratus.com Date: Fri, 03 Jun 94 03:37:04 EDT Subject: Land Rover World Status: RO Saw the notes about Land Rover World & noticed that folks are interested in it but aren't having a lot of success getting in touch. I was talking to Tom LaManna in Florida & he gave me a phone number for the outfit. He thinks that this is a company which publishes several magazines & suggested that I call them earlier in their day for some reason. The number he gave me is 081-597-7335. Good luck! Brad Blevins From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 3 03:27:42 1994 From: tomills@diana.cair.du.edu (T.F. Mills) Subject: Re: gas in oil? To: jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu (Jon Humphrey) Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 02:19:57 -0600 (MDT) Cc: lro@stratus.com In-Reply-To: from "Jon Humphrey" at Jun 2, 94 04:57:03 pm Content-Type: text Content-Length: 422 Status: RO Jon writes: < Here is a serious question that has arisen in my brain.(since my last < oil change) < "Is it possible for me to be getting gas in my oil?" Not according to Gray's Anatomy. But I suppose anything is possible if you're in the habit of changing brain fluid. T. F. Mills tomills@diana.cair.du.edu University of Denver Library 2150 E. Evans Ave. Denver CO 80208 USA From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 3 04:02:25 1994 From: tomills@diana.cair.du.edu (T.F. Mills) Subject: Re: miniature Land Rovers in the male/mail To: jhilborn@moose.uvm.edu (Jan Hilborn) Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 02:55:34 -0600 (MDT) Cc: lro@stratus.com In-Reply-To: from "Jan Hilborn" at Jun 2, 94 05:45:24 pm Content-Type: text Content-Length: 1065 Status: RO Oh, what indescribable joy To finally get my Norwegian toy. Thanks to gracious Jan, And her masterful plan, I can now gaze on the real McCoy. How do I know I will receive the royal blue one? Because -- The ole Rover that belongs to Mills May suffer all sorts of ills, But unlike Willie, Who goes willy nilly, My Norwegian rubber makes no great spills. And why does Jon the Roving Pouet-Pouet deserve a new Tootsie? Because -- Mr. Humphrey hath a Lucas starter That soundeth more like a farter. And his last lass Lost her li'l ass In his old Rover where it jarred 'er. As for the leftovers-- A challenging Italian male Will always tip the scale. Nota bene, Mr. Spenny! For he knows a female how to regale. What say? I've already broken the rules? I forfeit everything? Oh, well, time to change to dirty old brain fluid, I suppose. T. F. Mills tomills@diana.cair.du.edu University of Denver Library 2150 E. Evans Ave. Denver CO 80208 USA ( a suitable address for Rover deliveries) From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 3 04:39:32 1994 From: tomills@diana.cair.du.edu (T.F. Mills) Subject: Land Rover current cites To: lro@stratus.com Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 03:31:30 -0600 (MDT) Content-Type: text Content-Length: 761 Status: RO Here's the latest: "Kings of the road" TIME June 6, 1994 p. 57 The article puts the American 4x4 craze in sociological perspective, mentions Rover briefly, and reveals these tidbits: *production of Mercedes G-Wagen will begin in Vance, Alabama in 1997. They will sell for $60,000 (which is half the current import price, if I recall). *"Rover expects to introduce a more luxurious version of the [RR] County in the U.S. early next year." *Chrysler plans to reveal a luxury 4WD in 1998 to compete with the Mercedes and Rovers ($40,000). Articles has photos of the new Chrysler and G-Wagen -- no Rovers. T. F. Mills tomills@diana.cair.du.edu University of Denver Library 2150 E. Evans Ave. Denver CO 80208 USA From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 3 06:48:33 1994 Date: Fri, 3 Jun 94 04:01:02 PDT From: Vance Chin To: lro@stratus.com Subject: Found 1956 Series I 88 for sale Status: RO I found the above land rover in a local car classified paper. It has the caption "1956 Land Rover. Pontiac power, completeley redone. lic 2NDA040 MAKE OFFER". I gave them a call and found out the asking price ws $8,0000 US. After looking at the picture for awhile I thought that this land rover had been in the Aluminum Workhorse. After going through all my issues for the millionth time I found it in the Spring 1991 issue. It was owned and rebuilt by John Johnson. This one was done up to the hilt. I think it was done up mainly as a runabout/ commute car. Has Iron Duke engine, 3.54 diffs, II gearbox, aux gas tank, insulation up the wazoo, and hardtop with vents. It might even have cruise control ( the artical says it likes to run around 70 mph). If you are interested give them a call - Specialty Sales 510-484-22674. Vance Chin Series III 88 thats looking for floor mats+ From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 3 08:27:22 1994 From: Mike Rooth Subject: LR mags.... To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Fri, 3 Jun 94 14:17:36 BST Status: RO It's not necessarily Italian mail,Ludo,I got my LRO a fortnight late. Even then,I'm not sure it was worth waiting for..... LRW,by contrast,is turning into a seriously good magazine,at least this month's is.And we are all in it!Well done,that man Kenner! You'll *never* get published in LRO now though:-) They are getting networked......hmmm....are they *really* ready for exposure to us wacky lot? Cheers Mike Rooth From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 3 09:28:56 1994 From: Mike Rooth Subject: Rover's on Fillum To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Date: Fri, 3 Jun 94 15:19:02 BST Status: RO I watched a bit of 633 Squadron last night(again),I *love* the Mosquito.Got fed up after about fifteen minutes because be now I can suss out the models from the lone real Mossy.However, if you look not *all* that carefully you can spot at least one SWB S1,and a 107" pickup.Pre-pre production? Whilst on the subject,I got James Taylor's "Land Rover Story" video out of the local public library last week.Well worth the quid it cost to borrow(well,two quid actually,its overdue).I thought it was well done,but not worth the fifteen quid purchase price.Under a tenner,yes,but not fifteen.Could have done with less Range Rover and Discovery,and more S11,11A&111,especially since there is one in preparation on the Range Rover.Good as a group buy though IMO,say for club viewing. Cheers Mike Rooth From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 3 07:26:34 1994 From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Date: 4 Jun 94 00:06:41 GMT To: land-rover-owner@stratus.com Message-Service: mail Phone: 201-564-2073 Subject: LRW & D-Rings Content-Type: Text Status: RO Steve wrote: >> As a Rover admirer and hopefully soon to be owner, I was wondering if anyone could give me more info on this publication, possibly even an order form... Cheers, Steve Swiger >> Steve, I just called Land Rover World this morning. After being transferred once I got a very nice woman on the line who said it would be L59. Gulp!!! I replied that I was sorry but I had the subscription for US air listed at L47.20. She asked me to hold for a moment then apologized and said that L47.20 was correct. I gave her my address & credit card # and she said the subscription would begin immediately with the current issue (#5 or 6 I believe). If you have never called the UK before dial 011 44 81 597 7335. Before 7:00am the rates are $.98 first minute and $.60 each additional minute (AT&T). If you call AT&T ahead of time and ask for Reach Out Country for the UK, you'll get 10% off that rate with no initial or monthly charge. The number for Reach Out country is 1-800-523-9675. This is my first experience with LRW. LRO is very good but seems to be moving away from Series II, IIA, III articles toward newer stuff. Also, from what I understand, in the UK an issue is available in the second week of the month prior to the issue date. Unfortunately, we receive ours in the US 6-8 weeks later. And that's paying air shipping. Surface mail is usually quicker than that. Their shipping, in a word, sucks. Sorry, I don't have the rates handy for LRO. I ordered a two year subscription back when the pound was $1.95 and I thought it was going to go higher. Urk! When you get the number (I'm sure someone will post it) you dial 011 (international code) 44 (country code, UK) drop the first zero in the number then dail the next nine digits. Good Luck! ************************************************************************ Ray Wrote: >> OK, lets talk about d-rings for awhile. I am getting a shipment -- yes, it *has* left england -- of some used parts from steve parker land rover. Included in the shipment are 6 d-rings. (I like spare parts). I figured one would just put a longer bolt thru the two holes in the front horn that the bumper attaches to. Is this the story. Do I need to drill and put holes in the front bumper, too? Do d-rings get in the way of front bumper extensions, cause I am getting 4 of those, too. >> Ray, The d-ring kit came with frame bolts that were about 1/2" longer than standard and four additional bolts for the 2 front holes in each of the d-rings. You need to line up the d-ring with the bumper holes already in place and drill the 2 front holes using the d-ring as a template. Be sure to use plenty of lubricant on your drill bit as you are drilling through a fair amount of galvanizing and a weld also. Start with a smaller bit as a guide for the final bit. I don't believe d-ring should not interfere with your overriders. Have fun, Bill Maloney maloney@wings!attmail.com From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 3 08:29:00 1994 From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Date: 4 Jun 94 01:13:59 GMT To: land-rover-owner@stratus.com Message-Service: mail Phone: 201-564-2073 Subject: D-Rings Content-Type: Text Status: RO Ray, In my last message I wrote: >> I don't believe d-ring should not interfere with your overriders. >> What I meant was: I don't believe the d-ring will interfere with your overriders. Sometimes I don't have no idea of what I means. Bill Maloney maloney@wings!attmail.com From ccray Fri Jun 3 10:30:41 1994 Subject: Little Lulu's birthday bash... To: lro@transfer.stratus.com (Land-Rover-Owners FORUM) Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 10:30:41 -0500 (CDT) MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Length: 2982 Status: RO Rushed home last night at 5:00 after work. Had received the new(old) winch the prior day and Little Lulu was anxious. Koenig Iron Works Houston, Texas Model 30 (crankshaft driven) Part no. LR55-302 Took off the front bumper and my son and I lifted this beauty (or is it beast) into position. It also mounts via the two bolts on the front horns, so eventually, I will have d-rings, winch, bumper all going thru those holes. The bumper in place was a home-made one attached several years ago by a prior owner, but the winch was patterned for a stock bumper. There is an angle iron in the front that lips over the bumper and 3 holes are to be drilled for bolts. So, I put back on the only stock bumper that I have -- the problem is it has been dented and straightened so many times it has multiple waves going thru it. I must order another, but for now this one will do. The winch looks absolutely marvelous in place. It has a lever that engages the engine drive, a gear lever that allows forward/reverse/neutral and a lever that disengages the spool and lets you freewheel out the line. I had to take off the front dog on the crankshaft damper that the crank fits into. No way from below. Took the winch back off so we could fit a socket extension thru the front hole in the frame. Wouldn't budge. Heat, still no movement. I remember this discussion on LRO some times past -- how did that front crank widget finally get removed that time. So, I left it last night in place, but without the driveshaft attached to the crankshaft. I had the chance to purchase a koenig pto winch in the past, but that setup does not allow you to have the overdrive unit. I think it would allow the winch to have 4 forward gears plus reverse, though. I thought about a modern electric winch, but I am still running the old lucas generator. And serious winching people think you need a second battery. And you have to run the big thick electrical cable thru places that don't have holes. And new heavy duty electric winches are expensive. So, I located this used crankshaft driven oldie-but-goodie. It looks rugged in place, has near-new cable, and puts 150 pounds of mass between me and car in front of me. So, my request to the LRO netters. Does anyone out there have the operating instructions and/or parts diagram for this unit. I would like to get you to xerox it and send it to me for my records. I would reimburse you. I understand I probably can't get parts, but a diagram would be handy if I ever have to go inside for repairs. Am anxious to get the drive installed and go out and do some serious wenching. ------------------------------------------------------------------- Ray Harder Columbia, Missouri 314-882-2000 - 61 SIIa 88 (LULU) - 66 SIIa 88 (rebuild project) - 69 SIIa 88 (parts) - 87 RR (wife's) - 80 MGB - xx ------------------------------------------------------------------- From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 3 10:41:09 1994 From: ccray@lulu.cc.missouri.edu Subject: Little Lulu's birthday bash... To: lro@transfer.stratus.com (Land-Rover-Owners FORUM) Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 10:30:41 -0500 (CDT) Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Length: 2981 Status: RO Rushed home last night at 5:00 after work. Had received the new(old) winch the prior day and Little Lulu was anxious. Koenig Iron Works Houston, Texas Model 30 (crankshaft driven) Part no. LR55-302 Took off the front bumper and my son and I lifted this beauty (or is it beast) into position. It also mounts via the two bolts on the front horns, so eventually, I will have d-rings, winch, bumper all going thru those holes. The bumper in place was a home-made one attached several years ago by a prior owner, but the winch was patterned for a stock bumper. There is an angle iron in the front that lips over the bumper and 3 holes are to be drilled for bolts. So, I put back on the only stock bumper that I have -- the problem is it has been dented and straightened so many times it has multiple waves going thru it. I must order another, but for now this one will do. The winch looks absolutely marvelous in place. It has a lever that engages the engine drive, a gear lever that allows forward/reverse/neutral and a lever that disengages the spool and lets you freewheel out the line. I had to take off the front dog on the crankshaft damper that the crank fits into. No way from below. Took the winch back off so we could fit a socket extension thru the front hole in the frame. Wouldn't budge. Heat, still no movement. I remember this discussion on LRO some times past -- how did that front crank widget finally get removed that time. So, I left it last night in place, but without the driveshaft attached to the crankshaft. I had the chance to purchase a koenig pto winch in the past, but that setup does not allow you to have the overdrive unit. I think it would allow the winch to have 4 forward gears plus reverse, though. I thought about a modern electric winch, but I am still running the old lucas generator. And serious winching people think you need a second battery. And you have to run the big thick electrical cable thru places that don't have holes. And new heavy duty electric winches are expensive. So, I located this used crankshaft driven oldie-but-goodie. It looks rugged in place, has near-new cable, and puts 150 pounds of mass between me and car in front of me. So, my request to the LRO netters. Does anyone out there have the operating instructions and/or parts diagram for this unit. I would like to get you to xerox it and send it to me for my records. I would reimburse you. I understand I probably can't get parts, but a diagram would be handy if I ever have to go inside for repairs. Am anxious to get the drive installed and go out and do some serious wenching. ------------------------------------------------------------------- Ray Harder Columbia, Missouri 314-882-2000 - 61 SIIa 88 (LULU) - 66 SIIa 88 (rebuild project) - 69 SIIa 88 (parts) - 87 RR (wife's) - 80 MGB - xx ------------------------------------------------------------------- From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Thu Jun 2 09:57:55 1994 To: lro@stratus.com Subject: Birmabright welding From: mb@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (Michele Bertrand) Reply-To: mb@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca Date: Thu, 2 Jun 1994 08:48:49 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada Status: RO Hi! I have a few questions regarding Birmabright welding. 1) Is it possible to MIG-weld Land Rover components? 2) If so, what is the proper feed-wire, is it #4043, #5356, or #1100, and also what is the proper size? (.24, .30, .35, .45 in) 3) Do we also use, just like aluminium, Argon as the isolating inert gas? 4) Do you have any comments/experiments on this kind of welding, is it worth it? 5) OOPS! I just realized that I forgot one word in my first question: "Body" goes between Land Rover and components. Thanks for answering those very technical questions. Don't forget, Happy Rovering, and bring a fire extinguisher! Michel Bertrand and Burnt-plastic smelling Rudolph, Ottawa, Ontario -- Michele Bertrand, mb@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 3 11:33:34 1994 From: ccray@lulu.cc.missouri.edu Subject: Re: Birmabright welding To: mb@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 11:20:42 -0500 (CDT) Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com (Land-Rover-Owners FORUM) In-Reply-To: <2ZJaNc3w165w@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca> from "Michele Bertrand" at Jun 2, 94 08:48:49 am Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Length: 2946 Status: RO Michele Bertrand was bold enough to point out... > >Hi! I have a few questions regarding Birmabright welding. > >1) Is it possible to MIG-weld Land Rover components? I have worked at welding the aluminum panels with mixed results. And I have reported/bored the LRO list with some of this in the past, but hey, we have some new subscribers. -- my mig welder is medium ($$$) grade -- it won't push aluminum wire smaller than .45 so that is what I use. And I have infinite control on speed, but 4 switches to choose from on heat. It seems to me that I can't get enough speed for smooth welds as I tend to have it turned up to max speed and still want more. So my aluminum welds are embarassing to look at, but I think quite strong. I take an aluminum grinding wheel (normal ones fill up) and grind them smooth and they look ok. TIP: If you put a piece of steel flat behind a butt weld, it makes the backside quite smooth -- it doesn't stick. And you grind down the front side. I even took an adult education class to get to a TIG welder, but that really didn't work for me for various reasons. They (the school) had a spool-gun attachment that seemed to work the best, but $$$ are involved here. > >2) If so, what is the proper feed-wire, is it #4043, #5356, or #1100, and >also what is the proper size? (.24, .30, .35, .45 in) > I think a smaller wire at higher speed would be better than what I reported above, but I can't try it... >3) Do we also use, just like aluminium, Argon as the isolating inert gas? Yes, argon. > >4) Do you have any comments/experiments on this kind of welding, is it >worth it? > If you have the equipment or want to spend your time and money moving into that arena of the hobby, then you can weld up tears and fill them quite nicely with aluminum body filler. And think of the steel projects you can attack. I did have a transmission bellhousing welded at a welding shop -- $65 mistake. So it is my humble opinion that you probably can't afford commercial repairs -- that is -- used parts would be cheaper. >5) OOPS! I just realized that I forgot one word in my first question: >"Body" goes between Land Rover and components. > FYI, my next excursion into aluminum welding will be with gas. I can get for $79 a jeweler's tip for my torch set. With that I think I can get close to duplicating the heat and concentration of the TIG welding setup. I will get some aluminum rods and try that technique. Butt welds are hard -- holes burn thru too easy, so I might just swallow my pride and put some sort of backing plate on the side you aren't supposed to see... >Thanks for answering those very technical questions. Don't forget, Happy >Rovering, and bring a fire extinguisher! > >Michel Bertrand and Burnt-plastic smelling Rudolph, Ottawa, Ontario > > >-- >Michele Bertrand, mb@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca >FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada > From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 3 13:54:10 1994 Date: Fri, 03 Jun 1994 14:37:18 EDT From: CXKS46A@prodigy.com (MR ALEXANDER P GRICE) To: land-rover-owner@stratus.com Subject: Land Rover World, et als. Status: RO Dixon writes: > No sooner do I write this, then the June issue of LRO comes through the >door.... June! Crimony, we haven't even gotten *MAY* yet! *----"Jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary"-----* | | | Sandy Grice, Rover Owners' Association of Virginia | | E-Mail: CXKS46A@prodigy.com FAX: 804-622-7056 | | Voice: 804-622-7054 (Days) 804-423-4898 (Evenings) | | 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA, 23508-1730 USA | *------------------------------------------------------* From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 3 14:06:42 1994 From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Re: Little Lulu's birthday bash... To: ccray@lulu.cc.missouri.edu Date: Fri, 3 Jun 94 15:00:00 EDT Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com In-Reply-To: <9406031530.AA15352@lulu.cc.missouri.edu>; from "ccray@lulu.cc.missouri.edu" at Jun 3, 94 10:30 am Mailer: Elm [revision: 66.36.1.1] Status: RO > I had to take off the front dog on the crankshaft damper > that the crank fits into. No way from below. Took the > winch back off so we could fit a socket extension thru > the front hole in the frame. Wouldn't budge. Heat, still > no movement. I remember this discussion on LRO some times > past -- how did that front crank widget finally get > removed that time. So, I left it last night in place, but > without the driveshaft attached to the crankshaft. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------- > Ray Harder Columbia, Missouri 314-882-2000 > > - 61 SIIa 88 (LULU) - 66 SIIa 88 (rebuild project) > - 69 SIIa 88 (parts) - 87 RR (wife's) > - 80 MGB - xx > ------------------------------------------------------------------- Fit a suitable wrench (I have a mongo adjustable) onto the nut and brace it up against the frame. Hit the starter. Bingo. Make sure you've got the wrench in the right spot.....le's see, engine spins clockwise (when viewed from the front, which is against set principles, so counterclockwise when viewed from the passenger compartment)-so you need to put it either on top of the LH rail (driver's side for the LHD model) or on the bottom of the RH (passenger) rail, right?? Don't take *my* word for it....make sure it's correct first so's you don't destroy your fanblade, radiator, etc. Alternatively, when I asked this question a few months ago there were suggestions that I park on a hill facing up, put it in reverse, affix the wrench, roll backwards and pop the clutch. I was stranded on the flats of a field at the time, so I took a chance on the starter instead. One very brief tap on the knob was all it took. I had my fingers crossed at the time, and this may have helped. rd/nigel From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 3 15:12:55 1994 Date: Fri, 3 Jun 1994 16:01:52 -0400 (EDT) From: Jon Humphrey To: Jan Hilborn Subject: Re: miniture Land Rovers... Cc: lro@stratus.com In-Reply-To: Status: RO Dear Jan Wooooooooooooooooooshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh shhhh shhhhhhhhh Ah, sweet air molecules a la perfection hath done wonders for my cobalt complection, We didn't know what you would decide But by your rules we'll now all abide What remains is just sweet gummy reflection. The untold anguish and anticipation reeked havoc with my respiration now T F Mills, the "Norse Druid" references my murky brain fluid in pouetics of pure despiration. Ohhh Sweet mystery of life/ I've found you... in the thread of Rovers made out of goo, our silliness is now over about a cherished toy Rover Dearest Jan I must bid you adieu. ps --Lord Pickwick is suffering from a rare bird brain amnesia. He can only fly as though he is doing the backstroke. The Vet said he would be fine somewhere in the not too distant future, but right now he's not quite up to flapping to Vermont. So US Mail service will have to fill the gap. So with good will to all Bye for now Jon Humphrey Fraternity Supervisor and seeker of Truth Carnegie Mellon University Housing Office Pittsburgh, Pa. 15213 # # # # # # # # # # # # # >>> ================\ "YOU MUsT REMEMBER THIS" |----------||@ \\ ___ *^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^*^* |____|_____|||_/_\\_|___|_ It ain't nezezzarily so! <| ___\ || | ____ | --->>Elysium ++++++++++ <| / |___||_____|/ | | = = = = = = = = = = = = = >> ||/ O |__________/ O |_|| jh5r+@andrew.cmu.edu \___/ LAND ROVER \___/ ,.________________. /~~~~~~//~~~~~~{~~~~} / // } } "67-109" []]]]]]]]]]]------/[ } PICKUP []]]]]]]]]]]=======|----|============| ____=========_____------| | | | |/|@) (@| | | | | | ** |/| || | * * | ___ | __ | | |/||||||| |{ \__________/ \ | |____|/|_____|_____|[ }\_________} ]\_|| |___________________|[ } |[ ] \ / \ \ / \\ } ~~~~ ~ ~~~ ~~~ From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Fri Jun 3 12:27:34 1994 From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Date: 4 Jun 94 04:42:43 GMT To: land-rover-owner@stratus.com Message-Service: mail Phone: 201-564-2073 Subject: LuLu's Dog Removal Content-Type: Text Status: RO Ray wrote: >> I had to take off the front dog on the crankshaft damper that the crank fits into. No way from below. Took the winch back off so we could fit a socket extension thru the front hole in the frame. Wouldn't budge. Heat, still no movement. I remember this discussion on LRO some times past -- how did that front crank widget finally get removed that time. So, I left it last night in place, but without the driveshaft attached to the crankshaft. >> Ray, Even with a long extension bar I couldn't budge the starter dog on my 88. So I positioned my wrench (a VERY large crescent wrench) so that as the engine turned the handle would contact the frame. Then I engaged the starter (and to my suprise it started) and BANG!!!! I switched off the key and found that the dog was loose. The method is somewhat crude but it may work. Good luck! Bill From LandRover@aol.com Sat Jun 4 08:06:55 1994 From: LandRover@aol.com Sender: "LandRover" To: ccray@lulu.cc.missouri.edu Date: Sat, 04 Jun 94 09:07:37 EDT Subject: Re: Little Lulu's birthday ba... Status: RO Ray... Nice winch.. I used to have one, but never used it. Steve Denis now has it and I think he does have parts diagrams. He has been in England since 5/26 (went over for the ARC Nationals) and should be back around 6/6 I think so he hasn't seen any 'net mail for a while. As fas as two batteries are concerned.. I've put in a GM alternator in my SerIII and don't have any problems with my winch. (Ramsey 8000lb single line) The battery cables route easily under the right-hand side of the radiator. But, you already have a monster to play with so good luck. That Koenig is a monster. We managed to get Steve's 109 in a tight spot in a ravine one time and turned the truck just about 180 degrees with the winch to get it out. Adios.... Mike Loiodice landrover@aol.com From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sat Jun 4 11:29:37 1994 To: lro@stratus.com Subject: LR mags.... From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca Date: Sat, 4 Jun 1994 10:51:46 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada Status: RO Mike Rooth writes: > It's not necessarily Italian mail,Ludo,I got my LRO a fortnight late. > Even then,I'm not sure it was worth waiting for..... The discussion up here among some of us that have seen LRW, as well as LRO, follows Bill's lines almost exactly. LRO is moving quickly into the 90, Disco, Range Rover area and leaving the rest of us with Series I, II, IIA, and III stuff behind. LRW on the other hand is talking about our vehicles, and despite some perceived formatting problems, is showing much promise. Considering that Link House also produces magazines such as Mini World, LRW will get better... > LRW,by contrast,is turning into a seriously good magazine,at least > this month's is.And we are all in it!Well done,that man Kenner! > You'll *never* get published in LRO now though:-) LRO got the same whack of stuff... We will see what they publish in the future, if anything. BTW, the photo is of the Downeast event, not OVLR, though they will get photos of the Birthday Party fun... :-) > They are getting networked......hmmm....are they *really* ready for > exposure to us wacky lot? If not, it will be even more fun! Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada From jrussell@netcom.com Sat Jun 4 13:18:32 1994 Date: Sat, 4 Jun 1994 11:19:24 -0700 (PDT) From: James B Russell Sender: James B Russell Reply-To: James B Russell Subject: Starter Dog Removal To: ccray@lulu.cc.missouri.edu Cc: Land-Rover-Owners FORUM In-Reply-To: <9406031530.AA15352@lulu.cc.missouri.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=US-ASCII Status: RO While not nearly as dramatic as using the starter, I have found that if I put a mega Crescent wrench or good old fashioned monkey wrench in place and then use a hydraulic jack under the vehicle to turn the wrench against the weight of the vehicle, the dog will come undone quite nicely. If you have the right size socket, that would probably work even better but I have never managed to find that socket when I needed it. I once considered using the starter but then thought about all the damage it might cause if things went wrong. James B. Russell ==== jrussell@netcom.com (Seattle -- San Francisco) From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sat Jun 4 15:37:19 1994 From: RAMAGEM@carleton.edu Date: Sat, 04 Jun 1994 15:27:32 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Farewell To: lro@stratus.com X-Envelope-To: lro@stratus.com X-Vms-To: LANDROVER Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7BIT Status: RO I've really enjoyed the LRO list, but I'm off to Turkey for three months. And I don't want to annoy my or anyone elses postmaster with bounced messages, so I'm signing off for a bit. But while in Turkey I'll be using a 1957 107 (pink) and a 1964 109, so perhaps I'll share some stories when I get back, as I'm sure there will be some. Cheers, Micahel ramage oops I spell that Michael Ramage 1971 Series IIa Ramagem@carleton.edu From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun Jun 5 03:57:36 1994 To: lro@stratus.com Subject: Little Lulu's birthday bash... From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca Date: Sat, 4 Jun 1994 22:51:46 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada Status: RO ccray@lulu.cc.missouri.edu writes: > Rushed home last night at 5:00 after work. Had received > the new(old) winch the prior day and Little Lulu was > anxious. Welcome to the club... :-) These are great winches. > So, my request to the LRO netters. Does anyone out there > have the operating instructions and/or parts diagram > for this unit. One OVLR member has the parts manual (though none are available anymore), though I know of no one with the operating instructions. When I manage to get the copy from him, I'll send you a copy. Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Jun 6 04:02:32 1994 To: lro@stratus.com Subject: LR spring cleaning? From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca Date: Sun, 5 Jun 1994 00:01:31 -0400 Organization: FourFold Symmetry - Nepean, Ontario, Canada Status: RO tomills@diana.cair.du.edu (T.F. Mills) writes: > Is it acceptable to have a local spring specialist do the work, > including building new sets when the old ones can't be re-arched. One > such place quoted $90 per pair for re-arching, and $180 per pair if > they need rebuilding. That includes a $200 savings if I take them off > and put them back on myself. These prices are far more attractive > than RN prices for new springs, but am I being pound foolish? I don't know how the Pound is doing against the US dollar these days, but new springs from the UK go for about $60 Canadian, or there abouts. The US dollar is worth $1.30+ Canadian. Shipping is the killer, but it is an option for new springs. > Are there any any other parts besides the road springs that I can > almost certainly count on needing to replace -- like U bolts? U-bolts are probably needed, possibly the main bolts through the shackles. They can be a real challenge to get off and at the cost of a new set, it is probably worth it. Rgds, Dixon -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun Jun 5 02:47:26 1994 From: tomills@diana.cair.du.edu (T.F. Mills) Subject: LR bikini top? To: lro@stratus.com Date: Sun, 5 Jun 1994 01:40:16 -0600 (MDT) Content-Type: text Content-Length: 1118 Status: RO I'm thinking of customising a bikini top for my IIA 109 pickup, and I thought I'd better plumb the depths of collective wisdom first. My son talked me into taking off the hard top today. We made it through last summer topless, but this time I'd like to throw together something cheap just in case we hit some late or early snow storms. I have a hoop and a good piece of canvas. Is it possible to use a standard genuine LR windscreen bracket and fasten a plain piece of canvas to it so that it is easily removable? I don't have the bracket, but I'll go so far as to order a $53 one from RN. (Any other genuine hoop set parts and canvas is pretty much out the of the financial question, since the poor vehicle is crying for some more basic maintenance before these luxuries.) If the bracket doesn't sound like a good idea, I may use the Michael the Turk Ramage method (going to Kurdistan by any chance?) with a piece of oak, gromets and snaps. Thanks for your ideas! T. F. Mills tomills@diana.cair.du.edu University of Denver Library 2150 E. Evans Ave. Denver CO 80208 USA From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun Jun 5 03:07:11 1994 From: tomills@diana.cair.du.edu (T.F. Mills) Subject: LR spring cleaning? To: lro@stratus.com Date: Sun, 5 Jun 1994 02:01:13 -0600 (MDT) Content-Type: text Content-Length: 955 Status: RO Another question from the other pouet-pouet Rover: The old lady is overdue for spring cleaning -- like all four of them. Is it acceptable to have a local spring specialist do the work, including building new sets when the old ones can't be re-arched. One such place quoted $90 per pair for re-arching, and $180 per pair if they need rebuilding. That includes a $200 savings if I take them off and put them back on myself. These prices are far more attractive than RN prices for new springs, but am I being pound foolish? Are there any any other parts besides the road springs that I can almost certainly count on needing to replace -- like U bolts? Should I also be replacing the shocks at the same time? Any recommended cheap American brands? (Somebody suggested Sears for $10 each) Thanks again! T. F. Mills tomills@diana.cair.du.edu University of Denver Library 2150 E. Evans Ave. Denver CO 80208 USA From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun Jun 5 14:29:52 1994 Date: Sun, 5 Jun 1994 13:13:02 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: LR bikini top? To: "T.F. Mills" Cc: lro@stratus.com In-Reply-To: <9406050740.AA03473@diana.cair.du.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Status: RO I have the real top but I used to have the type of top you want. I found that the cheap method was to go to a trailer store and buy a piece of the aluminum extrusion used to put a canvas on the side of a trailer. It is easily drilled to match the holes used for the hard top. You make your canvas top with a piece of rope in it at the leading edge and it slides into the aluminum extrusion, making a waterproof and perhaps more inportant, a wind proof edge for your top. Another choice is the turn smaps used for boat hardwar. In my area the fellows use all kinds of boat top hardware because it is stainless or plastic and is cheap. The hoops in my original top were conduit. I found that because I didn't have the large diameter in my junk collection, I used the 1/2 inch and put 3/4 inch unions arond the smaller pipe, connected it with pop rivits and it filled the holes on the body where the hoops go in quite nicely. The only parts you really need from the factory top are the parts around the door which attach to the first hoop. They would be difficult to fabricate in the shop, but if you rubn with the top of the doors off you don't need them anyway. For my present top, I found that the British Military left a few 109s in Alburta which whith a little modification of the length of the canvas, fit just as well as the 88 real top. Presently I use the top with the sides rolled up to a piece of full length conduit, and it makes a great sun screen while at the same time providing a convertalble. Cheers Dave VE4PN From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun Jun 5 14:36:26 1994 Date: Sun, 5 Jun 1994 13:21:05 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: LR spring cleaning? To: "T.F. Mills" Cc: lro@stratus.com In-Reply-To: <9406050801.AA11418@diana.cair.du.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Status: RO I have found that the rubber grommets (2) on each end of the shocks will get pounded out long before the shocks and the springs. The little holders for the spring leaves will likely be not reusable so the spring man will make new ones if he is going to separate the spring leaves. You can clean the units yourself, but I have found that short of burning out the rubber inserts at each spring eye, you will never get them out on your own. You will end up cutting or burning them off so the labour he quoted is not all that much if you consider the problems you are likely to have. A cheap fix is to get a can of spray oil or if you dont have one, get a spray furniture bottle or the like and spray oil between the leaves. It is the inablility of the leaves to slike past each other which gives the real harshness to old springs and adds to the noise. One of the fellows here found that to order springs from Merseyside Land Rover in the UK including shipping was cheaper than a rebuild in our area. It is better to get a few fellows together to order parts from them because they have a flat rate on export costs so a full Land Rover or a gasket will cost the same. We love them however and the service is about three days to Manitoba. You can phone them if you want. If you want the number give me a note and I will pull out one of the old bills. One fellow has ordered over $10,000 in parts and is very pleased. Dave VE4PN From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun Jun 5 14:45:11 1994 Date: Sun, 5 Jun 1994 13:29:23 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: LR spring cleaning? To: "T.F. Mills" Cc: lro@stratus.com In-Reply-To: <9406050801.AA11418@diana.cair.du.edu> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Status: RO Forgot to mention the other parts you will likely need. It is a good idea to replace the "U" bolts. Because the threads face down, they take a real beating, and you will likely have to cut them off. Even if they are still good, the "U" bolts don't always go on with equal pull on each side and they can be distorted. It would be a shame to have a "U" bolt fail and release the axle just for saving a few bucks. No matter what, the night before you do all this neat stuff spray liberaly with WD40 or similar because I have found that running hardware and exhausts to be the worst thing on these bests to get off. The galvanic action between the aluminum body and the body bolts rate a good and reliable second place. By the way we are using rochester carbs with the jets filled with solder and then redrilled here. It is cheap and runs great. That is for the fellow who said he needed a new carb and couldn't afford one. The holes of the old single barrel with a touch of a file fit right on. Even the linkage fits without modification. Just remove the ball connector at the nut and put it on the Rochester throttle arm and you are in business. Hot rod stores sell a manual choke kit if you want to retain the old system and volla a great carb at little cost. Dave VE4PN From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Sun Jun 5 22:20:08 1994 Date: Sun, 5 Jun 1994 22:02:40 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: LR spring cleaning? To: "T.F. Mills" , lro@stratus.com In-Reply-To: Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Status: RO You asked about the shock absorbers for your machine. U.S. replacements are Gabriel Gas Ryder Ltd Shocks for your machine. The numbers are G63494 and G63299. The longer ones go on the back. I phoned Monroe in the U.S. and they said they didn't list shocks for Land Rover. We paid $53.00 Canadian each in Selkirk Manitoba. My price in Selkirk for a complete spring rebuild was quoted at $100 each. If anyone is looking for low priced hubs they are available from J.C Whitney in the U.S. list price $78.97 a pair. They are on page 117 of their catalog. The catalog is free at 1-312-431-6102. They are the largest parts dealer mail order in the U.S. They stock over 65,000 items for guys like us. I used to write a colum about Land Rover save money tips, so from time to time I will include a tid-bit or two for the net. I found a great source of rubber door seal at a local jobber in Winnipeg. It is also available at J.C. Whitney and 1/2 price of genuine Land Rover. Bye for now Dave VE4PN From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Jun 6 02:26:56 1994 Via: uk.ac.edinburgh.castle; Mon, 6 Jun 1994 08:15:50 +0100 From: "Ian Stuart, (Tel: 6205)" Organization: Vet-lab,The Univ of Edinburgh To: lro@stratus.com Date: Mon, 6 Jun 1994 08:15:38 +0000 Subject: LandRovers on Film... Priority: normal Status: RO Morning all! Last night I went out to see "4 Weddings and a Funeral" (BTW -- it's a very funny film). One of the main characters has a SWB IIA [petrol] as their main transport. ----** Ian Stuart +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. #======================================================================# Land Rover: A work-horse that was meant to survive the charge of an adult bull rhino and be field-stripped in the jungle with essentially a screwdriver and a crescent wrench. From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Jun 6 05:25:06 1994 From: marcus@dcs.qmw.ac.uk Subject: Re: Nigel update To: dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com (Russell G. Dushin) Date: Mon, 6 Jun 1994 11:11:29 +0000 (BST) Cc: lro@stratus.com In-Reply-To: <199406022134.RAA07752@transfer.stratus.com> from "Russell G. Dushin" at Jun 2, 94 05:36:06 pm Content-Type: text Content-Length: 261 Status: RO > and assorted bits (esp gear oil) needed for the job. The resurfacing > job looked just great, but they failed to remove my locator studs > and just ground them *both* off. How's about that, Marcus?? The word 'cowboys' springs readily to mind... Marcus. From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Jun 6 09:11:13 1994 From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Re: Nigel update To: marcus@dcs.qmw.ac.uk Date: Mon, 6 Jun 94 10:01:41 EDT Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com In-Reply-To: <9406061011.AA00352@it040.dcs.qmw.ac.uk>; from "marcus@dcs.qmw.ac.uk" at Jun 6, 94 11:11 am Mailer: Elm [revision: 66.36.1.1] Status: RO > > > > and assorted bits (esp gear oil) needed for the job. The resurfacing > > job looked just great, but they failed to remove my locator studs > > and just ground them *both* off. How's about that, Marcus?? > > The word 'cowboys' springs readily to mind... > > Marcus. > The word "mellonhead" sprung to mine. rd/nige (all fixed!) From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Jun 6 13:24:31 1994 From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Date: 7 Jun 94 04:37:17 GMT To: land-rover-owner@stratus.com Message-Service: mail Phone: 201-564-2073 Subject: Door Seals Content-Type: Text Status: RO David writes: >> I found a great source of rubber door seal at a local jobber in Winnipeg. It is also available at J.C. Whitney and 1/2 price of genuine Land Rover. Bye for now Dave VE4PN >> David, Could you give us more details on the door seal material? Is it similar to the original or is it the soft type like ABP sells (kind of like rubber macaroni with a flat spot on one side)? Part # (J.C. Whitney)? Can it be riveted on or do you have to use weatherstrip adhesive? How do you like it? Thanks, Bill Maloney From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Jun 6 16:49:57 1994 Date: Mon, 6 Jun 94 14:39:43 PDT From: bellas@gamma.tti.com (Bellas) To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Subject: Tailgate on a 109 SW Cc: bellas@gamma.tti.com Status: RO Hi gang, I am not on the list anymore but thought you could answer a question for me. is it possible to replace the swing out door on the back of a 109 SW with a tailgate (in combination with ??? for the upper half). I am thinking again on how the 109 can serve double duty as a light pickup. I already have the roof rack solved, now if I had a tailgate/hatchback rather than the door I would have it made. This also means that money that was set aside to replace my pickup could go to the restoration. Thanks for any info. Since I am not on the list email is prefered or at least cc me directly, thanks again. -Pete- * Pete Bellas "Cogito ergo spud" * * Citicorp/TTI I think therefore I yam. * * Santa Monica, CA * * bellas@gamma.tti.com * From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Jun 6 18:55:58 1994 Date: Mon, 6 Jun 1994 18:33:00 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: Door Seals To: maloney Cc: land-rover-owner@stratus.com In-Reply-To: <199406061813.OAA17404@transfer.stratus.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Status: RO The material I purchased was profiled so that it fit onto the out side edge of the aluminum on both the top and the main body members of the Land Rover. The advantage of this material was that it already has adhisive on it so all you do is cut it to length and then pound it on with a rubber mallet. It is so good, I decided not to order the original stuff I had planned. I have one door with original Land Rover (new) and the other door with my local purchased stuff and I rate the local stuff 150% over the original. As you know, the original needs pop rivits to put it on and it doesn't seem to fill the voids. If I am in the city in the next couple of weeks I will get the order number and address of the stuff. They provide a 2-3 inch sample when you go in. And no, I didn't see the same profile in J.C. Whitney. The stuff here has like teeth on the back with the pre applied glue so it sticks like flint. Whith our temperatures, we really need good wheather strip. By the way, I found that foam insulation tape with the slippery facing fit nicely between the sliding windows on my 88. the trick is to install it, and then take a very new razor blade and slip it down the face between the two windows to trim the material to the right thickness. If you don't do this, when the tape gets some dust in it, it peels away when you slide the window. After cutting, it slides very well. Another cold weather tip, is to use snow mobile blick vinyl when recovering seats and door panels. This material does not crack in cold weather and stands up better than regular Nuggihide (sp?). I re-surfaced the roof of my hard top with new material and it looks great. I would suggest that only the hardy try it because it is a very tricky job. Try glueing new material over the old stuff so you don't have to get involved with all the wewing etc. It was a very tough job and one I would rate as less satisfying than doing an axle seal etc. I have also found that a squirt of clear silicone arond the mechinism for selecting Hi-LOw stops the rattles they all seem to have. It doesn't interfere with the working if you don't overdoo it and it helps cut noise. Another tip for those looking for a nice cheap carpet for your beast. I was able to get all the carpet I could remove from an auto wrecker for $5.00. The best cars are the Pinto Hatchbacks. The carpets are large enough to do the whole vehicle. I glued the carpet to the seat box and it looks like a factory job, but one of our members suggested velcro so you could take it off if you were going to wade the vehicle. Cheers Dave VE4PN From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Jun 6 19:04:52 1994 Date: Mon, 6 Jun 1994 18:46:16 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: Tailgate on a 109 SW To: Bellas Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com, bellas@gamma.tti.com In-Reply-To: <9406062139.AA01099@gamma.tti.com> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Status: RO I also made my stationwagon into a truck body style when using the hardtop. If you have the two eyes on the back frame for the tailgate you are laughing. just get an ordinary tailgate and it slides into the grommets. You will have to provide a system for holding tailgate up. On mine I took stainless bolts and hardware about 3/4 inch and drilled the two galvinized plates which line up with the two circular tailgate retaining pieces on the tailgate, and then I filed the nuts round so they would go through the two retaining pieces on the tailgate. I drilled the bolts and use "D" rings to retain the tailgate in the upright position. I used aircraft cable with clinched end eyes to replace what used to be chains on tailgates in the old days. The advantave is no rattle when you drive and they look cleaner. They are just as strong. Princess Auto in Winnipeg had some great surplice ones for .75 each with the eyes etc attached. Check our your army surplice store they might have the same thing. Cheers Dave VE4PN From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Mon Jun 6 23:02:59 1994 From: tomills@diana.cair.du.edu (T.F. Mills) Subject: LR in TV commercials To: lro@stratus.com Date: Mon, 6 Jun 1994 21:55:18 -0600 (MDT) Content-Type: text Content-Length: 526 Status: RO I was watching "Lovejoy" tonight (A&E cable), and saw TWO MicroLink commercials, both using Rovers. One puts Range Rover in a favorable light with a suspicious close-up of the name on the bonnet. The other unflattering one features a man calling (cellular) for help from his IIA stuck in ankle-deep water! Two Rovers cannot be a coincidence, but ankle-deep water? Really! T. F. Mills tomills@diana.cair.du.edu University of Denver Library 2150 E. Evans Ave. Denver CO 80208 USA From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Jun 7 01:36:21 1994 From: tomills@diana.cair.du.edu (T.F. Mills) Subject: LR in TV commercials -- correction To: lro@stratus.com Date: Tue, 7 Jun 1994 00:30:12 -0600 (MDT) Content-Type: text Content-Length: 270 Status: RO umm... that was MOBILINK, not MicroLink -- a very forgettable name, considering their misuse of the venerable Land Rover. T. F. Mills tomills@diana.cair.du.edu University of Denver Library 2150 E. Evans Ave. Denver CO 80208 USA From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Jun 7 02:22:11 1994 From: tomills@diana.cair.du.edu (T.F. Mills) Subject: LR in MobiLink commercial --another correction To: lro@stratus.com Date: Tue, 7 Jun 1994 01:15:43 -0600 (MDT) Content-Type: text Content-Length: 296 Status: RO Upon seeing the MobiLink commercial a second time, maybe the Land Rover wasn't stuck. Maybe the driver was simply lost. Yeah, that's a lot better. T. F. Mills tomills@diana.cair.du.edu University of Denver Library 2150 E. Evans Ave. Denver CO 80208 USA From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Jun 7 04:05:45 1994 X-Authentication-Warning: tornadic.sw.stratus.com: Host localhost.stratus.com didn't use HELO protocol To: lro@team.net Cc: bellas@gamma.tti.com Subject: check it out - Date: Tue, 07 Jun 94 04:54:28 -0400 From: William Caloccia Status: RO ------- Forwarded Message Return-Path: lro-digest-owner@uk.stratus.com Date: Tue, 7 Jun 1994 07:55:18 +0100 From: owner-lro-digest@uk.stratus.com Message-Id: <199406070655.HAA10416@chunnel.uk.stratus.com> To: LRO-Digest@uk.stratus.com Subject: The Land Rover Owner Digest Reply-To: Land-Rover-Owner@Team.Net Errors-To: car-list-rejects@Team.Net X-List-Admin-to: land-rover-owner-request@Team.Net X-Digest-Admin-to: MajorDomo@chunnel.uk.stratus.com X-Comment: Not affiliated with the magazine of similar name. Distribution: world Organization: Team.Net Precedence: bulk Land Rover Owner Digest: 1 caloccia@Team.Net Tue Jun 6 00:43 35/1359 LRO DIGEST: Coming Soon to a VDU near you ! 2 umplace@CC.UManitoba.CA Mon Jun 6 04:22 35/2132 Re: LR spring cleaning? 3 IAN@lab0.vet.edinburgh.ac.uk Mon Jun 6 08:28 34/1714 LandRovers on Film... 4 dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca Mon Jun 6 10:03 50/2360 LR spring cleaning? 5 marcus@dcs.qmw.ac.uk Mon Jun 6 11:26 28/1445 Re: Nigel update 6 dushinrg@pr.cyanamid.com Mon Jun 6 15:11 148/7158 Re: Nigel update 7 umplace@CC.UManitoba.CA Tue Jun 7 00:48 37/2167 Re: Tailgate on a 109 SW 8 tomills@diana.cair.du.edu Tue Jun 7 04:51 27/1401 LR in TV commercials 9 tomills@diana.cair.du.edu Tue Jun 7 07:25 23/1159 LR in TV commercials -- c -----------land-rover-owner-digest-------- Date: Tue, 6 Jun 1994 00:43:28 +0100 From: Bill Caloccia Message-Id: <199406062343.AAA10316@chunnel.uk.stratus.com> Subject: LRO-DIGEST: Coming Soon to a VDU near you Yes, this long awaited project is nearing the end of the speedy development cycle. In addition to once-per day compilations of messages, in a format that is easy to follow, the digest version will truely be pre-digested by awk scripts. (1) header added with list of users/subjects (ala /usr/ucb/mail -H) (2) digested messages (a) unthoughtfully posted long included messages will be gutted (with annotations) (b) top ten unwanted control characters will be converted to harmless ascii representations (c) normal headers will be reduced to 3 or 4 lines. (3) all subscriptions will be handled by Majordomo, the perl-script UNIX cousin of ListServ All this just so Biff will bark less; you'll not have to sort out your lro mail to get to your work mail, or to print it out for friends. Anyone who chooses to be a white mouse and participate in these trials while it is under development, simply send mail to: lro-digest-request@chunnel.uk.stratus.com and MajorDomo will help you get your subscription sorted out. Cheers, - Bill caloccia@stratus.com Stratus Computer Ltd Central House, Lampton Road Hounslow, Middlesex, TW3 1HY, U.K. tele: +44 81 570 4433 fax: +44 81 569 4755 -----------land-rover-owner-digest-------- Date: Sun, 5 Jun 1994 22:02:40 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: LR spring cleaning? In-Reply-To: Message-Id: You asked about the shock absorbers for your machine. U.S. replacements are Gabriel Gas Ryder Ltd Shocks for your machine. The numbers are G63494 and G63299. The longer ones go on the back. I phoned Monroe in the U.S. and they said they didn't list shocks for Land Rover. We paid $53.00 Canadian each in Selkirk Manitoba. My price in Selkirk for a complete spring rebuild was quoted at $100 each. If anyone is looking for low priced hubs they are available from J.C Whitney in the U.S. list price $78.97 a pair. They are on page 117 of their catalog. The catalog is free at 1-312-431-6102. They are the largest parts dealer mail order in the U.S. They stock over 65,000 items for guys like us. I used to write a colum about Land Rover save money tips, so from time to time I will include a tid-bit or two for the net. I found a great source of rubber door seal at a local jobber in Winnipeg. It is also available at J.C. Whitney and 1/2 price of genuine Land Rover. Bye for now Dave VE4PN -----------land-rover-owner-digest-------- From: "Ian Stuart, (Tel: 6205)" Date: Mon, 6 Jun 1994 08:15:38 +0000 Subject: LandRovers on Film... Morning all! Last night I went out to see "4 Weddings and a Funeral" (BTW -- it's a very funny film). One of the main characters has a SWB IIA [petrol] as their main transport. ----** Ian Stuart +44 31 650 6205 Royal (Dick) School of Veterinary Studies, Edinburgh University. #======================================================================# Land Rover: A work-horse that was meant to survive the charge of an adult bull rhino and be field-stripped in the jungle with essentially a screwdriver and a crescent wrench. -----------land-rover-owner-digest-------- Subject: LR spring cleaning? From: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca (dixon kenner) Reply-To: dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca Message-Id: <9kFFNc1w165w@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca> Date: Sun, 5 Jun 1994 00:01:31 -0400 tomills@diana.cair.du.edu (T.F. Mills) writes: > Is it acceptable to have a local spring specialist do the work, > including building new sets when the old ones can't be re-arched. One [ truncated by lro-digester (was 6 lines)] > and put them back on myself. These prices are far more attractive > than RN prices for new springs, but am I being pound foolish? I don't know how the Pound is doing against the US dollar these days, but new springs from the UK go for about $60 Canadian, or there abouts. The US dollar is worth $1.30+ Canadian. Shipping is the killer, but it is an option for new springs. > Are there any any other parts besides the road springs that I can > almost certainly count on needing to replace -- like U bolts? U-bolts are probably needed, possibly the main bolts through the shackles. They can be a real challenge to get off and at the cost of a new set, it is probably worth it. Rgds, Dixon - -- dixon kenner, dixon@fourfold.ocunix.on.ca FourFold Symmetry, Nepean, Ontario, Canada -----------land-rover-owner-digest-------- From: marcus@dcs.qmw.ac.uk Message-Id: <9406061011.AA00352@it040.dcs.qmw.ac.uk> Subject: Re: Nigel update Date: Mon, 6 Jun 1994 11:11:29 +0000 (BST) In-Reply-To: <199406022134.RAA07752@transfer.stratus.com> from "Russell G. Dushin" at Jun 2, 94 05:36:06 pm > and assorted bits (esp gear oil) needed for the job. The resurfacing > job looked just great, but they failed to remove my locator studs > and just ground them *both* off. How's about that, Marcus?? The word 'cowboys' springs readily to mind... Marcus. -----------land-rover-owner-digest-------- Message-Id: <199406061400.KAA28538@transfer.stratus.com> From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Re: Nigel update Date: Mon, 6 Jun 94 10:01:41 EDT In-Reply-To: <9406061011.AA00352@it040.dcs.qmw.ac.uk>; from "marcus@dcs.qmw.ac.uk" at Jun 6, 94 11:11 am > > and assorted bits (esp gear oil) needed for the job. The resurfacing > > job looked just great, but they failed to remove my locator studs [ truncated by lro-digester (was 10 lines)] > The word 'cowboys' springs readily to mind... > Marcus. The word "mellonhead" sprung to mine. rd/nige (all fixed!) -----------land-rover-owner-digest-------- Message-Id: <199406061813.OAA17404@transfer.stratus.com> From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Date: 7 Jun 94 04:37:17 GMT Subject: Door Seals David writes: none I found a great source of rubber door seal at a local jobber in Winnipeg. It is also available at J.C. Whitney and 1/2 price of genuine Land Rover. Bye for now Dave VE4PN none David, Could you give us more details on the door seal material? Is it similar to the original or is it the soft type like ABP sells (kind of like rubber macaroni with a flat spot on one side)? Part # (J.C. Whitney)? Can it be riveted on or do you have to use weatherstrip adhesive? How do you like it? Thanks, Bill Maloney -----------land-rover-owner-digest-------- Date: Mon, 6 Jun 94 14:39:43 PDT From: bellas@gamma.tti.com (Bellas) Message-Id: <9406062139.AA01099@gamma.tti.com> Subject: Tailgate on a 109 SW Hi gang, I am not on the list anymore but thought you could answer a question for me. is it possible to replace the swing out door on the back of a 109 SW with a tailgate (in combination with ??? for the upper half). I am thinking again on how the 109 can serve double duty as a light pickup. I already have the roof rack solved, now if I had a tailgate/hatchback rather than the door I would have it made. This also means that money that was set aside to replace my pickup could go to the restoration. Thanks for any info. Since I am not on the list email is prefered or at least cc me directly, thanks again. -Pete- * Pete Bellas "Cogito ergo spud" * * Citicorp/TTI I think therefore I yam. * * Santa Monica, CA * * bellas@gamma.tti.com * -----------land-rover-owner-digest-------- Date: Mon, 6 Jun 1994 18:33:00 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: Door Seals In-Reply-To: <199406061813.OAA17404@transfer.stratus.com> Message-Id: The material I purchased was profiled so that it fit onto the out side edge of the aluminum on both the top and the main body members of the Land Rover. The advantage of this material was that it already has adhisive on it so all you do is cut it to length and then pound it on with a rubber mallet. It is so good, I decided not to order the original stuff I had planned. I have one door with original Land Rover (new) and the other door with my local purchased stuff and I rate the local stuff 150% over the original. As you know, the original needs pop rivits to put it on and it doesn't seem to fill the voids. If I am in the city in the next couple of weeks I will get the order number and address of the stuff. They provide a 2-3 inch sample when you go in. And no, I didn't see the same profile in J.C. Whitney. The stuff here has like teeth on the back with the pre applied glue so it sticks like flint. Whith our temperatures, we really need good wheather strip. By the way, I found that foam insulation tape with the slippery facing fit nicely between the sliding windows on my 88. the trick is to install it, and then take a very new razor blade and slip it down the face between the two windows to trim the material to the right thickness. If you don't do this, when the tape gets some dust in it, it peels away when you slide the window. After cutting, it slides very well. Another cold weather tip, is to use snow mobile blick vinyl when recovering seats and door panels. This material does not crack in cold weather and stands up better than regular Nuggihide (sp?). I re-surfaced the roof of my hard top with new material and it looks great. I would suggest that only the hardy try it because it is a very tricky job. Try glueing new material over the old stuff so you don't have to get involved with all the wewing etc. It was a very tough job and one I would rate as less satisfying than doing an axle seal etc. I have also found that a squirt of clear silicone arond the mechinism for selecting Hi-LOw stops the rattles they all seem to have. It doesn't interfere with the working if you don't overdoo it and it helps cut noise. Another tip for those looking for a nice cheap carpet for your beast. I was able to get all the carpet I could remove from an auto wrecker for $5.00. The best cars are the Pinto Hatchbacks. The carpets are large enough to do the whole vehicle. I glued the carpet to the seat box and it looks like a factory job, but one of our members suggested velcro so you could take it off if you were going to wade the vehicle. Cheers Dave VE4PN -----------land-rover-owner-digest-------- Date: Mon, 6 Jun 1994 18:46:16 -0500 (CDT) From: David John Place Subject: Re: Tailgate on a 109 SW In-Reply-To: <9406062139.AA01099@gamma.tti.com> Message-Id: I also made my stationwagon into a truck body style when using the hardtop. If you have the two eyes on the back frame for the tailgate you are laughing. just get an ordinary tailgate and it slides into the grommets. You will have to provide a system for holding tailgate up. On mine I took stainless bolts and hardware about 3/4 inch and drilled the two galvinized plates which line up with the two circular tailgate retaining pieces on the tailgate, and then I filed the nuts round so they would go through the two retaining pieces on the tailgate. I drilled the bolts and use "D" rings to retain the tailgate in the upright position. I used aircraft cable with clinched end eyes to replace what used to be chains on tailgates in the old days. The advantave is no rattle when you drive and they look cleaner. They are just as strong. Princess Auto in Winnipeg had some great surplice ones for .75 each with the eyes etc attached. Check our your army surplice store they might have the same thing. Cheers Dave VE4PN -----------land-rover-owner-digest-------- From: tomills@diana.cair.du.edu (T.F. Mills) Message-Id: <9406070355.AA08920@diana.cair.du.edu> Subject: LR in TV commercials Date: Mon, 6 Jun 1994 21:55:18 -0600 (MDT) I was watching "Lovejoy" tonight (A&E cable), and saw TWO MicroLink commercials, both using Rovers. One puts Range Rover in a favorable light with a suspicious close-up of the name on the bonnet. The other unflattering one features a man calling (cellular) for help from his IIA stuck in ankle-deep water! Two Rovers cannot be a coincidence, but ankle-deep water? Really! T. F. Mills tomills@diana.cair.du.edu University of Denver Library 2150 E. Evans Ave. Denver CO 80208 USA -----------land-rover-owner-digest-------- From: tomills@diana.cair.du.edu (T.F. Mills) Message-Id: <9406070630.AA21096@diana.cair.du.edu> Subject: LR in TV commercials -- correction Date: Tue, 7 Jun 1994 00:30:12 -0600 (MDT) umm... that was MOBILINK, not MicroLink -- a very forgettable name, considering their misuse of the venerable Land Rover. T. F. Mills tomills@diana.cair.du.edu University of Denver Library 2150 E. Evans Ave. Denver CO 80208 USA END OF LAND ROVER OWNER DIGEST ------- End of Forwarded Message From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Jun 7 06:42:59 1994 From: maloney@wings.attmail.com (maloney) Date: 7 Jun 94 23:23:28 GMT To: land-rover-owner@stratus.com Message-Service: mail Phone: 201-564-2073 Subject: Shocks Content-Type: Text Status: RO T. F. Mills asked: >> Should I also be replacing the shocks at the same time? Any recommended cheap American brands? (Somebody suggested Sears for $10 each) >> T. F., Right before the Sears catalog stores closed I ordered a set of Rancho RS 5000 gas shocks. The Rancho part numbers for an 88 are 5163 and 5169. The invoice doesn't say which is front or back but the longer should go on the back. Sears has reopened their automotive catalog (more limited than it used to be) and is listing Rancho shocks again but no price is given. You could call Rancho direct (310-630-0700) or try one of the off road magazines, choose the ad with the lowest price ($34-$36 last time I looked), and have them shipped. I haven't installed mine yet but will soon as my backordered springs from RN arrived yesterday. Almost forgot, the Rancho shocks have a lifetime warranty, so save your invoice. Bill Maloney maloney@wings.attmail.com From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Jun 7 10:10:56 1994 From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: Re: check it out - To: caloccia@sw.stratus.com (William Caloccia) Date: Tue, 7 Jun 94 11:02:23 EDT Cc: lro@transfer.stratus.com In-Reply-To: <199406070854.EAA26835@tornadic.sw.stratus.com>; from "William Caloccia" at Jun 07, 94 4:54 am Mailer: Elm [revision: 66.36.1.1] Status: RO Bill G.- V. nice. Especially useful for those that get mail from other groups. I am tempted to be a white mouse, but wonder if the one-day lag time in the postings will get to me (it is nice to get that nearly instantaneous response sometimes, especially when it comes from either side of the pond at the same time). Can we be white mice and still get the undigested form? BTW, brother fred (fadushin@top.cis.syr.edu) has written a script (for his mailer, anyway) that sorts lro mail from his other stuff and writes it to a file. Every so often he prints it out and takes it to his "library" or his "reading room". In the past he has volunteered to send it on to anyone who wants it (it'll only work for those who have the same mailer as he) so send him a request if you do. (He is out of town for a week or so, so be patient.) cheers, rd/nige From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Jun 7 10:30:49 1994 X-Authentication-Warning: tornadic.sw.stratus.com: Host localhost.stratus.com didn't use HELO protocol To: "Russell G. Dushin" Cc: lro@stratus.com Subject: Re: check it out - In-Reply-To: Your message of "Tue, 07 Jun 94 11:02:23 EDT." <199406071501.LAA27326@transfer.stratus.com> Date: Tue, 07 Jun 94 11:18:16 -0400 From: William Caloccia Status: RO > I am tempted to be a white mouse, but wonder > if the one-day lag time in the postings will get to me (it .... > the same time). Can we be white mice and still get the > undigested form? Joining the Digest will not remove you from the Mailing List. (and as usual, even if you wrote me, wanting to leave the mailing list, you'd probably have to wait a few days 'til I got about to editing the list). The wonderful thing for me is I don't actually have to manipulate the Digest List (and if all goes well, I'll set up LRO in the same way) for adds and deletes (unless you do something out of the ordinary). The other things digests tend to do is lower the amount of noise, and promote people sending in one message with multiple comments. So, take it for a test drive - email to lro-digest-request@chunnel.uk.stratus.com -- Bill From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Jun 7 12:30:14 1994 Date: Tue, 7 Jun 94 13:21:42 -0400 From: "Russell G. Dushin" Subject: one down... Apparently-To: lro@transfer.stratus.com Status: RO Folks- Nigel's clutch works like a champ. The judder problem is history. Thanks to all who offerred advice, and to those that didn't but meditated on the subject while thinking nice thoughts about that little Nige fellow. Nigel's second persistant problem is one of front wheel wobble. When Nigel hits a bump at just the right speed the steering wheel does the equivalent of a "tank slapper" for those of you well versed in motorcycle lingo. This problem occurs most easily while under "no-load" conditions (not accellerating nor decellerating; just coasting along). Awhile back this problem was addressed........removal of several shims in the swivel pin housing and an alignment pretty much took care of it, but it has gradually returned. The last time I had the steering arms out of the swivel pin housing I noticed that the splines that fit into the cones were a tad buggered up. (Note: this is an old style cone-and-spring setup, with a pendant-i.e. hanging-track rod and the steering arms on top of the swivel pin housings.) Surely, itsa time for replacement, but the steering arms are NLA, and the cone$ and $pring$ ain't cheap. So, taking Mike Rooth's advice of long ago, I've decided to go with Railco bushes. A kit is available from RN ($145.50 US) that apparently includes the bushes, a replacement for my buggered spline (that I'll have to press out of my steering arms and press the new one in), and all the required lock tabs and gaskets. For good measure, I ordered new lower bearings seals (which were replaced just last year but suffered damage in a tank slapper) as well. This kit comes *sans* instructions, and only Charlie (who was tied up) at RN has apparently done the conversion from cones to railco. So, question of the day: anyone done this conversion on the old style cone and spring/pendant track rod setup? Comments or suggestions? Also, my track rod is *slightly* tweeked.......could this make a difference? Should I attempt to straighten it (with heat and persuasion) or just buy new ($60 or so)? Thanks again in advance, rd/nigel From car-list-rejects@transfer.stratus.com Tue Jun 7 13:12:55 1994 Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/